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Old 10-12-2009, 06:12 AM   #1
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1976 31' Sovereign
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banana wrap holds water - can I drill drain holes?

Our banana wrap seems to hold water after a rain, washing, etc. and slowly "weaps" out. Can I install a handful of drain holes to help dry this out?
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Old 10-12-2009, 06:26 AM   #2
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The bigger concern is how the water is getting into the banana wrap? If it is in the wrap it might be affecting your plywood on its way there. Is the beltline sealed well?
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Old 10-12-2009, 06:33 AM   #3
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Sure you can...Just remember that a hole may also allow water. You may want to investigate the weepage path.

Not sure what your efforts to date have been on sealing the shell, but with a 33 year old trailer it is an inevitable part of one's maintenance plan. Plumbing vents, marker lights, and any other opening in the shell, or any seam are potential leak points.



Best of Luck,

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Old 10-12-2009, 06:40 AM   #4
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What year and model trailer do you have?Can you attach pictures?
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Old 10-12-2009, 07:57 PM   #5
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Drill away
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Old 10-12-2009, 08:24 PM   #6
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yes but...

Yes you can drill a couple of holes HOWEVER as others have posted, you have a leak or leaks somewhere that need to be addressed asap.

UWE - who does beautiful work actually installed a twelve volt computer fan to help ventilate his belly space. I think he covered it with a sealed hatch for travel, used it in camps. Search for his restoration thread under "Stainless Steel Frame".

I've been chasing a rogue leak around my rear windows for a while now. I think I'm going to have to get an RV shop to pressure test the hull to see where bubbles blow out when it's wetted.

Paula
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Old 10-13-2009, 06:44 AM   #7
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the way the skins were put on is the side panels first which cover the C channel and floor edge.

The banana skins are riveted over those so water runs down the sides into the banana skin and out the seam of the belly pan.

You can consider putting a small bead of caulking on the belt molding?

But I just let it in and out.
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Old 09-27-2010, 11:33 AM   #8
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My plans are to add to what auto manufacturers use in their products, rubber drain tubes. These allow drainage & breathing yet prevents water from splashing up into the holes.

What I have discovered after obtaining & rebuilding my '76 Sovereign is that AIRSTREAM fail to seal the 'underbite' lap where the bellypan wraps over (instead of under) the sidewall skins. Big mistake!! Even though it was/is the production method.
Since this joint was not sealed it was a HUGE water inlet with no place to go except linger it the perimeters of our trailers. Being soaked up by what little insulation was there and into the wood floor like a sponge and causing a slow death -by corrosion- to the frame members, mostly the outriggers and of course wood floor. Was this "Planned Obsolencence?" ARRGGH!! Shame on AIRSTREAM!
Think about this, water in with no way out? Hmm, would we build a house this way?

Anyway, I have replace several outriggers, oddly most were on the roadside, replaced the entire floor with R13 fiberglass & new perimeter belly wraps and will be sealing this critical area at the belt line (with VULKEM) & installing automotive type body drain tubes throughout as well.
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Old 09-27-2010, 01:28 PM   #9
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My 1976 31' had 11 leaks from the door to the front rib. I had to remove the inside skin to find them all. The biggest belly pan leak I've found yet is the step release lever slot. It's a designed leak and there's no designed solution. In a heavy rain this directs a minimum of a gallon of water into the belly pan. The water doesn't stop at the banana wraps, it keeps going. There's no drainage and no air movement to dry it out under the frame so the water sits and rusts out the frame.

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When I insulated I layered aluminum screen on the bottom and laid bubble foil insulation on top of the screen. The screen's job is to keep an air space at the bottom level. I drilled 1/4" drain holes as well as added screened air vents to the 5 bays that enjoy the step release water bath feature.

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My trailer isn't a trip trailer. It's a 3 season sit and rot model. I doubt I'll tow it 5 days a year.

Gary
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Old 09-27-2010, 01:41 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foiled Again View Post
Yes you can drill a couple of holes HOWEVER as others have posted, you have a leak or leaks somewhere that need to be addressed asap.

UWE - who does beautiful work actually installed a twelve volt computer fan to help ventilate his belly space. I think he covered it with a sealed hatch for travel, used it in camps. Search for his restoration thread under "Stainless Steel Frame".

I've been chasing a rogue leak around my rear windows for a while now. I think I'm going to have to get an RV shop to pressure test the hull to see where bubbles blow out when it's wetted.

Paula
I have been considering the muffin fan ventilation route as a preemptive measure since I read about it here on the forum.
I have some questions which I hope someone can answer:
2007 30' classic:

1) Are the cross members stamped with holes between "compartments" so air is free to move between? (including the outrigger compartments)
2) Is there, and does, the butyl tape between the frame and belly pan have voids where water is free to run from compartment to compartment?
3) Does anyone have pictures of a late model Classic frame?

I know that this unit essentially has two belly pan areas (fore and aft of the holding tanks) so I would have two have two ventilation "systems".

Thanks for your help!
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Old 09-27-2010, 06:36 PM   #11
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Fix the source of the leak and your problems will go away. More than likely its the molding.
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