Good day all!
Can anyone point me to some threads on reattaching bellypans?
I'm not too sure how to proceed.
Should i use self tapping screws or what? It,s a bit of a blind process.
P.S.
How does one go about searching for whole phrases on the forums.
Thanks.
Eric...
Hello,
I'm going to reattach myself, eventually. I have a '67, too. I think they go on with rivets. I'm not quite there yet, but I'll be watching this post. Definitely do a belly pan search!
Mine's all attached with rivets, the regular pop type. Are you putting NEW piece of metal on or just the old one? You could use a couple of sheet metal screws to hold it on at first while your getting the pop rivets in, but I would use them exclusively.
I think you need to provide more information. Pictures help also. The edge goes under the shell edge and you use olympic rivets. Of course how you took it off may influence the size, ect. If it is just underneath then use rivets to attach it to the frame members and over lap seams and do a line of rivets on the overlap. Exactly what are you doing.
__________________ Let those who can play, let those who cann't rule.
Hi Eric -- Bellypan aluminum is 0.025" and subject to either damage or corrosion. You might find the original is in rough shape in a few areas. I reattached some areas by cutting out little squares of 0.032" and using like a washer over the original bellypan and banana wrap. The only screws you'll be finding down there is if you have B.A.L stabilizers. Everything else is pop rivets -- not Olympics. Use 'Search' if you have any questions -- we rehashed pop rivets as recently as last weekend.
Removal of the old rivets may leave you with a hole a bit large for 1/8" pop rivets, so you'll want an assortment of 1/8" and 5/32" rivets in medium and long lengths. The frame may show rust problems. I'd recommend treating and coating accessible areas with Por-15 if you are doing a major belly-off or back on.
Ditto on requests for more info. Does the bellypan already off involve areas where propane piping penetrates the pan?
Ok. Specifically; I want to know if there is a way to find the old rivet holes where the old bellypan was attached to the underside of the cross members.
I,m going to put the new marine grade plywood floor on and then attach foam insulation to the bottom of the floor between the cross members and then the new bellypan will go on. How do i find the old rivet holes to attach new ones through the new bellypan, or should i use self tapping stainless screws of some sort. I,m using stainless fasteners throught. Help!!
go to thread "new axis axle" posts 11 and 41-49 for belly pan info. Use the large head rivets from Vintage Trailer Supply to reattach the belly skin. You can see the "hole finders" I used to locate the holes along the perimeter.
For interior support between the frame, I installed treated 2x6 lumber so I could use screws there. I posted a note on the member who had the idea originally. I just didn't want to drill more holes in the already compromised frame cross members.
You can see in the above posts that since the frame is wider than 48", you'll have to piece the skin together from two pieces (or you can use a roofing roll--it's plenty wide, but 0.050 thick [I think]--find a salvage place that has partial rolls).
You don't have to seal the joints--unless you are replacing the skin under the tanks--the area is designed to breathe.
Don't worry about finding the old holes, just drill new ones.
Can't say I agree with this. Why put more holes into your frame -- starting points for rust y'know, especially when it is a good idea to Por-15 the frame when you have bellypan off. Except in mid-sheet, it is very easy to drill holes in new sheet to match the previous frame hole exactly. Take a look at source info for the "12-inch clearance strap duplicator" in this thread. It is easier to explain visually, so the forums text falls short in that department. Let me just say that if you get one and need more help, then post back here and we'll help you out further. You just have to decide whether to buy the size for the #21 or the #30 twist drill (see thread link above). I really like Inland RV's short twist drills -- you can use them to drill out outer shell rivets without denting the inner skin.
I've read it in the Forums and can't speak with direct knowledge, but it's always been said that hardware store flashing (or roofing roll) is not a very high grade of aluminum and quite subject to corrosion. I do know that the frame spacing under the trailer works best with 4' wide sheet (even though the original bellypan was one piece). 5052-H32 is a grade commonly recommended -- though looking at the description on my grade link I don't know that you'd go wrong with 3003.
My first link is to Metal Supermarkets -- accessible to many throughout the country, though probably not great on prices. Talk to metal fabricators and other metal sources in your area to compare if you wish. I do know that the proper 0.025" thickness for bellypan is not commonly kept in stock and most of us won't use enough to make it worth their trouble. Therefore Metal Supermarkets becomes a better choice for many -- though even they may not stock 0.025". Phone ahead and have them get it in for you.
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