Silver Paint vs Clearcoating the Finish

[t_birder]

Hi guys,
tkendall is right. To get that great polished look isn't easy, but if you can muster up the energy just one more time, it's worth it.
Now one option I didn't see mentioned (or I just missed it) is acid washing. This will leave it a uniform off white. Not as pretty as a polish job, but better than a camper with stains stripes and corrosion.
But no matter what type of finish you choose, if you put Sharkhide on it when your done, you won't have to work on the finish again. There is a certain ammount of maintainence, but its no more than you would do to your tow vehicle. Just use a mild soap and water to keep it clean, and once evry couple years, just wipe another coat of Sharkhide on and that's pretty much it.
Hope this helps,
Clint

[t_birder]

Originally Posted by Alumatube

Hi Clint!

Did you realize both you and soldiermedic, who posted just below your initial response to this thread, are from O'Fallon, just in different states???

One of those odd coincidences...

And look at Steve showing off his new trailer!

Susan

Edit: I see you looking, Vaughan!

Hey Susan, No I didn't notice that. But O'Fallon Mo is not quite an hour from me.
Clint

[Alumatube]

Question for you, Clint. From what I understand it is an absolute NO-NO to acid-wash an A/S exterior, due to the acid being captured around the rivets where it can't easily be washed off and over time eating away at the aluminum there. Do you have any long-term results on your acid-wash finishes?

Thanks,
Susan

[soldiermedic]

Mark from Branson acid washed all of the Airstreams that he polishes.

Guess he didn't know.

Steve

[Alumatube]

That's only what I've seen on quite a few forums posts--I have not experienced this myself, so was curious.

Susan

[t_birder]

Originally Posted by Alumatube

Question for you, Clint. From what I understand it is an absolute NO-NO to acid-wash an A/S exterior, due to the acid being captured around the rivets where it can't easily be washed off and over time eating away at the aluminum there. Do you have any long-term results on your acid-wash finishes?

Thanks,
Susan

Hi Susan,
Well to be honest with you, I've only done a few campers. But I don't see why the rivets on the A/S exterior is any different than the riveted skins on any of the other things (trailers, boats, and aircraft) that I've done over the years. First of all, I use only my cleaner and nothing else. It's not near as destructive as some of the other acids people try to use, but it does a great job. I just make sure I do a good rinse and that's it. Once that's done, I put a couple coats of My metal protectant on and that seals it completely. To date (almost twenty years) I've not been informed of any problems what so ever on the riveted items that I, or my customers have done.
I don't have any shots of the aluminum campers I've done (I am going to start collecting them though) over the years, but I have shots of things like boats. If you want, let me know and I'll try to post a shot.
Clint

[t_birder]

ckeysor vbmenu_register("postmenu_", true);
WBCCI 11067 WDCU



Profile: 1986 25' Sovereign
Atlanta, Georgia Posts: 87
Status: Online

clear coating
I followed your link to your home page and that looks like an interesting product.

I have stipped a good chunk of our 86 Airstream Soveriegn and polishing it up. I don't want a mirror finish and I don't really want to polish every year so your product might have an application.

I have three questions. How much would be needed for our 25' trailer? Does your product leave the metal with any different effect (matte, satin, depth, etc.)? As I mentioned I would prefer to not have a mirror bright finish so some dulling is preferred. And lastly since I am polishing the skin to remove oxidation do I need to rough up the surface in any way before applying?

Thanks.
__________________
Chris Keysor
WBCCI 11067
1986 Sovereign 25' CB
2007 Chevy Silverado 1500
2007 Toyota Land Cruiser

Hi Chris,
You can put two real good coats on a trailer that size with about two to three quarts.
Once Sharkhide is applied, when you look at it streight on, it's invisible. But when you look down the side of your camper, it will have a shiny look. Kind of like its allways wet.
After you get the finish you want, other than cleaning off the polish residue, you don't need to do a thing to get Sharkhide to adhere to the camper. One of the demonstrations I give, is I wipe a coat on a piece of aluminum foil, let it dry (about 60 to 90 seconds), and crumple it up. Then smooth it back out. And I promise, you won't see a single crack, chip or flake.
Hope I covered your questions.
Clint

[Alumatube]

Thanks, Clint! That is very good to know! And I am sure you would have had people contacting you if they had issues.

