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Old 06-03-2006, 11:30 AM   #15
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I know the belly pan was 0.025, but what's wrong with using something thicker, particularly if it is available or priced right? It would weigh more and therefor put more stress on the area around the rivets, but it would be stronger. I wonder what the trade-off is? Under static conditions, no problem, but under vibration the added weight could make a bigger difference.

Roofing Roll is aluminium for making metal roofs. Don't know the width, but it's quite wide, maybe 80" (I wound up using two sheets of 4'x8' 5053--2024 is hard to come by unless you're near an airplane factory). The yard I went to is a combination "new" and "scrap" place--they told me about the roofing roll. I'm curious why it would be more susceptible to corrosion, seeing what it's intended use is.
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Old 06-03-2006, 03:53 PM   #16
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Canoe stream, Good luck in finding all the holes in the frame through the aluminum, there isn't anything wrong with putting por 15 over them and drilling new ones. I don't know what this thing is with the thickness of the aluminum for the belly pan, it is just a cover. 1/64th + or - isn't going to matter. Some of you guys carry things to the extreme. It is just a trailer. Marvin
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Old 06-03-2006, 05:32 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Zeppelinium
I know the belly pan was 0.025, but what's wrong with using something thicker, particularly if it is available or priced right?
Roger,

The only problem I've had is getting the initial bend in the belly wrap when using .032", 5052-H32.

I ended up using a piece of sewer tube to make a bending form. It makes a very nice, hard, bulletproof belly pan, but it is a LOT of work!
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Old 06-03-2006, 05:45 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by markdoane
Roger,

The only problem I've had is getting the initial bend in the belly wrap when using .032", 5052-H32.

I ended up using a piece of sewer tube to make a bending form. It makes a very nice, hard, bulletproof belly pan, but it is a LOT of work!
markdoane, thanks I'll add your idea to my list of construction techniques.
Don
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Old 06-03-2006, 06:45 PM   #19
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Canoe stream, Good luck in finding all the holes in the frame through the aluminum....
Notta so bad when it is drop-dead simple to reuse the exact same holes (at sheet edges at least). I did develop a tedious method to reuse holes in mid-sheet, but imagine the flak I'd get... . Drilling a new hole dead onto a cross member mid-sheet is meticulous any-who. Potay-toes, Potah-toes. Readers will choose ... No polls please!

Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
The only problem I've had is getting the initial bend in the belly wrap when using .032", 5052-H32.
I must give full credit to markdoane for sending me down the path of righteousness and informing the Forums of the strap duplicator. Marvin, it's okay if we leave this back at the Potay-toes, Potah-toes juncture...

Don (markdoane) does point out the difficulty of .032". That is what I did buy, rather than the .025". I agree with Zeppelinium that the weight penalty is negligible for using this as bellypan. I had to recreate side belly wrap but not the corner bananawrap like Don appears to have done. And yes, .032" is a pain in the a** to develop smooth bends and it looks like we used similar techniques. Hmm... Don and I live an hour apart, didn't communicate on technique, and yet evolutionary convergence did occur... Intelligent design anyone?
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Old 06-03-2006, 08:03 PM   #20
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Hey Bob, Not a problem. I don't care if you want to do it the hard way. I was just telling the guy the easy way to do it. Go camping and have some fun. Marvin
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Old 06-03-2006, 08:09 PM   #21
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A little further information on using 5052-H32 for the bellypan: I thought I might be able to anneal the sheets back to dead soft, using a large propane stump-burner torch. Then it would be easy to form it into a curve.

Bad idea. Don't try to anneal aluminum sheets unless you have a large pizza oven. The sheet warped so bad that it split on one edge.

Bob: My '59 Tradewind spent it's first 30 years and 9 months in St Cloud, right next to you.
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Old 06-03-2006, 10:47 PM   #22
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OK lets use a little logic, It's a 1967 trailer. Are you doing a 5 year 10 year or 40 year restore. Length of time means greater price. If you just want to be reasonable don't worry about drilling new holes in the frame for the new rivets. I found 1" diameter rivets at a store called Fastenal. they covered the damaged holes where the old rivets broke out. Drill out what is left of the old rivets and just use these larger rivets to secure belly pan. About the rivet gun. If you are doing the entire belly pan go and get the air rivet gun from Harbor Freight Tools. If you don't have a compressor here is a good excuse to buy one or borrow from a friend.Got my air riveter on sale for $39. What a life saver. you can get pressure on the rivet and a simple trigger pull and pow the rivet is secure. Fastenal has rivets not available in the hardware store in all sizes and you will be glad you looked them up. I think they are on the internet at www.Fastenal.com They have two stores in the Denver area and I believe they are a nationwide chain. Another hint, I backed my trailer over a ditch to get more room under it to work,thankfully most of the work I had to do was in the rear of the trailer.
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Old 06-03-2006, 10:50 PM   #23
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Wow, reconfirmation that many of you, yes, you, are completely NUTS! Bending the belly pan to fit up around the sides to the lower belt line (that's what I call it ). Let me add here "I am not worthy."

My belly pan only went from frame rail to frame rail--61 inches--and was therefor completely flat. My sides are separate curved pieces. Man, I didn't know I had it easy!
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Old 06-08-2006, 09:06 PM   #24
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Hey Zep;

I guess I never thought of just rolling the metal from side to side...our "belts" are off, did you put belts on yours underneath too? Sorry if it's a dumb question, but I'm new at everything I do on our trailer. You haven't run into any problems I should know of? Sounds wonderful to do it your way.
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Old 11-18-2008, 09:15 PM   #25
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If you want to use the old holes, simply place a lenght of tape, with at least 2 referance points, over the old holes on the frame. Mark or punch the holes in the tape and transfer it to the new aluminum sheet. If done carefully, it should work fine. I haven't tried it but will in a few weeks. Airstray
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Old 05-25-2009, 07:39 AM   #26
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After treating the undercarriage with the POR-15 system, you can make reinstallation of the belly skin easier by attaching a piece of 3/4 x 1-1/2 pressure treated wood to the lower side of the trusses with stainless steel screws. Attach the belly skin to the wood using ss, round head, square drive wood screws available from McFeeley. The metal rib is not very wide so the extra width of PT wood is a big help.
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Old 05-25-2009, 08:18 AM   #27
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First, let me welcome you to airforums. The following isn't meant as a criticism, and I hope you take it only as a technical response, and not as a personal attack.

I don't think you should use pressure treated wood in contact with aluminum. The new copper quat and copper azole types of pressure treated are more corrosive to aluminum than the old CCA stuff.
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Old 05-25-2009, 08:59 AM   #28
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Reattaching the underbelly or belly pan ,as some call, is very easy.



Use aluminum 3/16 pop rivets and stems, with "LARGE" heads.

Those will usually survive even when the running gear is not properly balanced.

Unbalanced running gear causes the underbelly to flutter at highway speeds.

Andy
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