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Old 09-21-2011, 03:00 PM   #1
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1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
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Dropping Holding Tanks Pans on 31 ft center Bath Excella II

My 81 Excella II has two pans under the holding tanks and I was wondering how much of a B----h they are going to be to remove. Are the tanks going to come down with them? What is between the pan and the tank? I figure there is about a 90% chance that the bolts holding them are going to snap so putting new ones in will be fun. The belly pan metal seems to be under the flange for the tanks which makes any belly pan related activities extra fun. I plan on putting stainless sheet metal screws in to hold on the new belly pans so I can get under there and maintain and inspect things periodically. For now, I plan on cutting the existing belly skin where the BAL jacks attach. Those screws did break during removal.

Perry
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Old 11-06-2011, 05:29 PM   #2
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No one ever answered this one. What happens when you take the screws out holding the holding tank pans? Does just the pan come down or does the whole tank drop out on the ground?

Perry
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Old 11-06-2011, 06:01 PM   #3
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1983 31' Excella
Troy , Ohio
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Hi Perry,
If you have 2 pans under your trailer, then the pan between the axles is for the water tank; the gray and black tanks have 1 larger pan for them both behind the axles. I have a service manual for my trailer, and it is in my trailer 30 miles from here. I would recommend that you get a service manual for your trailer. In the manual are very clear directions and pictures as to how the entire trailer, and everything in it, can be taken apart and then be put back together, along with maintenance schedules, bulb numbers, etc. From what I remember reading in the service manual, there will be styrofoam sheets on the bottom and sides of the holding tank pan. The holding tank has to be disconnected from the flange under the toilet, and from the vent pipe. A floor jack and supporting piece of plywood are put under the pan, the bolts loosened, and pan lowered. Also, the black and gray tanks would be connected by the drain valves and connecting pipes. I could give more help once I get to the trailer and get the service manual.
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Old 11-06-2011, 07:50 PM   #4
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1981 31' Excella II
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My main reason for wanting to take the screws out of the tank pans is to get the belly skin disconnected from under the pans. Why on earth did they put the belly skin under the lip of the tank pans. I have no desire to remove the tanks.

Perry
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Old 11-06-2011, 08:43 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perryg114 View Post
My main reason for wanting to take the screws out of the tank pans is to get the belly skin disconnected from under the pans. Why on earth did they put the belly skin under the lip of the tank pans. I have no desire to remove the tanks.

Perry
I think your '81 is very similar to my '86 Sovereign. I changed my belly pan without taking the tank covers off. I took out the bolts along the outside edges of the tank boxes (both front & rear) but they didn't budge. I was able to get the belly pan material out from under the lip (they are attached under the bolts). When I put the new belly pan back in, I was able to slip it back under the line of bolts (with a lot of fussing). There is a tar-like material holding those tanks on in addition to the bolts. They aren't going anywhere without a battle!
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Old 11-07-2011, 05:17 AM   #6
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So do the bolts go through the tank lip/Belly Skin then into the lip around the tank and then into some steel angle? The manual is not very clear how all this fits together. I may end up leaving a section of the belly skin between the rear tank and the BAL jacks. It is not in bad shape. I have already cut it at the BAL jack support.

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Old 11-07-2011, 07:01 AM   #7
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Yes when you take the tank pan off the tank comes with it, the black tank will still be held by the vent and toilet flange, very hard to put back.

I suggest leaving 1 inch or so of the old belly pan adding an aluminum strip to attach the new belly pan skin..
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Old 11-07-2011, 07:34 AM   #8
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1981 31' Excella II
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I may just make the first joint at the BAL jacks. Eventually, I want to replace any belly skin that has hole rotted in it. It sounds like it is not worth screwing something up and there is a 90% chance those bolts are going to break before they come out.

The tank skins don't really do anything structually? They just cover the tanks that are supported by the outer ring of bolts? I need to do a little repair to them but nothing major. Some old areas where someone has added access panels needs to be replaced.

Perry
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Old 11-07-2011, 07:43 AM   #9
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There's nothing wrong with piecing it. I took mine all the way off to do repairs on the frame & replace the insulation. If you just need to repair some holes, it's no big deal to put pieces in where you need them.

Bob's suggestion is a good one...then you don't have to fool with the bolts at all. You can repair access panels with a new patch & rivets.
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Old 11-07-2011, 07:44 AM   #10
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1981 31' Excella II
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Do I need a drill bit stop when drilling on the tank pan access plates so I don't puncture a tank?

Perry
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Old 11-07-2011, 12:35 PM   #11
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There should be styrofoam between the tank & the pan. However, I used a stop when I drilled mine (I cut it to get at the plumbing). You also have to be careful of wires from your tank sensors if you're doing any cutting. Here's a picture of what that area of the box looked like in my trailer (toward the bottom of the page):

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f476...n-58333-7.html
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Old 11-07-2011, 01:09 PM   #12
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1981 31' Excella II
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Here is what the back of mine looks like. Since I took this pic I cut the skin off even with the BAL jack support.



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