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Old 07-11-2013, 05:31 PM   #15
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Woodstock , Georgia
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I am thinking galvanized and flex sealed.
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Old 07-31-2013, 11:31 AM   #16
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Got the new box today. Looks great and is nice and solid.$125 was the damage.
Would it make sense to drill a few weep holes in the bottom? Small ones to let out any possible mositure?
I intend to flex seal the inside but just wondering.
It will be great to get the belly pan back on and all tightened up.
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Old 08-31-2013, 10:08 AM   #17
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Box is on. Bumper trunk is back on, the riveting killed my hands!
Belly pan in mostly on, needs more rivets and I am out for the present.
It was hard to line up rivet holes, and I had to drill some more. Just not enjoying laying on my back with my head held up to do all this.
Sore hands and neck for sure.
Getting there. Will need to run a patch over part of the seam in the pan, its got a few defects there..
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Old 09-12-2013, 09:44 AM   #18
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Richmond , Virginia
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Just wanted to jump in here. Make sure you fill your old black tank with water. Mine looked great, and the original pan was almost complete, but when I filled it with water, it leaked like a sieve. It was broken at the Thetford flange. I could have gotten the original glass on flange from VTS, but then would have to use the Thetford valve. Also, would need a new pan, and then I still wouldn't have any good way to add a gray tank. $175 is the cheapest I can get a galvanized pan made for around here (called 4 shops) Then fiberglass, Thetford setup was about $75, and then I'm left with a pretty small black tank that is about 50 years old, with 50 year old technology. Plus, since I got a new toilet, I have to cut out the old female thread ABS, and move it back an inch and re-glass a new one on.

Here's the better option that I came up with:

Sheet of 4x8 ABS was $100.00. I got 2. That's enough for 2 grey tanks as well as my new black tank. I can slope the bottom of the black just a wee bit to help it drain to the new Valterra in back. The gray line gets cut where it used to go into the valve just after the Black valve, and instead routs across the back of the trailer just inside the access panel. Now, it drops to the street side of the black, and runs up to the front of the trailer where it enters the gray tank. That one empties into the one behind it, then that follows back to the back, where it goes under the gray "supply" line wraps the back of the black, and joins the Valterra mixing valve, and ends at the same spot in the back as the original hookup. I strugged for a year to figure out how I wanted to add this in without pulling my tub out.

Since my floor covering is up, I'm driling new elevator bolt locations. (snapped off the old rusted ones, poked them, and pulled them out from the top) Dropping new bolts down for the support straps, and then drilling some wood screws in to the flange I'm putting on the black tank.

The new black tank still has to have that odd cutout for rear, floor mounted tanks, so I couldn't use any tanks off the shelf. Going to put in a tank heater, but I may just run my original furnace duct line back there with a gap in the insulation to allow it to surround the tank like the original.
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Old 09-12-2013, 11:56 AM   #19
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Whoops. Missed the post where you had it back on.. Well, best of luck! I know Frank was posting on this thread, so this may be something he'd want to consider in the future.

Not sure how a powerpoint drawing will save, but this is my plan for updating my trailer. Something to consider if you want to add gray tanks in the future. I think your option at this time, if you kept your setup, would be to run that gray line across the back of the trailer, then up a little bit, then drop it down through the floor, forward of the black tank. You'll just need to hook up twice to dump as you'd have to have 2 locations for dumping. Though, your trailer config may be different than mine.
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Old 09-12-2013, 01:46 PM   #20
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THANKS ANYWAY...My black tank was not leaking. It had water and Clagon in it to cleanse it. It had a small leak at a place where the valve is located, I sealed that and it was ok.
Last few rivets to put in the belly pan and then a 10" long patch on one side and I am done...with this part of the project anyway.
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