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Old 01-13-2008, 05:32 PM   #15
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Clint, please DO post again!

Here is a thread that concerns corrosion issues that several members are having. If you have a solution to repairing and inhibiting corrosion, I'm sure there would be a LOT of interest in that.

You should sign up as a commercial vendor if you haven't yet.

Do you have a storefront in O'fallon? I'm in Highland.
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Old 01-13-2008, 06:31 PM   #16
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I am faced with the same problem. My 77/31 has blotchy clear coat. I am not going to polish it because I am lazy. I am to lazy to polish the first time and definitely don't want to maintain it later. My thoughts are to strip the clear coat and let it whether naturally. The other thought is to have it painted. I was told that the paint runs about 8000.00 to prep the surface, remove and replace all the lights gaskets and door and window seals. This process is expensive but it would seal the exterior and transform the appearance. Airstream actually painted them for one or two years from the factory. I have seen one and I think it was about 20 years old and it looked great. I saw a silver painted Argosy at the Can opener and it looked great! I think I would use the Emeron epoxy paint for its flexibility and longevity. I don't know if I am ready to embrace the 8000.00 but I would rather spend 8000.00 on the paint and new seals than to spend a similar amount for polishing that will require more polishing!

Any thoughts on leaving it striped?
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Old 01-13-2008, 06:44 PM   #17
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Forum member Bob Thompson did an excellent job of documenting his paint job in this thread.
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Old 01-14-2008, 09:12 AM   #18
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Hi I have the exact same problem, "snow on the roof" I am not preprared to strip the unit yet, so besides painting it, is there a fix
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Old 02-05-2008, 01:16 PM   #19
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I hate to say it, but no one else has yet. Anything worth doing is worth doing right! And that means it might not be easy.
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Old 02-05-2008, 01:55 PM   #20
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Hi Clint!

Did you realize both you and soldiermedic, who posted just below your initial response to this thread, are from O'Fallon, just in different states???

One of those odd coincidences...

And look at Steve showing off his new trailer!

Susan

Edit: I see you looking, Vaughan!
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Old 02-05-2008, 02:11 PM   #21
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Sharkhide

Hi guys,
tkendall is right. To get that great polished look isn't easy, but if you can muster up the energy just one more time, it's worth it.
Now one option I didn't see mentioned (or I just missed it) is acid washing. This will leave it a uniform off white. Not as pretty as a polish job, but better than a camper with stains stripes and corrosion.
But no matter what type of finish you choose, if you put Sharkhide on it when your done, you won't have to work on the finish again. There is a certain ammount of maintainence, but its no more than you would do to your tow vehicle. Just use a mild soap and water to keep it clean, and once evry couple years, just wipe another coat of Sharkhide on and that's pretty much it.
Hope this helps,
Clint
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Old 02-05-2008, 02:16 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alumatube
Hi Clint!

Did you realize both you and soldiermedic, who posted just below your initial response to this thread, are from O'Fallon, just in different states???

One of those odd coincidences...

And look at Steve showing off his new trailer!

Susan

Edit: I see you looking, Vaughan!
Hey Susan, No I didn't notice that. But O'Fallon Mo is not quite an hour from me.
Clint
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Old 02-05-2008, 02:21 PM   #23
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Question for you, Clint. From what I understand it is an absolute NO-NO to acid-wash an A/S exterior, due to the acid being captured around the rivets where it can't easily be washed off and over time eating away at the aluminum there. Do you have any long-term results on your acid-wash finishes?

Thanks,
Susan
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Old 02-05-2008, 02:28 PM   #24
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Mark from Branson acid washed all of the Airstreams that he polishes.

Guess he didn't know.

Steve
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Old 02-05-2008, 02:46 PM   #25
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That's only what I've seen on quite a few forums posts--I have not experienced this myself, so was curious.

Susan
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Old 02-05-2008, 02:47 PM   #26
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Sharkhide Cleaner

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alumatube
Question for you, Clint. From what I understand it is an absolute NO-NO to acid-wash an A/S exterior, due to the acid being captured around the rivets where it can't easily be washed off and over time eating away at the aluminum there. Do you have any long-term results on your acid-wash finishes?

Thanks,
Susan
Hi Susan,
Well to be honest with you, I've only done a few campers. But I don't see why the rivets on the A/S exterior is any different than the riveted skins on any of the other things (trailers, boats, and aircraft) that I've done over the years. First of all, I use only my cleaner and nothing else. It's not near as destructive as some of the other acids people try to use, but it does a great job. I just make sure I do a good rinse and that's it. Once that's done, I put a couple coats of My metal protectant on and that seals it completely. To date (almost twenty years) I've not been informed of any problems what so ever on the riveted items that I, or my customers have done.
I don't have any shots of the aluminum campers I've done (I am going to start collecting them though) over the years, but I have shots of things like boats. If you want, let me know and I'll try to post a shot.
Clint
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Old 02-05-2008, 03:05 PM   #27
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clear coating
I followed your link to your home page and that looks like an interesting product.

I have stipped a good chunk of our 86 Airstream Soveriegn and polishing it up. I don't want a mirror finish and I don't really want to polish every year so your product might have an application.

I have three questions. How much would be needed for our 25' trailer? Does your product leave the metal with any different effect (matte, satin, depth, etc.)? As I mentioned I would prefer to not have a mirror bright finish so some dulling is preferred. And lastly since I am polishing the skin to remove oxidation do I need to rough up the surface in any way before applying?

Thanks.
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Hi Chris,
You can put two real good coats on a trailer that size with about two to three quarts.
Once Sharkhide is applied, when you look at it streight on, it's invisible. But when you look down the side of your camper, it will have a shiny look. Kind of like its allways wet.
After you get the finish you want, other than cleaning off the polish residue, you don't need to do a thing to get Sharkhide to adhere to the camper. One of the demonstrations I give, is I wipe a coat on a piece of aluminum foil, let it dry (about 60 to 90 seconds), and crumple it up. Then smooth it back out. And I promise, you won't see a single crack, chip or flake.
Hope I covered your questions.
Clint
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Old 02-05-2008, 03:16 PM   #28
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Thanks, Clint! That is very good to know! And I am sure you would have had people contacting you if they had issues.

I would love to see a few shots if you can post them easily.

Thanks for the info!

Susan


Quote:
Originally Posted by t_birder
Hi Susan,
Well to be honest with you, I've only done a few campers. But I don't see why the rivets on the A/S exterior is any different than the riveted skins on any of the other things (trailers, boats, and aircraft) that I've done over the years. First of all, I use only my cleaner and nothing else. It's not near as destructive as some of the other acids people try to use, but it does a great job. I just make sure I do a good rinse and that's it. Once that's done, I put a couple coats of My metal protectant on and that seals it completely. To date (almost twenty years) I've not been informed of any problems what so ever on the riveted items that I, or my customers have done.
I don't have any shots of the aluminum campers I've done (I am going to start collecting them though) over the years, but I have shots of things like boats. If you want, let me know and I'll try to post a shot.
Clint
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