Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 04-01-2007, 09:10 AM   #1
Rivet Master
 
soldiermedic's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Florissant , USA
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,083
Attachment of underbelly to a new frame

I have recently been pondering with my new frame how difficult it is going to be to attach a belly pan to it after the coach shell is dropped back onto the new floor. Someone told me that you need to have the belly skin on before the shell is attached to the floor. I am not sure if this is correct or not, but I wanted to ask the people that would know.

Has anyone done a shell off frame and floor resto that they had to put a new belly pan on? I will be doing it myself after it leaves the shop, so having it done there will not be possible.

Steve
__________________

__________________
soldiermedic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2007, 09:24 AM   #2
Rivet Monster
 
wahoonc's Avatar

 
1975 31' Sovereign
1980 31' Excella II
Sprung Leak , North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 7,174
Images: 40
Steve,
The factory puts the belly pans on first, then rolls the frame over for the shell. But I don't see why you can't do it afterwards. Just make sure you know where all your attachment points are I would suggest using a chalk line to make where you want to run your rivet lines.

Aaron
__________________

__________________
....so many Airstreams....so little time...
WBCCI #XXXX AIR #2495
Why are we in this basket...and where are we going
wahoonc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2007, 10:00 AM   #3
uwe
418
 
uwe's Avatar
 
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley , California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,767
Images: 41
Send a message via Skype™ to uwe
Quote:
Originally Posted by soldiermedic
I have recently been pondering with my new frame how difficult it is going to be to attach a belly pan to it after the coach shell is dropped back onto the new floor. Someone told me that you need to have the belly skin on before the shell is attached to the floor. I am not sure if this is correct or not, but I wanted to ask the people that would know.

Has anyone done a shell off frame and floor resto that they had to put a new belly pan on? I will be doing it myself after it leaves the shop, so having it done there will not be possible.

Steve
Steve,

There were different methods of attaching the circumference of the belly skin over the years.
My 63 had it's belly skin wrapped into the floor channel. Without thinking much, I just copied the original design...didn't need to go through this agony, actually.
Your 68 has side skins that wrap under and become part of the belly pan.
Lynn's 55 FC's belly slides between the outer skin and the floor channel.
My 71 had belly pan pieces that went over teh outer skin, and were covered by a rub rail.
The only instance where the belly outer part needs to be done first is where it is wrapped. And even that can be altered.
As far as teh lower, flat pieces, those can usually be replaced individually, after the shell is installed.
__________________
Uwe
www.area63productions.com
uwe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2007, 10:05 AM   #4
Silver Mist
 
LI Pets's Avatar
 
1977 31' Sovereign
Riverhead , New York
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,008
Images: 28
I was thinking about the rivet thing.

I replaced a section behind the wheels to the bumper, I had trouble locating the old frame holes where the rivets were.

I used self tapping hex head screws, worked great real fast and you can take them out later easier than drilling rivets.
__________________
Bob
'77 Sovereign Intl 31' CB
WBCCI R2 Rep VAC 11411 Metro NY VP

LI Pets is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2007, 10:33 AM   #5
Rivet Master
 
soldiermedic's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Florissant , USA
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,083
When I get it back, it will be the shell on a new frame and floor with nothing below. I will have a resto shop that I am working with do the belly pan. I just want to ensure I dont medd up the monocoque design, and loose structural integrity. It is debatable if I want to use allclad for the belly since it will never be seen, but I think it isnt that much more expensive vs the new stuff that dents easier.

As long as the pan can be secured, and it is no concern to safety then I am happy.

Steve
__________________
soldiermedic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2007, 10:46 AM   #6
uwe
418
 
uwe's Avatar
 
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley , California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,767
Images: 41
Send a message via Skype™ to uwe
Quote:
Originally Posted by LI Pets
I was thinking about the rivet thing.

I replaced a section behind the wheels to the bumper, I had trouble locating the old frame holes where the rivets were.

I used self tapping hex head screws, worked great real fast and you can take them out later easier than drilling rivets.
Bob,
Do you remember the brand and size screw you used?
I have some of the kind with a tiny drill bit type top on the screw.
I tried this a few times when I built my 63, and found the little drill tops on the screws wearing out too fast, way before they made a hole in the frame material. They did work well when going into aluminum.
__________________
Uwe
www.area63productions.com
uwe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2007, 05:14 AM   #7
Rivet Master
 
boatdoc's Avatar
 
1973 Argosy 26
Norristown , Pennsylvania
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 644
Images: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by soldiermedic
I have recently been pondering with my new frame how difficult it is going to be to attach a belly pan to it after the coach shell is dropped back onto the new floor. Someone told me that you need to have the belly skin on before the shell is attached to the floor. I am not sure if this is correct or not, but I wanted to ask the people that would know.

Has anyone done a shell off frame and floor resto that they had to put a new belly pan on? I will be doing it myself after it leaves the shop, so having it done there will not be possible.

Steve
Hi Steve; I have build a new SS frame, but before I have installed the shell, I have insulated it with Prodex on top of 1" urethane strips. This provided air barrier. Because I was not sure where exactly the appliances will end up, due to my changes in the interior, I could not install plumbing. This kept me from installing the belly pan. What I did was, I pre-fitted the new belly pan and installed it dry using #10-32 SS Truss head screws drilled and tapped into the frame. Now after I finish my plumbing I will prime and paint the belly skins and reinstall them when ready. To soften the contact area of screw heads to aluminum I will use #10 nylon washers. This method will help in the future should underbelly require inspection. Thanks "Boatdoc".
__________________
boatdoc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2007, 10:42 PM   #8
New Member
 
Currently Looking...
Bisbee , Arizona
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4
Belly pan?

