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Old 12-02-2008, 07:35 AM   #41
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Sharkhide

Quote:
Originally Posted by ronstory View Post
Clint--

Do you have any shots of what the boat looked like before adding SharkHide?
Hi Ron,
I'm sorry to say I don't have any "Before" shots. Since it was a new boat, I didn't think to do it.
I do have a Before and After shot of a sample tank I did for a customer to use in a trade show.
This tank was "hand polished" so it's not as shiny as it could be if I would have used a buffer on it.
Hope this helps.
Clint

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Old 12-02-2008, 08:36 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by Macfrodge View Post
This thread has interested me for a variety of reasons - one being that I like learning of different products that I can use to protect my A/S when the clearcoat begins to fail.

But what really catches my attention is fact quarts of organic solvents are being used to protect the aluminum. I wonder if I'm alone in wanting to steer clear of this stuff? I'm sure it works well, but is it worth being so close to carcinogenic substances on purpose?

I work in a lab and while people here years ago used to all but bathe in xylene/beneze, etc..., today these sorts of chemicals are used only when necessary and with appropriate protection.
Hi there,
I know what you mean. I've worked in the chemical transportation industry for tweny five years or so. I remember not too long ago when workers used to be lowered into tanks with nothing at all as far as protection to do repair work.
Although not an expert on how these things are determined, it would seem to me that (in most cases) prolonged exposure is the concern, and not so much the amount of exposure that a hobbyist would encounter. After all, we are exposed to things every day of our live's that technically are considered hazardous, but in the amounts we're exposed to, pose no real threat at all.
When I apply Sharkhide, I wear rubber gloves, and apply in a well ventilated area. Normally out doors. That being said, there is no skin contact what so ever, and total exposure to fumes, if any, realistically would be limited to the occasional whiff you might get from what ever could evaporate off the applicator cloth over the few minutes it takes to apply to the project.
I may be completely wrong on my take of this, but I don't think there's any real danger with Sharkhide as long as we use gloves, ventilation, and a little sense.
But as allways ,I and I'm sure the rest of the forum members, appreciate the reminder to use caution around the things we use in our daily routine.
Clint
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Old 12-02-2008, 11:27 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t_birder View Post
Hi there,
I know what you mean. I've worked in the chemical transportation industry for tweny five years or so. I remember not too long ago when workers used to be lowered into tanks with nothing at all as far as protection to do repair work.
Although not an expert on how these things are determined, it would seem to me that (in most cases) prolonged exposure is the concern, and not so much the amount of exposure that a hobbyist would encounter. After all, we are exposed to things every day of our live's that technically are considered hazardous, but in the amounts we're exposed to, pose no real threat at all.
When I apply Sharkhide, I wear rubber gloves, and apply in a well ventilated area. Normally out doors. That being said, there is no skin contact what so ever, and total exposure to fumes, if any, realistically would be limited to the occasional whiff you might get from what ever could evaporate off the applicator cloth over the few minutes it takes to apply to the project.
I may be completely wrong on my take of this, but I don't think there's any real danger with Sharkhide as long as we use gloves, ventilation, and a little sense.
But as allways ,I and I'm sure the rest of the forum members, appreciate the reminder to use caution around the things we use in our daily routine.
Clint
Hi Clint,

I have to say I'm still a very cautious, hands-off attitude towards this product.

To work with organic solvents for any length of time without the proper safety equipment is foolish and irresponsible. This includes gloves of course, but also other proper gear to prevent any skin contact. You'd also need some sort of self-contained breathing apparatus regardless of where it's being used. Also precautions against fire and explosions are called for.

In short, I think that most people downplay the significant effects that organic solvents can cause.

Of course, as with many things in life, there are varying degrees of exposure and what it can possibly do to a human being. But why take any chances when you don't have to?

You mention that in our everyday lives, we are exposed to hazardous substances. Yes, we are. But does that mean we ought to purposely expose ourselves to something we KNOW is harmful without the proper protection?

On Sharkhide's website I see a video demonstrating a typical application. I see that the only safety measures the gentleman is observing is that he is outdoors and he's wearing gloves. I feel that the manufacturer ought to be advocating the correct usage.

