What size aluminum for under belly?

[Bryanhu]

I have seen a few sizes in the threads and was wondering what was on the original? Is it .040 or smaller?

Also, I went to www.airpartsinc.com to try to get an idea of the cost for this. When I look at .040 it looks as though there are different types of aluminum for the exact same size. Example: ALCLAD 2024-0 ALCLAD $11.80 running foot or 5052 H32 @ $8.80 per running foot. Does anyone know the difference?

I read last night that some installed the under belly in sections, making it easier to "get the fit". I think that is what I am going to do, and use aluminum screws with sealant.

Got my custom black water tank from all-rite yesterday and what a nice job they did! Today, I am off to the sheet metal shop with what's left of my black water tank tray to get a new one made.

Sure wish it would cool off! These Texas summers make it a real challange to get anything done!

Thanks everyone for your comments and help!

Bryan

[74Argosy24MH]

This gives a quick description of common grades of aluminum. Alclad is for surface appearance, I would save my money underneath. I don't know what AS originally used, but wouldn't use anything heavier than .030 myself, it is a non structural cover. I have been getting 4x8 sheets of .040 for $50, check around locally because shipping can be a killer on large items.

I would also do some experimenting with aluminum screws before i settled on them. They break easily especially when going into steel. There is still going to be corrosion between the screw and the cover and steel. I have used a lot of stainless tek screws. They are one operation instead of two and the stainless should last pretty well.

John

[59toaster]

Tried to find a post that was from Phil&Sue I want to say. He put a mic on the belly pan and I want to say to was 032. I think the post may have been lost when the forums crashed a few months back.

You have me curious as well on the grades. I hope we can get a good answer on that.


As for doing the belly in sections. That is exacly how I plan to do it. The perimiter edge is riveted with the sides so my plan is to install the edge like factory up to the frame rails. Then do a front a rear center plates.

Here is where the problem will be.

There is not fastening points in the center. Factory the pan is pretty well just held on by the permiter fastenters. You could drill holes into the the bottom of the frame rail but my fear is that will help promote rust in the frame rails. I plan to weld a tab about every 4-6 and use that as a mounting point. Use the thin aluminum from frame to belt line and use a cheaper grade of 040 for the center where it's not visible and have it over lap the thinner perimiter peices.

Now the belly pan on mine is all flapt peices. The newer units and possibly your the corners were stamped for the shape. You may need to retain those sections from the original pan because you are not going to be able to duplicat the pressing unless you have full blown metal shop at your disposal with a english wheel or power hammer.

[amfab]

I thinkitmay be .025 based on this thread

http://www.airforums.com/forum...=&threadid=768

-Andrew

[Bryanhu]

Man, fast! Thanks again, everyone, for the feedback to help make this easier for me.

Bryan

[trailertrash]

That .032 is all they used. Its $28 a 4X8 sheet here in Miami.

Pop rivet that thing on- I've only done repairs- never a replacement, but have had luck with the long pops.

It was 123F in Blythe Cal., last week- does that help with the heat problem? I was working on a trailer out there in the middle of the desert...

[Bryanhu]

OK - 123 degrees! No more complaints!

Bryan