I would love to see a few shots if you can post them easily.

Thanks for the info!

Susan

Originally Posted by t_birder

Hi Susan,
Well to be honest with you, I've only done a few campers. But I don't see why the rivets on the A/S exterior is any different than the riveted skins on any of the other things (trailers, boats, and aircraft) that I've done over the years. First of all, I use only my cleaner and nothing else. It's not near as destructive as some of the other acids people try to use, but it does a great job. I just make sure I do a good rinse and that's it. Once that's done, I put a couple coats of My metal protectant on and that seals it completely. To date (almost twenty years) I've not been informed of any problems what so ever on the riveted items that I, or my customers have done.
I don't have any shots of the aluminum campers I've done (I am going to start collecting them though) over the years, but I have shots of things like boats. If you want, let me know and I'll try to post a shot.
Clint

[Inland RV Center, In]

An acid bath for an Airstream or Argosy, is a NO, NO, NO.

Why?

A pressure washer, will not remove all the acid that gets under the rivet heads.

In time, perhaps 3 to 4 years, corrosion will appear around many rivet heads.

Each of those rivets is a water leak, until the rivets are replaced, with Olympics and Vulkem sealer.

Polishing the trailer, waxing the trailer, clear coating the trailer, or painting the trailer with an automotive paint, will not stop the corrosion.

Almost every polish job that comes into our shop, that was polished a couple of years ago, or so, has the same universal complaint.

I have water leaks, lots of them. What can I do?

What you can do, is don't allow anyone to give the trailer an acid bath, unless they are willing to give you at least a 5 year written warranty, for any water leaks caused by rivet leaks.

Then be prepared for a, well, but, but, I never heard, etc, narration.

Andy

[tslanier]

Andy,
What is the approx cost to paint an 87 34'?

[Foiled Again]

Originally Posted by Alumatube

Question for you, Clint. From what I understand it is an absolute NO-NO to acid-wash an A/S exterior, due to the acid being captured around the rivets where it can't easily be washed off and over time eating away at the aluminum there. Do you have any long-term results on your acid-wash finishes?

Thanks,
Susan

Susan, I am NOT a vintage owner, so I won't pretend to be an expert, but I do remember high school chemistry. I think it's possible that the whole acid wash no-no is a "rule" that isn't backed up by actual facts.

MOST acids are unstable and break down quickly so they do not stay on surfaces for days or even hours. Many break down simply by adding water... the hydrogen and oxygen molecules in the water cause the acid to decompose by bonding with molecules in the acid... and of course the water also dilutes the acidity of any acid. Enough water and the acid simply is too wimpy to work. Depending on the acid used AND on several other conditions like sunlight, the acid may all be gone within 15 minutes of rinsing.

Now if I were ambitious (or nuts ) enough to want to polish an Airstream I'd probably get some clearcoated aluminum pieces, rivet them together, then acid wash them, wait a day or two and get out the magnifying glass and look at the rivets and seams. Perhaps I'd even disassemble the scraps to check under the overlap.

Paula Ford

[Bob Thompson]

My memory of chemistry in college generally duplicates what Paula Ford said above. Once a molecule of acid combines with say a molecule of metal, it changes and is no longer acid. The acid is quickly transformed into a product which is no longer a theat to the metal molecules. At least that's the way I remember it. What I'm unclear about is what it turns into. I think it turns into a salt and as such, it attracts moisture and it's the continuous presence of moisture which may be the culprit in causing oxidation, damaging the metal over time.

[tslanier]

Bob,
How long ago was yours painted and is it holding up well?

[Ganglin]

Clint,

How would you compare the longevity of Sharkhide to Liquid Glass - if you have any experience with that product.

