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Old 01-21-2010, 08:39 PM   #81
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Since no one gave me any advise, I just went with two layers of Prodex insulation. I have the front section insulated & am waiting for my son to weld on the new outriggers as well as waiting for the weather to get above 50 degrees so I can POR-15 the rear frame. I have to go back to work pretty soon & need to get this baby done!
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Old 01-23-2010, 02:32 PM   #82
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Looks good Becky!

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Old 03-13-2010, 04:10 PM   #83
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Well, the weather finally broke & it's raining now. I've been rolling around in mud, but with a tarp on top, so it feels kinda weird. I'm not sure if this thing will ever be finished! Today I finished insulating the center section. My staples weren't long enough to go through everything, so I used those kind of nails with the plastic rings on them (they use them for plastic roofs). I finished Por-15 ing everything last week. WHAT A JOB!!! I discovered I have more leaks when the snow melted. Now I have to find them before I begin installing the banana wrap. But, I'm way ahead of myself. First I have to put the belly pan back on. My son welded on new outriggers for me!!!! Yeah! I have my plumbing torn apart too. Figured I'd cut a hole in there while I had everything up in the air. Had a slow leak in the black tank, so that's another project.
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Old 03-13-2010, 06:08 PM   #84
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Thumbs up NIce work

Just read this whole thread and WOW you are amazing.

keep up the pic's, and the tread going
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Old 04-05-2010, 08:57 PM   #85
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Well, here's some more progress. A picture of my beautiful outriggers--all Por-15'd & fixed. The picture came up last...

Next is the finished belly pan!!!! I hated the entire thing!! I hope I never have to do that ever again!!

Then, I had to start putting up my new banana wrap. I have one side about finished now. I have grunted more than I ever have in my life. I've spent more time on my back through this project than I ever have in my life (I'm not going to get dirty here!). I still have the street side to finish. Then I have to Vulkem everything below. At least it's coming along. I have to finish by June so I can camp! I'm glad I started this project last fall or I never would have finished in time to camp. I think this has been a much bigger job than polishing! And my polish job needs a touch up too! Oh, it will never end! But that's the beauty of an Airstream, right!?

Sorry, I don't know how to put the picture with the commentary in between....much too computer literate for me!
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Old 04-06-2010, 05:20 AM   #86
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Any leftover ProDex makes great sunscreens for the sunny side of trailer - and tow vehicle; cut generously for a good 'press' fit and it wears like iron. I've used it at -25° and 115°F and everywhere inbetween.

On seams (on the aluminum going back up ) it is recommended to have the top overlapping sheet laid on the forward side to keep water shedding at highway speeds (no hood scoop effect) & the only place to use vulkem it at the interface of the shell sides to keep water sheeting off without being captured in any seam gaps and directed into the pans (the logic being if one seals the belly pans too well any errant water will not be able to exit the trailer) ....

On the pneumatic nibbler - I have one and they are great but doing free-hand work is difficult, having a guide board clamped over the work piece makes it much easier to do smooth lines.
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Old 04-06-2010, 06:53 AM   #87
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Any leftover ProDex makes great sunscreens for the sunny side of trailer - and tow vehicle; cut generously for a good 'press' fit and it wears like iron. I've used it at -25° and 115°F and everywhere inbetween.

On seams (on the aluminum going back up ) it is recommended to have the top overlapping sheet laid on the forward side to keep water shedding at highway speeds (no hood scoop effect) & the only place to use vulkem it at the interface of the shell sides to keep water sheeting off without being captured in any seam gaps and directed into the pans (the logic being if one seals the belly pans too well any errant water will not be able to exit the trailer) ....