I have no idea what the safety laws (if any) are in the U.S. (I'm in Canada). But it seems to me that the manufacturer as well as representatives of the company should be following basic MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets) guidelines - leading by example.

The MSDS for the product can be found on the manufacturer's website: http://www.sharkhidemarinesales.com/download/msd.pdf

It's chock full of the usual hazardous wordings you'd expect from a product that's nearly all organic solvent. In addition, it recommends using a NIOSH/HSHA approved chemical/mechanical respirator (among others).

So why doesn't the company show this respirator and gloves and so forth on the website?

This isn't something that I feel comfortable downplaying.
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Old 01-16-2009, 12:12 PM   #44
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MacFrodge,

Thank you for opening my (and hopefully others) eyes to a serious health hazard being caused by every day chemicals, many of which are being promoted on this and other renovation websites.

When I first saw 2Air's and then your post, I started trying to read a little more about the chemicals, looking in my garage for similar chemicals and I will definately be more careful while using them in the future.

I am stunned on one point thought. This thread has gathered so much attention regarding Xylene and Toulene when these are the same chemicals used in common every day Spray paint! There are threads all over this forum regarding the use of spray paint such as Krylon Fusion for the end caps and Rustoleum for our frames and I haven't seen one word of caution. We are talking about a product that Home Depot keeps 1,000s of cans on display and no warning that I have ever seen. Even POR-15 has organic solvents so it sounds dangerous too.

Am I missing something or should people be disclosing this type of warning everywhere else on this forum?
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Old 01-16-2009, 12:52 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ckeysor View Post
MacFrodge,
There are threads all over this forum regarding the use of spray paint such as Krylon Fusion for the end caps and Rustoleum for our frames and I haven't seen one word of caution.


Kind of curious about this myself... intend to do quite a bit of work with Fusion - inside the A/S (though with natural - window - ventilation).

Laura
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Old 01-17-2009, 10:36 AM   #46
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Not recommended. Natural ventilation air is all fine and good but is not a substitute for a fresh air hood or organic filters. I only shoot paint outside and upwind and have done a fair amount of it for automobile restorations... and have no ill effects. Also, use a large box with 1 or 2 sides cut out of it for a simple paint booth to help contain the overspray.

Don't forget to buy 2-3 boxes of nitrile gloves for working with just about any chemical or solvent. They are cheap when you think about the consequences and when you have a couple of boxes... you are less likely to skimp on replacing them as needed.

Oh... when you go up the ladder to work on the AS... carry extra gloves with you. There is a temptation to not replace them as quickly as needed due to contamination or tears when you need to haul the equipment back down the ladder to "just" get a new glove.

My two cents.
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Old 08-25-2009, 08:09 PM   #47
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Well, I guess it's time to update the Sharkhide experiment here. I used Sharkhide on my entire trailer last year, after giving it a light polish. I was happy with the results, as it seemed to stop the oxidization from progressing, kept the water spots from staining the aluminum, and bird droppings wiped right off. There are some tricks to putting this stuff on. First off, the aluminum has to be perfectly clean, or you will get black streaking from any rivet areas, caulk that you run over, etc. You have to use a diaper to sop the liquid in & quickly apply it in straight strokes. It is very difficult to apply this product and not get streaking. I had plenty of streaks, but decided it was worth it to not HAVE to polish. Being pretty pleased with the results on a mill finished trailer, I decided to go for the mirror finish this summer. I figured I'd use the Sharkhide & not have to polish it again. Well, I worked long and hard on this polish job. I used Sharkhide on 3/4 of my trailer. I really wanted this stuff to work. I polished the streetside of my trailer & didn't use the Sharkhide as I went along, but just used some car wax to keep the water spots off until I completed the entire side. That's when I realized I was just not really happy with the Sharkhide for a mirror finish. It accentuates every spot that isn't of equal depth as the next. This seemed to be a problem for me in the center panel of the curbside. I'm not sure how to post pictures & comment in between, but the first picture is of that center panel and the second is of the same panel after the Sharkhide was removed and Liquid Glass applied. I also feel that the Sharkhide doesn't have a smooth enough finish and it holds dirt. It's okay right after washing, but doesn't stay clean for long (unless it rains). The rest of the pictures pretty much speak for themselves.
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Old 08-26-2009, 06:06 AM   #48
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Sharkhide

