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Old 08-22-2004, 02:25 PM   #29
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Actually I think my husband is right. He wants to build ramps (low ones, like you said) and also use a bunch of jack stands; just our luck the Big One will hit right when I start drilling out rivets. I was hoping just to get more jack stands and get started.
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Old 08-22-2004, 04:22 PM   #30
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Question questions...

Ken J-Silicone instead of Loc-tite on screws, is this better for some reason? Is stainless without any barrier is OK against the aluminum?

Pinkflamingoes-I never got an answer on the texture(I think it is age and wear on mine, now that I have been under her several times!) Good ideas on the ramps...

So, It is easy to loose questions here if the thread goes a differnt direction...so I will bring it back to my previous questions about replacing the belly pan in 48" sections as previously started by malconium...

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Originally Posted by blrpix
I like the idea of the sections so I can get into different areas of the belly if I need to do repairs, etc. (instaling a grey tank, so for maintainence, etc). This makes the idea of strips and 48" OC apealing. Then every two crossmembers are accessable. Also what about the idea of something between the frame and the aluminum belly, so they don't touch? This peice could be the peice that the 2-48" pieces are attached to...I don't think you would need a cover peice if the backing peice they attached to was 2" wide running along the frame, but what this is and how it attaches to the frame is another story (Steel welded to the frame and then a barier)? Also, has anybody thought about using ALL srews instead of screws and/or rivets so the panels can be dropped easily? I was thinking of the galvanized ones with the rubber washers behind the metal washer, so no steel touched the aluminum? Lastly, what about the curved sections on the corners? How are those repaired/replaced?
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Old 08-22-2004, 08:17 PM   #31
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Silicone is what I had around - lock tight would work as well, so would vulcem - just something to keep them from loosening.

Have had no problems with SS against aluminum - I know many others who use SS

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Old 11-03-2006, 06:37 PM   #32
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belly pan aluminum

Can anyone tell me the difference, specifically here at www.metalsupermarkets.com, what the difference is between heat-treatable and non-heat treatable aluminum?

What I should say, maybe, is which one do I buy for my new belly pan? We're replacing the whole pan on my '67 Tradewind.

Thanks
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Old 11-03-2006, 06:55 PM   #33
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aluminum

Some alloys like 5053-h34 can only be heat treated or hardened one time. They cannot be annealed or softened. 2024-T3 is in a hardened condition and can be annealed to make it soft and then reheat treated to a condition called T4. 6061-T6 is a weldable alloy with good anti corrosion properties but must be reheat treated after welding in order to get its strength back around the weld. For a belly pan I would use the 6061-T6

Kip
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Old 11-03-2006, 09:33 PM   #34
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Thank you!
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