Hi,

I'm new to the Airstream Forum as I have just begun to look for one. Been a dream for years. There is a 27' Overlander for sale (listed here) near me. I've contacted the seller and am waiting to hear. He mentions in his ad that the belly pan is mostly gone. Now, I'm ignorant. What is the belly pan? I assume form all I've read here that it's some kind of covering on the underside. Is it something one can purchase? Or does it have to be fabricated for an older model ('67)? Is it expensive? I'm in a small town with no RV etc. shop. Would a sheet metal person repair/replace it? Thanks much for any insight.
__________________
cordesstudio is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2007, 12:06 AM   #9
3 Rivet Member
 
wayne.yl's Avatar
 
1977 31' Sovereign
1992 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Salem , Oregon
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 168
Images: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by cordesstudio
Hi,

I'm new to the Airstream Forum as I have just begun to look for one. Been a dream for years. There is a 27' Overlander for sale (listed here) near me. I've contacted the seller and am waiting to hear. He mentions in his ad that the belly pan is mostly gone. Now, I'm ignorant. What is the belly pan? I assume form all I've read here that it's some kind of covering on the underside. Is it something one can purchase? Or does it have to be fabricated for an older model ('67)? Is it expensive? I'm in a small town with no RV etc. shop. Would a sheet metal person repair/replace it? Thanks much for any insight.
Cordesstudio,
I had the same dream for several years until I finally took the AS plunge.
You are smarter than I in that I did very little research before I bought. I also mistakenly took the seller at his word when he said everything was in "perfect" working order on the trailer, like the brakes! Oh was I mistaken. Anyway I say this because my advice for you is to go over any trailer you are thinking of buying with a fine tooth comb. If you don't know what to look for, ask here on the forum, there's plenty of experts to rely on. Regarding the belly pan.... If it is missing, that is probably because it either rotted off or was taken off for repairs. Either way, you now get to look at the lower frame close up. There are other vital components to inspect down there as well, like the amoount of rust and corrosion to the frame, the condition of the black water tank, fresh water tank, the axles and brakes. You can get aluminum to make another belly pan and if you are extremely fortunate, That is all you will have to do to the trailer. My guess is, its only the beginning.
good luck,

Wayne
__________________
wayne.yl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2007, 01:53 AM   #10
New Member
 
Currently Looking...
Bisbee , Arizona
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4
fine-tooth comb

Hi Wayne,

I'm sure that's excellent advice. That's one reason I'm limitng my search to somewhat nearby so that I can look at it carefully. I have had a little experience in that I bought a small RV before I saw it. I did have an elderly uncle who was in the area look it over but he missed plenty, like the spongy floor, which ended up needing to be shored up, at sigificant expense! You all seem to be very experienced and I'm grateful that you're here.

So do you think it would be difficult and/or expensive to replace the belly pan? Is it just a straight sheet of metal (afixed as decribed in previous posts) or are there a lot of openings etc. for outlets etc. ? My RV doesn't have any kind of covering underneath. You can get under it and look directly at the gray and black water tanks and connections, shocks etc.TIA
__________________
cordesstudio is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2007, 07:43 AM   #11
uwe
418
 
uwe's Avatar
 
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley , California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,767
Images: 41
Send a message via Skype™ to uwe
Belly Pan

Quote:
Originally Posted by cordesstudio
Hi,

I'm new to the Airstream Forum as I have just begun to look for one. Been a dream for years. There is a 27' Overlander for sale (listed here) near me. I've contacted the seller and am waiting to hear. He mentions in his ad that the belly pan is mostly gone. Now, I'm ignorant. What is the belly pan? I assume form all I've read here that it's some kind of covering on the underside. Is it something one can purchase? Or does it have to be fabricated for an older model ('67)? Is it expensive? I'm in a small town with no RV etc. shop. Would a sheet metal person repair/replace it? Thanks much for any insight.
If only the flat pieces of the belly pan are missing, then that is not a catastrophe. However, there are 4 banana wraps ( the curved sections underneath each of the corners of the body). Those sections would be hard to find in good, original condition. Your trailers sides might wrap under to form the very outside wraps of the belly pan. Many 67's were built like that.
There are some openings in every belly pan, but nothing that a set of decent hand tools and average skill can't master. The metal for the belly pan is not a high grade aluminum, usually thinner than the skin, and of a lesser quality. For maing long cuts in aluminum sheeting, you might want to invest in some electric metal shears.
A forums search would reveal what others have used, but I bought my belly metal at Pilot Supplies, Avionics, and Homebuilt Aircraft Parts from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty Co.
__________________
Uwe
www.area63productions.com
uwe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2007, 09:26 AM   #12
New Member
 
Currently Looking...
Bisbee , Arizona
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4
Thanks Uwe, Belly pan business much clearer now. Sounds doable.
__________________

__________________
cordesstudio is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Oval Window Frame Replacement MikeMikeMI Windows & Screens 8 12-30-2007 11:49 AM
year frame size reduced yukonsilver Airstream History 1 04-19-2004 01:53 PM
Underbelly Blues hex Belly Pans & Banana Wraps 3 10-24-2002 09:47 PM
Center folding bed attachment uwe Cabinets, Counter Tops & Furnishings 6 06-30-2002 09:01 PM
Window Frame Removal 64GT Windows & Screens 4 04-09-2002 01:40 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:34 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.