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Old 06-11-2011, 06:41 PM   #15
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1973 27' Overlander
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Thumbs up

I'd probably go with Twinkies reccomendation, but I'd replace the rasp with my Dremel tool and a rotary grinding bit

good luck
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Old 06-11-2011, 06:50 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by barts View Post
When I repaired ours I used a MIG welder, round file and carbide burr in a die grinder - not a very difficult repair. The slots need to be similar, but by most metal working standards there's plenty of tolerance for differences.

Our right side wore down as well... I made 'em match w/ the welder. Note that you can easily trace the good side and use that to match up the other side.

- Bart
That's what I was thinking I would do as I read thru this thread - I doubt
JB weld would last long in this application.

Brian.
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Old 06-11-2011, 07:02 PM   #17
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The right side of mine was also bad. Plus, the lower step no longer would hang parallel to the ground and was tilting forward significantly. and, the steel band iron accross the top of the assembly had failed making the step even more spongy. I coughed up $650 for a new step and welding of all the new components.
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Old 06-11-2011, 07:59 PM   #18
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BE CAREFUL, when the steps broke on my 98 AS, it cost me $60K. I went to order the parts and my wife started talking to the salesman before it was over we had a 2010 AS.
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Old 06-11-2011, 09:12 PM   #19
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What is the top T attached to?
It doesn't really attach to anything. I tucks into the 90 degree corner formed by the back and top of the compartment that holds the steps. When they are the correct length, you slip them onto the back of the bottom step while raising it a little. When the step is lowered to the correct position, it moves inward pushing the top into the (upper) corner. Easy!
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Old 06-12-2011, 06:48 PM   #20
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Thanks for the tips & hints, boys. I took a tape measure to it today and noticed that the factory cutout (left side) is about 1/8" further from the top of the outrigger than the worn side (right side). My guess is that the two sides need to be about the same distance from the top of of the outrigger to bring things to a sort of level, so I'll grind away on both sides until there's some symmetry there. Suspect that this will leave the step slightly off-level, but that's probably agreeable. I'll post back with measurements and results as I get the work done.

Brian, Susan found a step like you're describing on-line someplace. She just wants to buy one of those and let the steps be an unused cosmetic feature. I, on the other hand, see this as an opportunity to crank up the power tools and "fix something". I guess it's just a guy thing. Never pass up an opportunity to fire up a new tool....

Jim
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Old 06-13-2011, 07:21 AM   #21
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I got both of my steps from guys putting pre-made steps in. They cut off a few steps to make it fit and gave me the left overs. Home Depot is the place.

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Old 06-13-2011, 07:35 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vswingfield View Post
It doesn't really attach to anything. I tucks into the 90 degree corner formed by the back and top of the compartment that holds the steps. When they are the correct length, you slip them onto the back of the bottom step while raising it a little. When the step is lowered to the correct position, it moves inward pushing the top into the (upper) corner. Easy!
I have one larger one of those braces, and it goes in the center of the step, rather than 2 small ones on the outside. I'm sure the 2 smaller ones are more stable. But anyway, I think this is just to support the lower step; I don't think it'll do much to support a wobbly top step.
Replacement outriggers are surprisingly inexpensive...but the job of replacing them is quite involved, what with all that has to be dis-assembled in order to get at them.
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Old 06-18-2011, 08:33 PM   #23
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Looks like you guys got it exactly right, And thanks again for the tips. I simply put a de-burr tool on the drill and shaped things up. The right (worn) side needed cleaning up with the tool. Then I had to grind about 1/8" out of the top of the left side (factory original, not worn at all). Everything locks into place just fine now. This forum is a great place for info!

Thanks guys.

Jim
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