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Old 11-15-2009, 01:42 PM   #29
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Thanks, David, for the helpful hints! I think I'll have to set up a big 4 x 8 table like you did. I'm thinking about cutting up the banana wrap pieces in my basement on the pooltable this winter. I'll have to cover it with a board so I don't cut up the felt. I thought that maybe I'd rivet the sections together once I have them in place. Wouldn't it be easier to handle that way? I'm thinking I'll put the center back together & then the banana wrap. But, my mind is way ahead of my actual actions!

I took a couple more pictures of the front section that I finished removing yesterday. I have a total of 4 open outriggers that need repair & 3 solid outriggers that need repair. What a mess! I'm going to have to hugely bribe my son to weld up all that stuff. I'm the sort that wants things done yesterday & he's the sort that doesn't mind taking all the time in the world. Thinks I'm a big pain when I bug him to do stuff for me! I'll have to treat him with kid gloves on this one! Don't want him to bolt!
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Old 11-15-2009, 02:13 PM   #30
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Okay, I used just regular old house foam insulation like a person might use to finish off a basement. I cut it in squares and glued it up between the frame cross members. We live in Minnesota, so I put up two layers, one on top of the other. I also drilled several 3/8 diameter holes in my new bellypan to let any rain water out.

So here is a picture.
I've heard this will disintergrage with the vibration on the road, and rodents love it...................

Prodex
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Old 11-15-2009, 04:17 PM   #31
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Is Prodex only available from Insulation4less? Isn't there something comparable at a big box store?
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Old 11-15-2009, 04:33 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by beckybillrae View Post
Thanks, David, for the helpful hints! I think I'll have to set up a big 4 x 8 table like you did. I'm thinking about cutting up the banana wrap pieces in my basement on the pooltable this winter. I'll have to cover it with a board so I don't cut up the felt. I thought that maybe I'd rivet the sections together once I have them in place. Wouldn't it be easier to handle that way? I'm thinking I'll put the center back together & then the banana wrap. But, my mind is way ahead of my actual actions!

I took a couple more pictures of the front section that I finished removing yesterday. I have a total of 4 open outriggers that need repair & 3 solid outriggers that need repair. What a mess! I'm going to have to hugely bribe my son to weld up all that stuff. I'm the sort that wants things done yesterday & he's the sort that doesn't mind taking all the time in the world. Thinks I'm a big pain when I bug him to do stuff for me! I'll have to treat him with kid gloves on this one! Don't want him to bolt!
Start the conversation with "Son, we have been reviewing our will ... "
Bob
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Old 11-15-2009, 04:34 PM   #33
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Is Prodex only available from Insulation4less? Isn't there something comparable at a big box store?
Refletux(sp?) at Lows ...
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Old 11-15-2009, 05:49 PM   #34
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Is Prodex only available from Insulation4less? Isn't there something comparable at a big box store?
not really the same rating, they sell prodex for about $.25 a square.
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Old 11-15-2009, 07:05 PM   #35
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I noticed that some of the outriggers are solid & some are open. Any idea why?


On Little Girl, the solid outriggers were directly in front of and behind the wheel wells. I think they are solid to help keep critters and debris out of the belly area. The stairs have special outriggers as well, and they have slots in them to guide the stair mechanism when you raise and lower them. At the very front and rear, the outriggers are solid, but not full height. They are tapered on our trailer to allow for clearance for the corner banana wraps. The rest of the outriggers are open. I imagine to help conserve weight more than anything else, and maybe to allow for some air movement inside the belly pan. Maybe.

The slots on the stair outriggers are a great opening to allow critters into the belly pan area, and there have been a few discussions on how to deal with them. One of the better ones I remember was stuffing brass or bronze wool (like steel wool, but it wonít rust) into the slots to keep the critters out. I have no idea where to get brass wool though. Iím not sure what Iím going to do about the slots yet either.

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I'm not putting the pink stuff back in there. I'm going to use some kind of insulation that people on the forums recommend (can't remember the name offhand--have to look it up again). Do you get the pink stuff off the tops of the steel with a knife, or what? I didn't think it was a big deal there.


Prodex comes highly recommended. The stuff you can get at Menards, Home Depot, and Lowes around us is Refletux (SP?). Itís not the same stuff as Prodex. Reflextux is made with air bubbles (similar to bubble wrap), and according to some of the other posters, the bubbles will pop in the extreme heat in the South when used inside an AS wall. And then it loses itís insulation value. The Prodex, while a bit more expensive, is made differently and again, according to others, does hold up to the heat as itís not made from bubble wrap type material. We plan on using Prodex in Little Girl.


