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Old 05-10-2010, 05:45 PM   #1
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Rear End Belly Pan

Well....Just as I was doing some maintenance work on the Airstream,Look what I found.I already drilled out some of the rivets and about to drop the piece down.It seems that it has gotten soaked and was getting really heavy.
I was thinking about staying with the same size rivets.Should I just move to a size bigger since it would seem to hold better.Maybe some stainless screws with large washer?
Also....What type of insulation can I put back in there.everwhere else the insulation is fine except in the back.Luckily the wood floor is still in good shape.
Every bit of help is greatly appreciated.
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Old 05-10-2010, 06:19 PM   #2
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I have a similar issue. I was replacing the rear floor in the 85 sovereign and stopped for the night. Soon after, it started raining and I noticed from the inside that water was running down the inside of the banana panel.
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Old 05-10-2010, 06:43 PM   #3
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Hey Devoman,

We had a similar problem with our 2005 safari bunkhouse. The wet insulation and a full roll of duct tape (must have rolled into the floor space during construction at the factory) supplied enough weight to rip the aluminum from around the rivets. I fixed the problem by increasing the strength of the aluminum sheet by using a 6 foot long, 2 inch wide, 1/8" thick piece of flat aluminum available at Home Depot or Lowes. I drilled the flat aluminum and then tapped the frame member, then used 1/4" stainless steel bolts and fender washers to secure the aluminum sandwich to the frame. I sealed everything with some putty and cemented the bolts with some Lock-tite. After some 15000 miles, the fix is working well. I have attached a picture for clarification.

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Bye,
Paul
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Old 05-10-2010, 06:46 PM   #4
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Wood floor

After I got the belly almost all the way off I checked along where the belt line sits.Well low and behold.It seems that I can almost press my finger half way thru the wood floor.The rot runs along the whole rear area where the bumper connects to the frame.Hurra for me!!!!
I am now thinking I must remove the belt to seal this area unless it would be possible to seal it from beneath the beltline?It seems that there is no sealant there at all.

My Airstream Is only a 2005 25'SS
I am sad.Not mad,Just sad that I have to do extra work.
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Old 05-10-2010, 06:52 PM   #5
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Our belly pan would "oil can" now and then with just the right wind (strong and from the rear, parked). We noticed it had popped some rivets and so decided to have it braced with an additional cross piece between the frame members. It's about 4 ft square. I suspect it's intended to "leak" so any water in there could escape so maybe shouldn't be too tight.

Speaking of water, we are having a lot of work done to repair serious hail damage. As part of that, the rear end cap has been removed and has revealed a ruined floor for about 4 feet (at least) ahead of the rear hatch. Water has been standing on the bottom aluminum frame rail directly under the hatch for a long time, possibly from before the storm. Timeless Travel Trailers will pull up more flooring tomorrow and I am holding my breath about what they may find. We may be doing a body off floor replacement, and the RV was new in April of 06.

On the bright side, we found this problem before stepping thru the floor.

Please look closely at this possible water entry point. Maybe under the hatch, onto and thru the rear rail, thru the floor ruining it, and onto the belly pan. Other threads have talked about floor rot in this area; good luck.
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Old 05-10-2010, 07:24 PM   #6
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hey devoman that STINKS!

is there any chance this water intrusions is a from the LEAKY fresh water fill or shore water connect ?

as i recall you've had that problem a couple of times and replaced/fixed it twice?
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IF the water is from intrusion at the lower belt/trim line, YES the trim will need to be removed for repair.

typically there is little/NO sealant on the lower edge of the trim to LET water out...

but the top should be sealed (that can leak too) and the bumper shelf can CHANNEL water toward that seam...

several threads on this this issue...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f456...ybe-56674.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f396...eak-56099.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f163...eaks-5894.html

there are others on newer streams but this issue goes WAY back...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f477...ign-23121.html

still i'd also wonder about the previous water fill issues and 100 other ways water gets in these things...

cheers
2air'
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Old 05-10-2010, 07:46 PM   #7
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Water Inlet

