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fastrob · 09-17-2007, 06:09 AM

An old full timer told me the most dangerous part of an RV is the steps.
I agree.
With the morning dew I slipped off the steps, hard.
No permanant damage, thankfully.
Questions:
1. How to remove the old non stick material?
2. How to reapply new non stick material to my aluminum steps?
3. Are there other considerations? Should I replace the bolts and hangers too?

R

overlander63 · 09-17-2007, 08:46 AM

I used a "cookie wheel" and a 90 degree die grinder to remove the old stuff. It came right off, of course, most everything would @30,000 rpm...

Jim & Susan · 09-17-2007, 10:53 AM

You can buy peel and stick non-skid material at the hardware store.

As far as the bolts, etc. Does the step assembly feel sturdy when you put weight on it? Mine didn't. It turns out one of the bolts had broken sometime in the past and the PO had replaced it with a non-standard bolt assembly. You can still buy those bolts from Airstream, but they're pricey. Each bolt assembly, consisting of 4 or 5, peices runs about $15. WHat I did was to remove one of the bolts from the bottom step and repair the upper step to function properly. Now I just use the upper step and keep the lower one folded up. Some day I'll get around to fixing the lower one, more pressing issues at the moment.

Jim

DEITZ645 · 02-01-2009, 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by overlander63

I used a "cookie wheel" and a 90 degree die grinder to remove the old stuff. It came right off, of course, most everything would @30,000 rpm...

Terry,
I am about to attempt to remove the old non-skid on my '87 Excella and was just wondering what a "cookie wheel" and a "90 degree die grinder" is? I have a grinder, but I do not know that I would want to attempt removing the non-skid sticker on my steps.

**Stefrobrts** · 02-01-2009, 11:58 AM

I took one of those door mats with the bumpy rubber things sticking up, made to knock the dirt off your shoes, and trimmed it to the size of the step, then screwed it down with stainless self-tapping screws. Not slippery now, and helps keep some of the dirt out of the trailer.

When I bought the trailer the PO had made a brace that went from the frame where the step is mounted to the back side of the bottom step, and it made the step more stable. It's removable, just a notched rod really, and I've never used it.

Guido · 02-01-2009, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEITZ645

Terry,
I am about to attempt to remove the old non-skid on my '87 Excella and was just wondering what a "cookie wheel" and a "90 degree die grinder" is? I have a grinder, but I do not know that I would want to attempt removing the non-skid sticker on my steps.

I think he's talking about this:
http://www.levineautoparts.com/3mrolsurcond.html

Airslide · 02-01-2009, 08:32 PM

Glad you are ok.. that could be a nasty fall. It makes my back and butt hurt to think about it..

Vin

ROBERT CROSS · 02-02-2009, 05:31 AM

If the DW has an "old" hair dryer or Iron, I have used both to heat the old non-slip material to peel it off.

SteveH · 02-02-2009, 05:38 AM

I used one of those scrapers that hold a razor blade to take the old stuff off the steps on our '75, but it was already coming loose at the corners and edges. Replaced it with the same sort of non-slip stuff...... from Home Depot as I remember.

The thing is, as these steps get older, the lower step gets a sag placing it at an angle, which in itself, and contribute to a slip.

Because of this, I've seen people use a wooden step in place of the first step of the fold down.

DEITZ645 · 02-02-2009, 05:50 AM

Thanks for the replies everybody. If it ever warms up here in PA I think I am going to try the heat gun / razor scraper combo. I guess I could disassemble the steps and bring the step trads in the house and work on them too. I have always wondered how they come apart and go together. I guess now is as good a time as any

.

The current pads on our '87 are starting to lift at the corners so it should come up pretty easily. The '87 is a double door coach so I am going to have twice the fun.

Quote:

The thing is, as these steps get older, the lower step gets a sag placing it at an angle, which in itself, and contribute to a slip.

Our front door bottom step has that sagging problem. It isn't too bad, but I notice it and that's what counts.

I remedied the sag by using a section of wire coat hanger where the top steps supports the bottom step. It brings the bottom step level again and you really don't notice the hangers. I will take a picture and post it here. It is really an inexpensive solution to the problem.

AIR-Quarius · 02-02-2009, 06:20 AM

Depending on your height, some of us have to 'sort of' watch our heads. and our step as we maneuver thru the door (s)...I recarpeted mine with indoor outdoor and pay more attention to not useing the steps by building up another thing to step down on...so this year we used pallets with a wood surface applied...this did away with having to step down on only one step and onto solid ground quicker...I am a perfectionist, and sometimes the sound and vibration of hitting the second step was too un-nerving. So I slid it out, folded it up and used the pallet platform instead. Remember the age of our AS, I am pretty sure the new AS's have much more studier steps to rely on.

ROBERT CROSS · 02-02-2009, 08:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEITZ645

try the heat gun / razor scraper combo.

Good choice, but I've found the blades not very durable. A good gasket scrapper from NAPA etc. will work, they are very sharp, varying width's and quite a bit safer to use, secure handle and no blades brake.

Stanley Hand Tools :* 78-427 *-* Gasket Scrapper