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Old 04-06-2011, 01:07 PM   #1
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1964 26' Overlander
Richmond , Virginia
Join Date: Feb 2011
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Rivet '64 -Do I HAVE to drill out the buck rivets?

My belly pan is in 2 sheets. There are no holes, but I want to be able to check everything down there, and possibly replace the insulation, and while I'm there, I may take measurements on putting in grey water tanks since I don't have them now.

However, my issue is that my belly pan is in great shape, and that on the 64, it is buck riveted to the sides right near the bottom.

It looks like I should be able to take out the rivets down the cener overlap, and then drop the pan on the ground. The AS is on 8 jack stands now, and the tires aren't touching. I'm taking the axles off anyway to replace them, so they will be out of the way.

In the end, it seems like the belly pan would hang down from the sides, and I would maybe have like a 3 foot gap down the center where the two sides of the belly pan wouldn't touch.

If you're only painting the frame, and not replacing the belly pan, can I leave the sides buck riveted on? I realize it will be a hassle, but as much as installing a couple hundred olympic bulb rivets?

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Old 06-13-2011, 09:16 AM   #2
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1961 22' Safari
Burlington , Vermont
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What did you end up doing? I think I'm in a similar conundrum.

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Old 06-14-2011, 07:48 AM   #3
Rivet Master
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1964 26' Overlander
Richmond , Virginia
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 790
Images: 35
Nothing so far. I've been too busy. My current plan of action is to finish waterproofing and then do the plumbing. I finally found out where the rot was coming from near my door - a poorly replaced fridge vent. Whoever did the service ignored a big gap in the inner seal and water just poured in. After that, I add my second fantastic fan, then finish out the plumbing and try to turn the water on for the first time. (all my pipes were burst). I'm taking part of the belly pan off, but to be honest, it looks like if you jack up the AS high enough, it looks like the sides can hang down, and you can just work around it. I believe that's going to be my plan.
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Old 06-14-2011, 09:12 AM   #4
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1991 34' Excella
1963 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Central , Mississippi
Join Date: Nov 2006
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If your 64 is like my 63, the exterior buck rivets are only 1/2 of the problem. The pan is not only behind the shell, it's folded over inside the wall. This requires pulling the inside skin.
Hi Ho Silver RV! Vernon, Sarah, Mac the Border Collie -
A honkin' long 34' named AlumaTherapy
and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly
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Old 06-14-2011, 09:35 AM   #5
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1963 26' Overlander
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,640
My 63 wasn't folded over, but I'd definitely try your "hang-down" solution first.

If that investigation shows that you either need to do some major floor/frame work from below, or that you need to do some further investigation, then another alternative is to cut the bellypan straight down the sides right where the curve stops and it "levels" out. This would effectively leave you with banana wraps and straight sections. Then you should be able to perform any repairs or investigation without drilling out all those rivets (which effectively removes the link between the shell and the floor and presents many new challenges).
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belly pan, frame, rivets

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