Hi Becky,
I'm so sorry to hear you had a problem. By looking at the pic of the first panel I can absolutely assure you that's NOT the expected finish we get from Sharkhide. As you can see in the pics I posted earlier of the polished pontoon boat it goes on all but invisable.
If you don't mind, I'd really like to talk to you about the details of your application. After almost twenty years of doing this, we've found that when there's a problem, we've always been able to correct it by changes in application procedures.
Please feel free to give me a ring any time, I'd love to chat with you about your application.
Thanks,
Clint
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Old 08-26-2009, 07:39 PM   #49
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After applying the Sharkhide twice to the 31' Airstream, I think I have the recommended application process down pat. The air temperature is the variable that really makes a difference. I tried to apply it when it was at least in the 60's (not above) because it laid out smoother in cooler weather. Most of the time it was in the 50's. The only way it could go on better would be to spray it on. I don't have the facilities (as I'm sure most of us don't) for that process. As noted by the pictures of the door & the section to the right, the finish was smooth, but the panel appears foggy. There is no way that a piece of raw aluminum can be cleaned to come absolutely free of oxidization upon every pass of a white piece of paper towel soaked with Lacquer thinner. It comes up with black on it every single time, no matter how many times you do it. The finish looks clearer when it is wet. That could be why a pontoon looks fine with it applied. Have you mirror finished the pontoon? I didn't have as many issues with Sharkhide when I used it on the mill finish (just some streaking), but for a mirror finish, it was just too difficult to get it to look perfect (and isn't that why most of us actually do a mirror finish?) If you look at the picture of the streetside, you will see the front end is foggy. I just won't make excuses for the final finish that I have like I was (it was shinier, but I put a protector on it & it took down the shine). I'd rather buff it out once a year for a day & have the shine that I worked for.
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Old 11-29-2011, 09:36 AM   #50
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Becky,

Do you have an update after several years on any Sharkhide only sections? How did it hold up. I have a 34' with failing Plasticoat and want to keep the mill finish. From what I read of your earlier posts (pre-polishing) the Sharkhide was working for you.
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Old 11-29-2011, 12:40 PM   #51
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I left the Sharkhide on the roof of my trailer, since I wasn't concerned about the mirror finish up there. It's still hanging in there & hasn't peeled. The one downfall is that it seems to collect dirt more quickly than the sections with regular polish on them. But, it looks pretty good. Colin Hyde was talking about spraying it on & had some pretty good results with it (I heard him on the Vintage Trailer podcast). It's a little tricky to put on, but with some practice (and cool weather helps) it's ok.....not as clear as clearcoat, but doable.
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Old 11-29-2011, 07:18 PM   #52
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Thank you for the update. I might give it a try as opposed to having it stripped and re-plasticoated.
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Old 11-29-2011, 08:20 PM   #53
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Thank you for the update. I might give it a try as opposed to having it stripped and re-plasticoated.
Just to be clear, you DO have to strip the old clear coat off before you use the Sharkhide.
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Old 11-30-2011, 05:24 AM   #54
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Understood, thanks.
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Old 11-30-2011, 05:42 AM   #55
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Ok I will bite, what is Sharkhide? I am assuming some sort of clear coating?

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Old 11-30-2011, 10:41 AM   #56
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Sharkhide is a clear protectant for all metals including aluminum. There were several posts regarding it in 2009. The owner of the company was really advocating his product but was softly attacked from several angles by forum members. I called him yesterday actually because my husband and I are very interested in applying it to our airstream after we polish it. Unfortunately, you wont find him here anymore because he said he was done with this bunch. Nice guy though- phone rings straight to his cell and he is more than willing to help. The only legit negative was from Beckybillrae that it took the shine down 30%. In product defense, she said she still had residue on the trailer when she applied and the application guidelines are clear that it has to be completely clean to go on %100 clear. I could care less if it knocks some of the shine down. To be honest, I really couldn't see a difference in Becky's pictures. I am more concerned about protecting the stream from oxidation and preventing slavery to the polisher. From what I have read, this seems superior to the lame clearcoat Airstream applies.

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Old 08-24-2014, 11:50 AM   #57
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Hey all, just looking for an update, and to see if anyone has tried the Sharkhide polish.

Thanks,

Keith


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