On the pneumatic nibbler - I have one and they are great but doing free-hand work is difficult, having a guide board clamped over the work piece makes it much easier to do smooth lines.
I read a lot about overlapping the sheet that exists on the trailer over the banana wrap. The reason I didn't do it that way is because there were numerous bucket rivets at the bottom of the body's aluminum. I put it back on as it originally was installed. I used lots of Vulkem over the top seam & rubbed it down the crack of the seam. I also used Vulkem over the top where the new rivets would penetrate (the ones from the re-installed belt line). When I first put the sheet on, I used a tube of Parbond and squirted it into the hole before installing the rivet. I will put a bead of Vulkem on the top of the belt line as well as putting a blob of it over each of the rivets that are showing in the belt line. I've invested in the Vulkem company!! If there weren't bucked rivets, I would have gone under. It just seemed too tuff for me to remove all of those bucked rivets.

As far as the pneumatic nibbler, I really didn't find it hard to control. It's a million times easier than using a snips, that I know for sure!

If anyone is doing a job like this, I would HIGHLY recommend getting a good pneumatic rivet gun. My kids gave me one for Christmas & it's great for my arthritic hands! It's as easy as sqeezing a small balloon!
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Old 04-06-2010, 07:39 AM   #88
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You've done smashingly well, it was not my intention to suggest disrupting the shell panels to force them to over-lap the wraps - what I should have said (for posterity & future readers at his point?) was 'start from the back and move forward to install the pan and wrap sheets to keep the lap joints passively shedding water'.

The nibbler is a lot of fun but when it comes to something forever visible having a guide sure eliminates a lot of stress! Here is a shot after cleaning up the edges of the shell to patch over the old battery locker, if you look closely here is where I learned that the nibbler cutter is not perfectly centered so it drifted from true and even bound up against the guide when I didn't turn the tool enough to keep it exactly aligned with the cut soooo one line drifts just enough to be visibly off..... (also noted for future readers?)

Plus: a shot of one of my homemade outriggers, with a patch of POR-15 that peeled from the heat of the weld...
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Old 04-06-2010, 04:46 PM   #89
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Originally Posted by Wabbiteer View Post
You've done smashingly well, it was not my intention to suggest disrupting the shell panels to force them to over-lap the wraps - what I should have said (for posterity & future readers at his point?) was 'start from the back and move forward to install the pan and wrap sheets to keep the lap joints passively shedding water'.

The nibbler is a lot of fun but when it comes to something forever visible having a guide sure eliminates a lot of stress! Here is a shot after cleaning up the edges of the shell to patch over the old battery locker, if you look closely here is where I learned that the nibbler cutter is not perfectly centered so it drifted from true and even bound up against the guide when I didn't turn the tool enough to keep it exactly aligned with the cut soooo one line drifts just enough to be visibly off..... (also noted for future readers?)

Plus: a shot of one of my homemade outriggers, with a patch of POR-15 that peeled from the heat of the weld...
I absolutely would use a pattern for a nibbler if I had something visible like a battery locker! All of my cuts will be well hidden by either the belt line or the be under the trailer!
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Old 04-19-2010, 08:48 PM   #90
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I finally can say that I'm no longer terrified of the belly pan. I have completed the task, including making new banana wrap, putting in new dump valves, and my DH made me a really nice spare tire carrier so I don't have to tote it in my vehicle anymore. The only thing I have left to do is Vulkem the lower rubrail and polish the trailer up for the summer. So, my friends, I'm finished with my trusty tarp that I've laid on for the last 5 months, weather permitting, and hope to never lay on one again! I hope all of you ladies are encouraged by this thread that you really can do what you set your mind to do!

1st pix is completed front belly pan with tire carrier & stabilizers installed
2nd & 3rd are new dump valves with valterra fittings on the end
4th close up of the nice tire carrier
5th & 6th streetside banana wrap completed
And lastly, my naughty pup Sheabea, who kept me company the whole time I was under the trailer & stole every tool she could get her mouth on!
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Old 04-19-2010, 09:23 PM   #91
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Amazing.. Great job Becky.

I have been following this thread for along time and thought you might be crazy for attempting it.. but have no fear you pulled it off! Its not something I ever want to do...

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Old 04-20-2010, 06:23 AM   #92
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Amazing.. Great job Becky.

