Underbelly Blues

[hex]

I am doing some pre-planning,(worrying). Before taking delivery.
One of my major concerns is 'plumbing leaks'. I keep hoping to find some extensive write-ups about UNDERBELLY work. A Underbelly 101 would be nice.

Seems there will be lots of that skin to remove ugh!. I suppose that the belly will be full of insulation. Probably glass type,ugh!. Probably wet and moldy, ugh!. Perhaps mouse/rat nests, ugh!. Maybe a Brown Recluse or two,UGH!.Who knows what else will fall down into my face and eyes! And all this to be worked from a clearance that OliveOil couldn't navigate on a creeper. Not to mention all the rivet drilling out from the looking-up position.And solder sweating from beneath is no party either!

Please tell me the Axles will not be mounted over a section of the under-skin causing there to be an unreachable area without removing the axles. Now if I could just flip the whole damn thing over and work looking down.

I suppose the piping will be running up near the plywood floor? Does it run under the cross-frame/outriggers or through them (heaven forbid).

Or (please let it be) All supply plumbing is above the floor and routed under cabinets , beds, etc. Where is the LP gas plumbing?

BTW Approx how many inches between the bellyskin and the bottom of the plywood floor?

I do have the repair manual, it devotes two short paragraphs to Bellyskin removal, and I can not tell from diagrams the exact level of the plumbing supply runs.

[tod47d]

Hex thanx I am proceeding with care in the knowledge that the tank is $435!!!! Have just done the whole underbelly thing and not reinstalled skin. By jacking up the front give yourself clearance, up front. By jacking down the front- clearance in the rear- be careful not to squash anything by leverage of these actions( almost got rid of my significant other that way AR>>AR>>AR just kidding) No plumbing uner there-just insulation and tailight wires BL<BK<BR<RD<GRN< and chargeer wires WH<LIGHT BLU and brake wires Y and WHT . Remove the propane lines first and be ready for hard to turn linkage mine was solid! took 2 wrenches. Also do one side at a time and leave skin under axle. Get wire brushes and rustoleum primer and protect that frame after you discard yukky insulation and the clothes you wore to get it out! Rivets drill out and mine had some hard to turn screws as well.
I also rigged up a scraper on an old fishing pole base to get rust out and paint into the frame channels up front.
I dont think I'm going to re install insulation as it traps moisture and we are moving to FLA . Wear eye protection as aluminum shavings don't show up on xrays and reallly annoy optomotric surgeons( this moron doesn't really need vision- he'll only cause more trouble) more later I'm wasting daylite

[Pahaska]

I suggest replacing the glass mat with the foil-bubble-foil that you can get at HD and most hardware stores. It has a good R-factor and is easy to install. I did my old Scamp with it after we spent a week at Cesars Palacein Las Vegas, in 110-degree weather, parked on hot concrete. Once I insulated, a lot less heat came up from below.

I used 3M spray adhesive and staples to install the insulation.

[BobbyW]

Water lines are inside the shell for freeze protection.

Gas lines are outside the belly pan for safety in case of a leak. The gas will disipate better.

No need to remove the belly unless you are repairing the floor.

-BobbyWright