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Old 01-16-2018, 11:27 PM   #1
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Best fix for common problem of water entry at bumper box

Seems a popular complaint is the water build up where bumper box meets skin. Wreaks lots of havoc in form of corrosion on skins and rear holding plate. Have read through many threads here and really like the idea posed by vhord in this thread :

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f305...tml#post664972

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Since am unable to PM him and that thread is quite old, how did he get that 90 degree angled piece of aluminum to bend to match the curve on the shell?
Is this something the DIYer can do?
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Old 01-17-2018, 05:39 AM   #2
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That is how I fixed the gap on the rear of my 68 TW. I made a cardboard template. Using a compass to trace the curve on the cardboard. Cut it out and taped it to a straight piece of cardboard to make a perfect template for the curves. I then marked the aluminum using the template. I did not put a flange on the aluminum, just left it flat. I cut mine with aviation shears and then installed it with a couple of rivets into the top of the bumper and bed of vulkem in the gap on the tailer. I took great care in getting the fit as perfect as I could so there were no gaps. The edge was bedding in vulkem and then I ran a bead on top of the plate and smoothed it. I do need to reseal because after 8 years as there are a few small cracks beginning to show in the seal but no leaks that I have detected.
After you fix it, make sure you have covered storage. That is the key to keeping all your hard work looking good. I let mine sit outside for several years and that was a mistake considering all the work I put into it.
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Old 01-17-2018, 08:05 AM   #3
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I'm about to do the same thing on my trailer. Yes, it can be done by a DIY-er. There is something called a shrinker/stretcher that you can get from Harbor Freight (I haven't yet bought mine to try it). The post you referenced talks about using that tool. I think his picture is a bit deceiving and I suspect it is actually two pieces. There is likely a piece of angled/curved underneath a wider plate on top. I don't think you can stretch something as wide as that entire plate. @lifeisriveting on instagram did the same thing and explained it a bit for me as well.
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Old 01-17-2018, 10:20 AM   #4
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Cut 2 matching pieces of plywood with the negative matching curve. Test them by setting them against the rear of your floor. Once the curves are a good match, clamp a piece of aluminum between them with an extra inch extending out from the curve. Hammer the aluminum lip over and it will curve to match the arc at the sides. It requires several clamps to hold the plywood templates together during hammering.
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Old 01-17-2018, 11:56 PM   #5
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MattoKo. didn't think that could have been 2 pieces and the trouble we were having was with that wide top piece so maybe you are right. looked at those shrinker/stretchers from Harbor Freight too but thank will try HiHoAgRVs suggestion first. We hammered over single piece of reverse curved ply without luck
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Old 01-18-2018, 06:45 AM   #6
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Get rid of the plate. It works the trailer now sheds water. Yes you can flash around it but it will never be as maintenance free as not plate at all. This is what I did. No leaks at the back in 5+ yrs since the repair.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f476...fun-91686.html

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Old 01-18-2018, 07:27 PM   #7
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Like Perry says you can get rid of the plate, but then you change the whole bumper storage design and appearance. I didnít want to do this. The leak at this joint ended up rotting out the back 10Ē of my plywood floor. I polyurethaned the replacement flooring and installed a new bumper cover. Any way you look at it you are going to need to caulk the bumper cover/shell joint and keep an eye on this caulked joint over time since you know this is a problem area. I used Trempro 635 caulking and I have confidence that this will hold up over time. Here is a photo of the finished product.

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Old 01-18-2018, 08:19 PM   #8
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Once you finish and I need to post of photo of what it looks like now. It looks the same as it did. Same lid and everything but there is a 1 inch slot between the separate box and the trailer. Also that part that makes the bottom of the box does not funnel water under the trailer. I made a separate box that is not connected to the trailer skin. You have to look hard to tell it is not factory.

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Old 01-18-2018, 11:53 PM   #9
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Failed attempt #2

Hammering over 2 pieces of ply did not work. Probably lack of experience. Going to try the shrinker/stretcher from Harbor freight for attempt #3.

Perry, looked at your thread. Eliminating box certainly would eliminate water build up....but have been looking forward to using the bumper box for storage of fishing poles since no longer will have a stinky slinky or waste valve there!
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Old 01-19-2018, 04:36 PM   #10
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Maybe this will help

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...tml#post979845
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Old 01-19-2018, 07:44 PM   #11
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I still put the hose in mine and there is just enough room. I thought of extending the frame a few inches but I made it work with what I had. The hose has it's own box now. Some have hung pipes under the trailer to store the hose in that you could use for rods or just use the box. No matter how much epoxy or urethane whatever you put on the wood as soon as you put a screw through it the seal is broken. You still have corrosion issues even if the floor is impervious to water. I have already had the trailer 5yrs and it may stay in the family. There are things I would have done different but it does not leak. The lower plate that makes the bottom skin no one talks about. It is as big of a problem as the top plate. The bottom plate funnels water between the belly skin and the frame and also helps soak the stinky pink insulation that really accelerates corrosion.

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Originally Posted by Jeremy9107 View Post
Hammering over 2 pieces of ply did not work. Probably lack of experience. Going to try the shrinker/stretcher from Harbor freight for attempt #3.

Perry, looked at your thread. Eliminating box certainly would eliminate water build up....but have been looking forward to using the bumper box for storage of fishing poles since no longer will have a stinky slinky or waste valve there!
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Old 01-19-2018, 10:36 PM   #12
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HiHoAgRV. Amazing what a few pictures can do. NOW understand how that was done. Will attempt tomorrow with that method. Thanks.

Perry. Have design concept which only exists in brain currently but will relocate hose storage underneath frame like you mentioned but within belly pan (so not visible). Might also serve for pole storage.

Understand from reading other threads that allowing water escape is just as important as stopping water entrance. In regards to that bottom plate, could one just be sure there are drainage points, ie a hole hear or there? No pink insulation for this trailer ever again. And this Coosa floor theoretically will never rot. Still do not want water getting inside though.
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Old 01-20-2018, 07:37 AM   #13
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Yes put in some drains. Best to use some sort of screened vent to keep bugs out. I bolted the center section in using 1/4-20 bolts that were threaded into the frame. It works well and allows access to that area for inspection, maintenance and repair. I despise rivets in areas where you need to visit periodically.

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Old 01-23-2018, 05:01 PM   #14
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This is not just a problem with vintage AS. I just picked up my 2014 27FB Classic from Foley RV where I had to have damage to subfloor repaired due to massive leaks at bumper line. Fortunately, we caught and fixed it before delamination or rot in the 3/4" CDX subflooring.
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