[BigAl]

Hi,
I have a 94 Excella that was painted by an Ontario dealer when still on his lot new. The unit had some kind of finish failure due to a chemical wash being sealed under the original clear coat. It started to etch the aluminum under the clear coat. Airstream decided that the only way to be able to sell the unit was to paint it. They stripped it down to the aluminum and then put a multilayer paint job on it(automotive clearcoat type finish).
Still looks new with only a maybe once a year coat of wax. I'm a bit lazy.
Al

[Bob Thompson]

Hi, I painted mine in the spring of 2004 and it is doing great. I have towed it about 35,000 miles since I painted it. I wish I could say I wax it all the time because that somehow seems virtuous. The reality is I've never completely waxed it even once. I have waxed some parts twice if that counts for anything. Other than than, it looks just like the day it was finished. It still has a very high gloss, which can be attributed to the quality of the clearcoat and the fact that I always wash it with either a mitt or a very soft brush that doesn't scratch the finish. I've also washed it many times with car wash power washers with no paint failure issues at all. The sealant and caulking is all doing great also. I thought I would have issues with the Parrbond, but after the initial "gator backing" it has done fine. The big surprise is the SeamerMate! It looks absolutely fantastic! It's as good as the day it was installed. I wish I'd used it in all locations where I used Parrbond.

Overall, it's a delightful success, and yes, I would do it again.

[t_birder]

Originally Posted by Ganglin

Clint,

How would you compare the longevity of Sharkhide to Liquid Glass - if you have any experience with that product.

Hi Garry,
I'm sorry to say I don't have any "hands on" with Liquid Glass. But let's start with the shortest length of protection I ever see with Sharkhide. This would be on Tractor Trailers, and in the absolute worst case, it's about a year. This is on their polished wheels and leading heads on their fuel tanks. Keep in mind, these guys put more miles on in a year than some of our stuff will see in two life times. But I can tell you that when we apply Sharkhide to lets say a boat for instance, we comonly see three to five years of protection or more between coats.
I hope this helps,
Clint

[t_birder]

Originally Posted by Alumatube

Thanks, Clint! That is very good to know! And I am sure you would have had people contacting you if they had issues.

I would love to see a few shots if you can post them easily.

Thanks for the info!

Susan

Hi Susan,
You're exactly right. My past experience and that of my customers is all I can base my opinions on.
I'll try to post a couple of pictures of a boat we did to give you an idea of the finish left with my cleaner.

[malconium]

While I happen to think that painting is a good idea and intend to have that done one of these years I would like to note that proper painting is not a quick and easy alternative to the other options that have been mentioned. From what I understand for paint to stick properly requires at least as much preparation as polishing or re-clear coating does. While I think it could very well be a better long term solution (especially since some body blemishes can be fixed with bondo before painting) I do not think it is an easier or cheaper solution.

On another note it seems to me that what would be usefull would be to have some sort of protective coating that could be pealed off and re-applied whenever it is needed. Is there such a product?

Malcolm

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Bob Thompson

My memory of chemistry in college generally duplicates what Paula Ford said above. Once a molecule of acid combines with say a molecule of metal, it changes and is no longer acid. The acid is quickly transformed into a product which is no longer a theat to the metal molecules. At least that's the way I remember it. What I'm unclear about is what it turns into. I think it turns into a salt and as such, it attracts moisture and it's the continuous presence of moisture which may be the culprit in causing oxidation, damaging the metal over time.

Almost 42 years experience examining customer trailers for many different reasons, including acid baths, says otherwise.

The acid hides under the rivet heads, and will eventually eat away at the clearcost or auotmotive paint.

I probably have seen at least 100 trailers with that kind of damage.

Recently, we had a customer who lives in the Cailfornia desert, bring his water leaking trailer into us.

He used his trailer everyday as an office. Because of the desert heat, he installed an overhead shower, for the complete trailer, to keep the shell cooler during the day.

In just a few short months, the plasticoat on the roof was gone. Now the water from the shower landed and stayed on the bare aluminum roof.

The chemicals in the water, that he also had as drinking water, reacted with the roof metal, just like any acid.

There were several hundred small holes in the roof, all caused by the water shower, that all leaked water

The roof sheet had to be replaced, much to the customers sadness.

He also learned, not to do that again.

So much for even small traces of acid, even from the water we drink.

Andy