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Old 07-07-2009, 06:42 AM   #1
1 Rivet Member
Profile:  1986 34' Limited
Delano , Minnesota
Posts: 15

Bellypan Replacement Project

Well, I cleaned and sealed the exposed frame members, installed the foam board insulation, and riveted the new aluminum in place. Thanks for the advice from forum mambers. I've only done the rear, behind the tanks section, but I feel, with time and work, I can do the rest of the trailer. Here is a picture of the foam board, and a handy bellypan holder while I riveted it in place.
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Old 07-07-2009, 07:13 AM   #2
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Profile:  2006 28' Classic
Byhalia , Mississippi
Posts: 397

Nice work. I especially like the pan holder using the custom sized chunk of concrete!!!! That looks like some pretty hefty pan material.
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Old 07-07-2009, 09:33 AM   #3
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Profile:  1973 23' Safari
North of Boston , Massachusetts
Posts: 3,609
Images: 99

Cool! how did you secure the foam? (is that 5" of the rigid pink foam board stuff?)

when you do a new belly pan, do you use the old rivet holes, or just hold the alluminum in place, and drill all new ones?
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Old 07-08-2009, 05:59 AM   #4
1 Rivet Member
Profile:  1986 34' Limited
Delano , Minnesota
Posts: 15

I used 2" foam board insulation. I cut it to fit in the frame cross member openings, which are about 57" wide and 24" long. I used a foam board construction adhesive and the caulk gun. The foam fit snugly in the openings. And I used two pieces for a total of 4". We're from Minnesota where it's always cold! The foam board did not absorb water after two days submurged in a pan of water. I think this is better than the wet fiberglass batting that was in there origionally.

The aluminum is .025 on 48" coil. I cut it to 60" long panels, and created a 60" wide by 7 foot long sheet with riveted seams every 48". I marked the center line of the sheet at 30". And I marked the center line of the frame. It is important it lines up on center before the riveting begins. Then I held it in place with the 2x4 holder and cement block risers. I drilled and riveted all afternoon! I did not attempt to use the origional holes.

I am trying to decide if I should drill some drain holes in the bellypan. The bumper wraps, sewer hose storage area and lid are not sealed, and allow rain water to run into the belly pan area. Why not let it drain out? The photos show the old bellypan corrosion, and the rear bumper area that is open to the elements.

The front of the trailer, ahead of the axles, is much longer at 24 feet. But I will use the same method. It will take me a good week of work to get it done. Maybe next year as we have traveling to do this summer.

David
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Old 07-08-2009, 06:54 AM   #5
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Profile:  1973 23' Safari
North of Boston , Massachusetts
Posts: 3,609
Images: 99

interesting. I'd be concerned that any water that does manage to get between the foam and the plywood would just sit there, and rot out the floor from underneath.
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Old 08-13-2009, 04:42 PM   #6
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Profile:  1967 24' Tradewind
Redding , California
Posts: 370
Blog Entries: 3
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Hmm, I am thinking the same as Chuck. I'm in the midst of this and will probably put spacers o a 1/2 to 3/4" and attach the foam. This will give some airspace for drying should it get damp.
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Old 02-25-2010, 04:22 PM   #7
2 Rivet Member
Profile:  1967 26' Overlander
Lake Elsinore , California
Posts: 21

I too am going to be replacing my belly pan and was reading about letting the water drip out. But am worried about spiders and insects getting up in there. So I was thinking maybe gluing a metal mesh on the inside on the aluminum sheet over the holes?

PS> What's the difference between belly pan and banana wrap?
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Old 02-25-2010, 06:05 PM   #8
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Profile:  1965 28' Ambassador
Irving , Texas
Posts: 243
Images: 5

The banana wrap is the piece that wrap around the perimeter of the AS and is riveted into the lower side of the skin and the belly pan.
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