Yea I reworked that today.I went and redid the pex line and replaced a piece with the flexible line to the inlet.I am also in the works of doing the flexi lines to the sinks and toilet.I checked really good around the inlet area to make sure that the rot was from that but the wood around that area is great compared to the rear end.I also checked for area around places like the door and stairs.I have been sealing up a lot of things and removing the old seals(Even if they are still good I am replacing as much as I can.
I am off tomorrow so I will be taking the beltline off.I just hope the sticky tape still works when I pull the center trim piece out on the beltline.
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Old 05-10-2010, 08:00 PM   #8
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these sealants take a beating, especially in flo'

the double stick tape usually peels just fine but don't be tempted to REuse it...

the trim has a thin 'bright work' layer (the fake chrome) and if it's peeled/rolled with 2much REVERSE curve/bend...

it will crinkle/CRACK along the outer surface.

take some pics and let us see how it goes.

cheers
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Old 05-10-2010, 08:17 PM   #9
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Trim

You are right about that 2Air.I had some of that center trim come off last summer.About close to 2 feet of it.I went and got some doublesided 3M tape and put it back on.It akes a lot to take that stuff off.
I will take some pictures tomorrow when I start back on it in the morning.
Now I need to get some more sealant.
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Old 05-11-2010, 08:01 PM   #10
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work

Well I got some #14 x 3/4 metal screws and some 3/16 x 1 1/4 washers.Did a test run with those and it fits perfect on the belly.
You just have to make sure the rivets are completely out of the hole.
I used a small drill bit and then broke the rivet heads off and then redrilled the left over piece out.I never made the original holes bigger.Also I got some Tempro 636 to seal the beltline with once I get that off.I have about three screws that have rusted into the beltline and is stuck.I stripped the heads on them so off to home depot tomorrow to get that tool that removes stripped screws.Also I noticed that they added some rivets in the beltline and drilled those out also.
one thing I noticed though was that the screws are not stainless.I will be getting those tomorrow.
As for the center piece or chrome belt.It pretty much came off with no force at all.Pretty much would have fallen off within the season I think.I am going to play around with it and replace the sticker on the back side of it if I can.Well that is it for now but I will have some pics up hopefully soon for all to see.
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Old 05-12-2010, 09:32 PM   #11
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Beltline

Got both the rear belts off today and started cleaning up the area.It will take me a couple days to do this.
I got half done today though.One thing I can say is that they did seal the rear area up.The bad part is that they either did not complete the seal in certain areas or the seal shrunk a bit and opened up some areas.The bigger areas of rot in the wood is where the opening are at.
I also went back to home depot today and purchased stainless screws.The ones they use rusted and I had about 3 screw strip out on me because they were rusted in..I had to drill them out.

When I finish everything and start replacing the belt trim back on.
Should I go ahead and purchase some Acryl-R now or would the tempro 636 work just as good?
I am thinking the Acryl-R.Any advise is appreciated.Thanks
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Old 05-12-2010, 10:04 PM   #12
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UNDER the beltline at the shell/skin panel seam use the vulkem as needed to seal the shell.

it' might be useful in any screw holes than can channel water.

after the trim is reattached vulkem, parbond or acryl-r can be used to 'seal' the trim along the skin.

this gap should only be 1-2 mm if the trim is properly snugged.

the issue is making a small cosmetically nice bead along the trim/shell gap.

it's very easy with the acryl-r which retracts into the gap,

and takes more practice/technique (or a syringe) to do that tiny bead with vulkem or parbond.

cheers
2air'
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Old 05-12-2010, 10:24 PM   #13
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syringe

Would masking it with the blue painters tape work?I thought I saw some others doing this in other threads.
How long would it have to sit before I peel it off?I am thinking right after I get done with the whole beltline from one end to the other,it should have set up by then.I also have the Parbond in the tube.I used it on the water inlet connect.
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Old 05-13-2010, 07:36 PM   #14
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Almost There

I am pretty much finished on the cleaning part.It was not as bad as I though it would be.To get the old sealant out I used a plain ole Plexi glass cutter.It worked really well and the pointy end of it would snag what was underneath the aluminum wall.
I also used some mineral spirit to wipe and clean the area up when finished and then washed it down to finalize the cleaning.
Tomorrow I start sealing everything up and then hopefully have the trim all on.
After that I will tape it off and use some aluminum colored parbond to seal the top of the beltline.
Well here is what I have done so far.
I still have just a touch here and there to clean on final inspection before I start sealing it up tomorrow so any more advise before I start on it tomorrow is greatly appreciated?
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