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Old 02-09-2013, 03:21 PM   #15
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I think your plug is a 2" pipe plug. There is no such thing as 1-3/4" NPT.

Basic Dimensions for NPT American National Taper Pipe Threads

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Old 02-09-2013, 06:54 PM   #16
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Ahh Peter...so it begins. Its all good. My trailer is a lot smaller, but I also use the ramp method when working under it and pulling off a wheel or two. Works well. Best of luck with the big boy.
Yup, Alan, all new stuff once again, darn I feel like such a noob.
Found a perfectly fitting plug at Lowes, item # 317773, $1.06 plus tax
So far so good, all is dry.
I don't understand why my waterpump doesn't shut off after the lines are pressurized. I have no leaks anywhere, but the pump keeps on humming. Maybe its not a on demand pump ?
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Old 02-09-2013, 06:56 PM   #17
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I think your plug is a 2" pipe plug. There is no such thing as 1-3/4" NPT.

Basic Dimensions for NPT American National Taper Pipe Threads

Perry
you are right, Perry, there is no 1 3/4", this one is actually 1 1/2 "
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Old 02-09-2013, 07:02 PM   #18
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Peter,
Make sure all air is purged of the lines and WH tank. If that doesn't make a difference it may be the pressure switch on the pump.
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Old 04-15-2013, 03:49 PM   #19
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I am new to Airstreams. I recently bought a 27' 1973 Overlander. Twin beds, rear bath. The exterior appears to be in very good condition. The only exterior work I hope to do is replace the axles. I would like to update the interior, new appliances, cabinets, etc. I would like to upgrade the potable water system - new pumps, accumulator tank, etc. Is there anyway to access the potable water tank and toilet holding tank without removing the belly pan? It seems removing the belly pan is complicated. Can I cut our the sub-flooring and get to the tanks. I plan on replacing the floor covering in any case. I am a boat builder so this type of work is not totally foreign, I see a lot of similarities.
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Old 04-15-2013, 05:42 PM   #20
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I am new to Airstreams. I recently bought a 27' 1973 Overlander. Twin beds, rear bath. The exterior appears to be in very good condition. The only exterior work I hope to do is replace the axles. I would like to update the interior, new appliances, cabinets, etc. I would like to upgrade the potable water system - new pumps, accumulator tank, etc. Is there anyway to access the potable water tank and toilet holding tank without removing the belly pan? It seems removing the belly pan is complicated. Can I cut our the sub-flooring and get to the tanks. I plan on replacing the floor covering in any case. I am a boat builder so this type of work is not totally foreign, I see a lot of similarities.
Your going to have to cut a HUGE hole.

That tank is 57 iches X 45 inches.

It can only be remove thru the underbelly.

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Old 10-31-2013, 05:11 PM   #21
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Thanks everyone!!
Ok Andy, I'll be right on it.
In the meantime, I followed everyone's advice and pulled her up on some boards. Before dropping the pan, I removed a 6"x6" inspection Plate and found a leaking drain plug. And amazingly enough, it was the plug itself that has hairlines cracks and not the thread or the drain. Now I need to find a 1 3/4 plug that matches this one.
Anyone swap out this plug with a fitting (I.e, shut-off) to make draining the tank easier?
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Old 10-31-2013, 07:22 PM   #22
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You can do that but usually there is a drain on the suction line. Also you don't want something sticking out the bottom of your pan that might get caught on something and rip a hole in your tank.

Perry
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