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Old 07-10-2013, 04:31 PM   #1
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More belly pan questions

I need to cut the back end of the belly pan off my 66 Overlander, to remove the galvanized tank pan. It's bolted on and I need access to cut the rusted bolts.
Is it ok to cut the pan across the width of the trailer and then how do I reattach it ?
Looking for some tips.

I have read so many belly pan posts I am going blind!! For real.
I guess I will try to reuse the aluminum that is there now.
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Old 07-10-2013, 05:30 PM   #2
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Where is the seam or did they run the length of the trailer? If they did go to the point that you have a rivet line from side to side and remove those rivets and cut just (about an inch) behind that line towards the back of the trailer. This will give you a plumbing or tank access. You may need a 6inch wide by 7 and a half foot long piece of aluminum to overlap your new cut after your done. Order the large flange rivets from VTS for the repair. remember never cut if you do not need to and make it easy on yourself.
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Old 07-10-2013, 06:21 PM   #3
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Mine attached at the rear bumper, I drilled out the rivets there, then cut the aluminum on both sides going toward the front, and left the front uncut. Then I rolled it back toward the front to expose the galvanized pan. Then to re-attach I used 10" wide scrap to overlap the seam where I cut it, riveting the patch on both sides of the seam.

Don't know if I explained it so you can understand it, pm me if you want.
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Old 07-10-2013, 06:22 PM   #4
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Thanks. i peeled back the belly pan under the black tank, but. Need more access. looks like one big sheet under there.
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Old 07-10-2013, 06:23 PM   #5
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The patch makes sense.,thanks

What did you use to do the cutting?
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Old 07-10-2013, 06:39 PM   #6
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sheet metal shears
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Old 07-10-2013, 06:42 PM   #7
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my belly pan had a seam right down the middle, once both sides are cut forward that should give you plenty of room, if it was like mine.
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Old 07-10-2013, 06:52 PM   #8
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get some shears and wack off what you need. It's just some aluminum and they smelt that stuff every single day...

The part you are going to struggle with is the bolts. The heads are above the floor and you will not be able to remove them with out taking the bathroom module out. SO... how to do this? First blast the nuts(after you peel back the belly pan) with BP Blaster two three times a day for a few days. The trick is to spin the nut off without spinning the bolt. The bolt is an elevator bolt with a fairly small head. I would suggest you buy or borrow an impact gun to remove the nut. When you squeeze the trigger do it with full confidence that the nut is going to spin right off. Cutting them will be a disaster when installing the new pan. You will not be able to put new bolts in without removing the bathroom.
I just put a new pan in a 64and it was easier since the entire trailer is empty.
Just be forewarned, you might not like what you see in the rear 3" when the pan is down. Sometimes ignorance is bliss.
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:19 AM   #9
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thanks Frank. I have an impact wrench and will try the PB Blaster once I can see the remaining bolts. Will it be ok to simply screw in the new box to the floor?
The pan is down now just not quite enough. The rear frame and the above plywood look fine. Just some rust on the support angle iron. I can clean that up and POR it.
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Old 07-11-2013, 01:43 PM   #10
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I think you could screw it in but there will be only 5/8" of plywood to screw to. I would worry about a full load in the tank pulling the screws out.
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Old 07-11-2013, 02:13 PM   #11
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I did have access to mine so I used bolts... I wonder if heavy duty threaded clips would work?
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Old 07-11-2013, 02:39 PM   #12
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I guess I will go with short fat wood screws. Lots of them
Oh yeah TANKS TO ALL OF YOU- the box is now out!!
I had to break the last few bolts off with vise grips. They broke off right at the wood.
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Old 07-11-2013, 02:41 PM   #13
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Now off to get a box fabbed up. I am guessing about 100 bucks.
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Old 07-11-2013, 04:09 PM   #14
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$100... maybe if out of galvanized. I would say $300 out of stainless...
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