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Old 02-28-2013, 03:32 PM   #15
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DryFly's Avatar
1972 Argosy 20
Snoqualmie , Washington
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 379
So I'm biting the bullet and will be replacing my belly pan in the next month. The existing pan is 62" wide by 16' long. Aircraft Spruce only has 48" wide panels, so it looks like I'll need to order 4 panels at 48"x72". I'm guessing I'll need to create a couple of intermediate cross members since the existing frame cross members don't layout at 4' o.c.
Some questions:
1) Do the panels take a "set" when coiled for shipping? I'm assuming that if they do it's fairly minor and can be worked out, but I get in trouble when I assume something.
2) I'm going to need to add some screw or rivet holes (haven't yet decided between the two) along the frame member since I doubt I'll be able to hit all the old rivet holes in the cross members. Does this weaken the frame to any significant degree?
3) I've made the assumption (there I go again) that I'll run the panels perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the trailer thereby requiring the use of 48" wide panels cut to 62" long as described above - correct?


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Old 03-01-2013, 07:18 AM   #16
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1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,902
I used 6061 T6 and it did not take a set when rolled. I made my new pan in many sections, but found that my cross members were 2' on center, which facilitated running a 4' wide panel cross-wise as you are planning yours. If you do a search of my posts regarding bellypan, you should find some pics of my upside down chassis with the be pan in place.

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Old 03-01-2013, 07:21 AM   #17
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1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,902
I also wouldn't bother trying to hit the old rivet holes, especially if you are on your back underneath the trailer. I used the monster-headed pop rivets from VTS, and they did the trick.

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