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I think I might land up making new sides for the banana wrap. It has some holes & corrosion in it. From what I've read, it's not that hard if you have a sharp tin snip.


Youíll want a set of 3 Aviation Snips. Widely available at hardware stores and online. Why 3? One cuts straight, one makes left-hand curves, and the third makes right-hand curves. Spend a bit more and get the offset type that will allow the sheet metal youíre cutting to pass under the joint of the cutters easily. Wiss and Irwin are two good brands to look for. No endorsement here Ė this is the first link that came up in Google Ė just to give you an idea of what youíre looking for: http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&q=wiss+aviation+snips&cid=1821681455 4915161705&sa=title#p


On the welding Ė I totally agree with how Bob said to start the conversation with your son.
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Old 11-15-2009, 07:33 PM   #36
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I'll go with the Prodex. Do you think one roll of 4 x 175 is enough? It's $210 plus $28 s/h, so it comes out to .34/sf. It's actually cheaper than the Reflectix from Lowe's.

What do you think about the electric snips they have at Harbor Freight? I could put them on my Christmas list, along with the pneumatic riveter! I have a Harbor Freight right around the corner, so if it pukes, I can return it & get another one!

I've also called a local supplier & they have .032 aluminum in sheets of 4 x 10 for $48. I don't think that's too bad....at least I don't have to pay for shipping.

I think I've conquered my terror of the belly pan.....now I just have to line all the ducks up for the real work!

I love all the advice & encouragement...it really helps build the confidence!
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Old 11-16-2009, 08:07 AM   #37
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Becky - do you mean this one? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92148

I was going to buy one, or a pneumatic one in the spring. I should have bought a pneumatic riveter this past Summer, but I didnít. For the belly pan installation, I do plan on getting one. Harbor Freight carries ok quality tools IMO. Not as heavy duty as some of the commercial grade tools you can find, but for occasional use while restoring your airstream, they are quite good. Plus, they offer an extended warranty for dirt cheap on most products.

I would suggest still getting at least the straight cutting snips. They would easy to have under the trailer with you in case you need to trim something during installation.

Keep up the great work!

Chris
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Old 11-16-2009, 10:35 AM   #38
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Chris,

My son says I should get this one: - Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

instead of that one. I have a pair of straight snips at home here, so I'll save a couple bucks there.

He thinks that instead of welding new outriggers on, he could just put another one back to back and self-tap them together. Seems to think it would be less stress on the original weld since the top is good but the bottoms are bad. What do you think?
Obviously, he'd have to fix the hole in the back with a weld, but what about the outriggers?
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Old 11-16-2009, 12:06 PM   #39
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My son says I should get this one: - Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
instead of that one.
I agree. I was also going to get the pneumatic one instead of the electric one.

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He thinks that instead of welding new outriggers on, he could just put another one back to back and self-tap them together. Seems to think it would be less stress on the original weld since the top is good but the bottoms are bad. What do you think?


I like the idea of not having to cut the old outriggers off. But I think I’d weld them together rather than using screws. Or maybe nuts and bolts with lock washers. Then you can do the repair without worrying about charring the plywood.

Maybe someone else will chime in with an opinion for you as well.
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Old 11-16-2009, 01:13 PM   #40
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Becky, I went with the two rolls of 24 inch Prodex. Your frame sections are probably just a bit under 24 inch spacing. You will have a bunch of it left over (or you can do two layers to achieve an R-21 value). Here's my install...
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Old 11-16-2009, 03:01 PM   #41
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Becky, I went with the two rolls of 24 inch Prodex. Your frame sections are probably just a bit under 24 inch spacing. You will have a bunch of it left over (or you can do two layers to achieve an R-21 value). Here's my install...
How did you attach it to the floor? Did you leave any dead space? Thanks for pointing out that they have 24" Prodex. I didn't even see that on the website. What a bunch of work that would have been to cut it all down!

Your work looks great!
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Old 11-16-2009, 07:48 PM   #42
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I cut 1 1/2 inch styrofoam (2x4 sheets) into square blocks and attached to the subfloor with PL300 glue from Home Depot. This would leave an air space of 1 1/2 in. and sealed all the edges with aluminum tape. You can see more at the forums under Ambassador Redux in the '64 Ambassador subforum. Hope that helps.
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