I have been following this thread for along time and thought you might be crazy for attempting it.. but have no fear you pulled it off! Its not something I ever want to do...

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I might be crazy AFTER attempting it!
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Old 06-15-2010, 10:33 PM   #93
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We are tearing our Airstream apart, and I have to say, you are amazing! My husband has done a lot of the heavy work, and I'm not sure I could have done it alone. We've had our '72 Sovereign for about ten years, and did a bit of cosmetic work on it before, but we decided to tear it out mainly because it stinks. Much to our surprise, it was not only a mouse town, but seemed to be a mouse metropolis! It was totally disgusting. I pulled down the interior ceiling, and about five pounds of dried dog food, mouse poop, sunflower seeds, you name it, came down in a waterfall, thankfully not directly onto my head! I, too, have become increasingly obsessed with this, and I don't understand why! All day cleaning stuff, taking out rivets, making room for yet more stuff from the trailer; all night researching. I have the summer off, and this is my life now! Thanks for your posts and pictures, it's really encouraging!

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Old 08-28-2011, 08:27 AM   #94
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I just read this whole thread - I'm afraid that I'm in for the same thing.....thanks for documenting it - I'll be referring to it frequently~
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Old 08-29-2011, 06:11 AM   #95
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I just read this whole thread - I'm afraid that I'm in for the same thing.....thanks for documenting it - I'll be referring to it frequently~
No problem! You can do it....it's just a bit daunting at first!
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Old 02-02-2015, 01:05 PM   #96
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Great detail in here- Belly pan and insulation pictures are so helpful! Thanks Becky for emailing me!
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Old 08-13-2015, 04:31 PM   #97
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Getting mentally prepared to create a new bellypan, so going through as many threads as I can to see whatvI'm in for. Our 72 Tradewind is also gutted to the skin on the inside, so Ive been excavating insulation threads. There's quite a bit of Prodex talk in this thread, so I'll ask those who are using it if they are happy with it. From what I've been able to find in research, the R value has been GREATLY exagerated, and the product is prone to separation after only a couple of years (the foil separates from the "bubble wrap"). What say ye, good people?
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Old 08-13-2015, 05:07 PM   #98
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I used Prodex on the interior of my '72 Trade Wind. I am very happy with it so far. It significantly decreases the amount of heat transfer to the interior skin/walls. I think the issue with Prodex or any 'bubble type' insulation delaminating, is when it is exposed to direct sunlight. It is meant to be installed with a 1 inch air gap. I achieved this by cutting 1 inch strips of 1 inch thick foam board insulation and attaching them to the interior shell surface with Vulkem-type adhesive caulk. I then installed 1 - 2 layers of Prodex on top of the spacers and sealed it to the aluminum ribs with aluminum tape. I finished my insulation job last year....installed new 12v and 120v wiring and recently completed reinstalling all of the interior aluminum panels/walls. I am happy with it so far. I don't believe inside the protected space of the walls...with the 1 inch airspace...that delamination will be an issue anytime in the near future.

As for the belly.... I glued and screwed sheets of foil wrapped 1 inch thick foam board to the underside of the floor. Solid foam board will not retain water. My belly pan remains unfinished...so the insulation has been open to 2 Minnesota winters (hopefully it will be finished before another winter). It remains unaffected and by any weather exposure.
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Old 08-13-2015, 06:04 PM   #99
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I used the rigid foam board insulation under my subfloor also. I used 4" on the 86 Limited, and just 2" on the 66 Trade Wind. It is held in place with tape, supports and the belly pan itself. I like the foam board as it is very resistant to moisture, and God knows there is moisture in the belly of our old Airstreams. I lowered the nose of my 86 to hitch up today. You should have seen the water run out of my belly pan drain holes in front. Maybe a gallon? I believe an Airstream needs drain holes in the belly pan.

David
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Old 08-13-2015, 06:21 PM   #100
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I don't know Prodex.
I do know Reflectix - great product.
Controversial to many, if I need to gut mine, the new insulation will be a spray foam sandwiched in Reflectix.
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