If I am correct most bellyskins are a continuous length fore to aft of trailer.?
Perhaps broken at some point with a seam, but I think most are one continuous sheet about 5 ft. wide X the length of trailer. I plan on exploring replacing mine with numerous sections with a batten strip between each. If the design of the frame cross struts (floor joists) will permit.
Are any of you using a similar method? The advantage I think will be the ease of reopening. Plus the easier task of rehanging.
Of course I have yet to open the belly and may find nothing under there to attach to.
I have accumulated a couple of rolls of what I guess is fiberglass reinforced something. It is the outside panel for cheap above ground round swimming pools. (Found both rolls on the curb where people had discarded). The stuff is very tough and durable about 1/16 thick and happens to be airstream blue.
Unfortunately both are just 48" wide. So if I used it I would have to do it in the sections.
I had not thought of installing the studs as was suggested above but plan to explore that further. Sounds like a great tip.
Hello 1980 Ernie.
What make/model do you have? I ask becuse i have a 1980 Excella II and i seem to be the only one here with that Make/Model.
I was planning to do as you suggested and glue something to the frame between the bellyskin and frame. I did have corrosion between the 2 metals but it must be a slow process, wasnt too terribly bad EXCEPT where rust had collected on the skin and was wet under the bathroom. Big hole back there.
-Jason
Hi Jason,
I have a '86 34' LTD; the rust does not seem too bad but some of the screws holding the front pan have pulled through the pan. I will use a much larger washer when I re-attach it. By-the-by if some of you are getting rust due to water coming in from leaks in the walls you might wish to leave a small hole (glue a fine screen over it) in the center of the pan to drain out the water. rather than leave it.
Last edited by Ernie2007; 04-22-2004 at 01:33 PM..
Reason: grammar error
When people are talking about using rivets, are these the ones that have a rubber washer? (or something like rubber) and open up like a flower on the inside (for want of a better word) 4 loops that hold the rivet tight? Still have to clip the stem off and polish smooth.? Does anyone or everyone use these washers? silver suz
Plastic washers are advisable on the belly pan because of the tendancy for the head of the rivet to pull thry the aluminum belly skin. Using the olympic rivets on the belly is not really nessecary because they will not be seen and will not have water sitting in the mandrel hole.
-Jason
UWE , or others, let me ask you about the pan removal and reinstallation process. I have a 67 Caravel and I was under the impression that the outer skin for the upper body comes down over the belly skin at the seem at the floor, with the belly skin wrapping under the channel that sits on the plywood floor. Is this the case, and if so how do you replace it without lifting the body? I must be missing something here, because everyone is saying that this isnt that hard
Thanks
-Andrew
I have not responded to this thread earlier because I have been under the trailer reattaching the old belly pan. What a pain, I decided to use screws instead of pop rivets. My thought is if you ever need to get in there while out on the road, screws are easier than pop rivets to remove.
I found like many others the edge of the pan to be deteriorated, so I took galvanized flashing and reinforced the edge with that. Pop riveted it to the old aluminum pan, I hope that will last another 30 years. I do not think electrolysis will be a problem but who knows.
In looking at the pan whats strikes me, is they have spent a lot of time and trouble to seal these things but you still have big holes in the back at the waste dump and the dump hose/shore power box. I am going to try and at least seal these areas to varmints. I don't think you can seal it to dust and water.
UWE , or others, let me ask you about the pan removal and reinstallation process. I have a 67 Caravel and I was under the impression that the outer skin for the upper body comes down over the belly skin at the seem at the floor, with the belly skin wrapping under the channel that sits on the plywood floor. Is this the case, and if so how do you replace it without lifting the body? I must be missing something here, because everyone is saying that this isnt that hard
Thanks
-Andrew
The belly pans on the 74 models were:
Aluminum #3004 (type, alloy,coating)
.024" (thickness)
61.5 inch wide by various lengths depending on model. (i.e 287" on 31'cbath).
The part that you see when standing along side the trailer at the edges around the lower perimeter is a separate item know as "Banana Wrap". They extend up a short distance behind the lower sides and front & rear panels. Then they curve under the trailer and overlap the edge of the "bellyskin".
The Banana Wraps on the 74 models were:
Aluminum #3004 (type, alloy, coating) I don't know if it is coated or not.
.024" (thickness) (thinness )
22 3/8 inch wide x various lengths (with formed bend)
Suz,
You just described an olympic rivet to a tee. If you're planning on using them, get them without the neoprene washers and use Vulkem instead. Last much longer.
I don't as yet have an airstream (still searching), but I read some of these threads to gain knowledge for that day. In reading the post about replacing the belly panels, it seems that corrosion between the two dis-similar metals is of concern. I don't know if this will help, or even if it can be done, but here goes anyway. On boats, residential hot water tanks, inground pipe systems, etc., I have read of placing a sacrificial anode in the system. The idea is that this sacrificial anode is more succeptable to the forces of electrolysis than is either of the other two parent metals. As a result, the electrons migrate to the anode and corrode it rather than the parent metals. I don't know if or how this could be done with an A/S, but if it could, there would be no corrosion other than that at the anode, and this could be easily replaced. As to how to install it or where, or if it is practical I leave to those with more knowledge of the subject than I have. Just my two cents worth. DGR
All your examples show a prescense of liquid.
that is why the kits made for autos are not quite the greatest thing since sliced bread. Man I wish it'd work. I have watched a number of things I am/was fond of just rust/corrode away.
I guess you are right Jaco. Most probably you do need water to act as a conductor. I remember having a steel gas line replaced on my property years ago. The plumber had to dig a trench to remove the old line and replace it with a new line. I remember he put a cloth sack, not much bigger than a 5# sack of flour, into the trench next to the pipe. I asked him about it and he told me it was to act as an anode. Then again the ground is usually damp and this would provide the conductor. As I said originally, I don't know if this would work or not, just trying to offer another avenue to explore with the corrosion problem. Come to think of it, if it did work, trailer manufacturers would probable offer it in some form or another by now to help solve the problem.
Thanks Jaco. My confusion came from two things, One: William Henshall's body off restoration, where on his '50s era airstream the belly aluminum came up under the C channel on the floor and Two: the 60s Caravels banana wrap isnt very banana-ey as you can see here:
I guess there are so many model differnces I wont know zactly whats goin on till I dig into it in few weeks......Ill take pictures for reference tho
Thanks again
-Andrew
Oh by the way, the sign industry uses something called "Sintra" I belive it is a PVC. comes in 1/16th and 1/8th in thicknesses and is very durable and similar in flexibility to aluminum . Look for sign suppliers on the web for sources and pricing
-Andrew
The belly pans on the 74 models were:
Aluminum #3004 (type, alloy,coating)
.024" (thickness)
61.5 inch wide by various lengths depending on model. (i.e 287" on 31'cbath).
The part that you see when standing along side the trailer at the edges around the lower perimeter is a separate item know as "Banana Wrap". They extend up a short distance behind the lower sides and front & rear panels. Then they curve under the trailer and overlap the edge of the "bellyskin".
The Banana Wraps on the 74 models were:
Aluminum #3004 (type, alloy, coating) I don't know if it is coated or not.
.024" (thickness) (thinness )
22 3/8 inch wide x various lengths (with formed bend)
Jaco,
Yes the banana wraps are coated, and FWIW at least on my unit they lap on top of the lowest shell skin, not under it like the sketch shows...I have the same sketch That joint is covered by a piece of trim.
Aaron
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That joint is covered by a piece of trim.
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