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Old 05-25-2009, 08:02 AM   #29
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1960 33' Custom
Saskatoon , Saskatchewan
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,120
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Not much to add except that I bought some tractor trailer roof skin last week. It comes on a roll 103" wide and is I believe 0.040" 3003 aluminum. (I paid $17.75 Canadian a linear foot, but it's probably half that south of the border).

My belly pan refit is non standard in that I have three large sheets covering the areas front, rear and between drop down tanks. This will accompany .025" sheet that will form the corner and side curvy pieces.

I'm using large flange rivets from Fastenal (about 8c each).

If my plan works out it should be a piece of cake to drop the large sheets for maintenance or modification work, plus 040" is seriously tough looking stuff with no unwanted seems.

1960 Sovereign 33' Pacific Railroad Custom
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Old 05-26-2009, 04:48 AM   #30
1 Rivet Member
1972 27' Overlander
Wake Forest , North Carolina
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 16
Attaching wood to trusses

Originally Posted by markdoane View Post
First, let me welcome you to airforums. The following isn't meant as a criticism, and I hope you take it only as a technical response, and not as a personal attack.

I don't think you should use pressure treated wood in contact with aluminum. The new copper quat and copper azole types of pressure treated are more corrosive to aluminum than the old CCA stuff.
Thanks for the welcome. Actually I did not use the new PT but the old CCA material for some of the trusses. Others were done with baldcypress strips but I figured most in the community could not find baldcypress or Atantic white cedar. I applied Trempro (new name for Vulkem) where the #8 SS screws went through the face of the truss. It's pretty tough to hit that narrow truss edge where there is not a seam. Did not need the wood where the seam was.


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Old 06-21-2009, 01:48 PM   #31
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1973 29' Ambassador
Fort White , Florida
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 61
Bull the seam, Jack the wrap, Rub the rail

This is how I am doing it, Bull the seam, purchased a 100' roll of bull tape at the roofing supply for $5 bucks a roll, placed it where the wrap will attach, second, I jack the wrap into place, then did the rivet job, then I fill the seam with Vulkem 116, picked up at the roofing supply for under $5 bucks a tube, then Rub the rail, I rivet the rail on and finish with a bead of the Silicone GE product, picked up at Lowes, made for Aluminum, along the top edge of the Rub rail, it goes on easy and looks nice, it made a much better finish than useing the Vulkem, Ok, thats the way I am doing it, it might not be the Airstream way, but it works for me, Good luck with your project, John 123
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File Type: psd rail4.psd (178.8 KB, 90 views)
File Type: psd jack3.psd (205.9 KB, 52 views)

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