Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 08-16-2003, 10:49 AM   #1
2 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 51
belly pan removal

Help anybody.....I am crawling around underneath looking for the best place to start pulling this belly pan. I have drilled out a couple of rivets that look to be about 3/16". Is there a better replacement or go with the same size rivets I took out? The more I look, the larger this task and its replacement gets. My original intent was to completely replace or repair the majority the plumbing before starting on my electrical system. With this in mind, is there a distinct avantage to removing the belly pan? There are lots of things to do now that my leaks seem to be under control. My floors are all solid, so besides replacing carpet and vinyl, I don't intend to pull them up. Any suggestions, comments, or advice?
__________________

__________________
Happy trails,
Skip & Betts
skip is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2003, 12:46 PM   #2
Creampuff
 
Creampuff's Avatar
 
1957 22' Flying Cloud
1971 31' Sovereign
1976 29' Ambassador
Malibu , California
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 513
Images: 60
In my humble opinion ,put the time somewhere else.The only wiring I believe you'll find is the 12V curbside framerail stuff that feeds the taillights /running lights, chargeline, etc. from the 7 pin connector. All 110V stuff is upside, at least on mine.
Not sure on plumbing-except of course if you have leaks in your black tank /Thetford connection area.I think most plumbing is also above floor level.
I'm using 1/8" poprivits and a 1" strap of aluminum on my bellypan which I think was an upgrade by the PO.
__________________

__________________
Murray
AIR #189

"If aluminum isn't magnetic- why am I so attracted to to it?"
Creampuff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2003, 02:47 PM   #3
2 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 51
Thanks, Murray. The strap you have on your belly pan must have been an up-grade. I don't see any evidence of one being on my Ambassador, but maybe that is the difference in the models. I really a novice, learning as I go. What do you think would be the best way to access wiring and plumbing in the walls? I figured I would be able to do both of them at the same time. Just looking and reading I am guessing that most of the wall coverings must come off. Drill the rivets, label, orient and set aside each piece. Thanks for your suggestions. Anything you can add is appreciated.
__________________
Happy trails,
Skip & Betts
skip is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2003, 05:10 PM   #4
Rivet Master
 
Ken J's Avatar
 
1956 22' Flying Cloud
Durango , Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: 1975 25' Tradewind
Posts: 3,363
Images: 14
I agree with Murray. I just removed and refastened my belly. Not too bad a job. I did it to check the frame and repaint the frame. When I put it back together I used stainless steel screws so it I ever need to drop it again it will be easy.

Ken J.
__________________
Ken J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2003, 07:31 PM   #5
Creampuff
 
Creampuff's Avatar
 
1957 22' Flying Cloud
1971 31' Sovereign
1976 29' Ambassador
Malibu , California
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 513
Images: 60
Skip
Although I can't speak of your model,in my Safari the plumbing follows the outside walls and can be accessed through the cabinetry or behind appliances or under the side gaucho. The drainage is all abs and supply is 1/2" flexible copper-both of which have long service life and unless you have a problem I would leave them alone.The taps can easily be rebuilt with new washers and plumbers grease the 110 V system is behind the interior wall skin,and again if it ain't broke why fix it? Much as i dislike aluminum wiring, it too can mostly be serviced/restored at exposed connections like fuse panels and outlets.
Ken's idea of screws is good but I find screws work loose really easily if you've got an unbalanced wheel assembly , or just because of the road vibtation.I would use some Vulcem or Locktite if I were going that route.
Personally-I had to draw the line on major teardowns when I bought 'Puff.I spent 12 years on an antique car and never really got to enjoy the thing.My policy now is if I can't get it back together before next weekend, it stays that way!I bought this one to enjoy the road- not the garage!
__________________
Murray
AIR #189

"If aluminum isn't magnetic- why am I so attracted to to it?"
Creampuff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2003, 07:45 AM   #6
Rivet Master
 
Ken J's Avatar
 
1956 22' Flying Cloud
Durango , Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: 1975 25' Tradewind
Posts: 3,363
Images: 14
I do use vulcum or silicone on the screws - that way they stay put.

And yes there is a balance between having it sit and all you do is work on it and using it. I spread my projects out between using the trailer rather than the other way around. I do get fustrated sometimes because I would much rather go camping anyday than work in the trailer. There have been many times I thought about just buying a new one.

Ken J.
__________________
Ken J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2003, 07:58 AM   #7
2 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 51
Murray, this may be the best piece of advice I have had since starting this project! I am going to take it to heart. My reasoning was, the more I exposed, the better idea I would have of over all function and where to go when ID'ing problems, but you are right, I have been through projects before. When I sold them, someone else enjoyed the fruits of time and effort invested.

This is a great forum for feed back and technical information.
My first foray was Vista windows and a few leaks. All my info came from this forum. It was almost like putting together an erector set. Advice from this forum took me right through step by step. Thanks for the advice. My wife, Betts, agrees and is ready to hit the road!
__________________

__________________
Happy trails,
Skip & Betts
skip is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Removing Belly Pan garp Belly Pans & Banana Wraps 5 07-06-2016 01:48 PM
Belly Pan Aluminium Streamsaver Belly Pans & Banana Wraps 5 09-08-2014 10:11 AM
removing corroded belly pan screws Cruiser Belly Pans & Banana Wraps 2 09-14-2003 01:17 PM
Belly skin removal Pat McSween Belly Pans & Banana Wraps 1 05-17-2003 08:23 AM
Need HELP! Need help quick - dropping the belly pan escapeez Belly Pans & Banana Wraps 8 12-30-2002 07:03 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:50 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.