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Old 06-10-2008, 02:22 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by ckeysor View Post
Clint, thanks for the application advice, guess I consider directions to be more like guidelines. Anyway, I will apply it directly onto the rag.

Also, do you have any advice on storing the product. I have been putting it in our spare refrigerator hoping to preserve it longer.
Hey Chris,
Remember to use a "white cotton baby diaper" to apply, and pour right frum the container to the surface of the cloth and that should give the best finish possible.
And as far as storage goes, I wouldn't keep it in the fridge. Just store it on a shelf in the garage and as long as you keep it sealed, you can go back and use it ten years from now. Sharkhide will never settle out or harden.
Clint
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Old 07-08-2008, 10:27 PM   #16
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I am a new airstream owner. Have had the trailer for the past 3 years--acquired as part of a package deal and started to use it last year. Had a good time and the "community" is wonderful. Now for the problem. The finish has come off of the top and partway down the side of the trailer. I don't want the almun to be damaged but also don't know what to do to restore the finish.

This trailer was recoated at a/s factory just before I bought it and it was not a cheap repair. If the finish only lasted 2 years that seems to be a big expense that occurs way too frequently. I called the a/s factory and they told me the warranty was only good for 1 year.

What should I do to fix the problem? What are the procedures I should follow? Is this something I can perform on my own or does it have to be done by a professional?

The trailer is a 1991 34 foot limited.

Thanks
Tim Wegner
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Old 07-09-2008, 07:26 AM   #17
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Exclamation Yecch, airplane glue flavored milk

Quote:
Originally Posted by ckeysor View Post
Also, do you have any advice on storing the product. I have been putting it in our spare refrigerator hoping to preserve it longer. My wife loves to be able to get milk, veggies along with por 15 and sharkhide. Or Ice Cream and Vulcum.
The possibility of cross contamination of organic solvents to food would be too great for me to store those items in proximity. (Although I might keep them in the beer 'fridge)

Those solvents are very hard on a human body and all the protective equipment advised above is recommended during handling and use. The stuff will migrate through your skin into the bloodstream so use nitrile gloves and a organic vapor respirator to protect your lungs (and ultimatly your liver and nerve cells)
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Old 07-09-2008, 08:35 AM   #18
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----- to deal with the 'brain melt' that comes from sniffing xylene and toluene...

they can sell this stuff to consumers, but it is VERY unlikely it would ever be used INSIDE the industry...

these solvents are just not allowed in most areas like rv construction anymore...

cheers
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Old 11-06-2008, 04:07 PM   #19
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Any More Shark Hide Experiences or Updates?

I'm interested in the Sharkhide for most of the reasons that have already been stated and am wondering if anyone has more to add to this thread.

It has been a few months.

How about ckeysor or beckybillrae? Since you have used the product. Is it still holding out? Does it work well?

It sure sounds like something I could use if it doesn't just fail after a certain time.

Thanks
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Old 11-06-2008, 04:27 PM   #20
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long-term test

After about 6 months on the front of my Sovereign the front still looks great. I think Tbird suggested it lasts 2 years at which point I will re-do the application.

If you remember, I am using the Shark Hyde on the front bottom segments and any parts that have had a tendancy to corrode. I am using a polymer on the top cones and it is finally starting to wear down after 6 months (not bad).

There was also some discussion on a clouding of the aluminum under the Shark Hyde. I actually think that came from the use of Blue Magic as my final polisher not Shark Hyde.

PS. many of the same chemicals mentioned above are also in spray paint. I think the warnings are fair, but should be applied to many of the common chemicals we use. So be careful with everything.
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Old 11-06-2008, 04:31 PM   #21
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As mentioned in my main thread. One of the factors that drove me to use Shark Hide is that it will take me a while to get through polishing everything (due to lots of corrosion and other distractions). If my trailer was in pretty good shape I would take it up to P&S for a new plasti-coat. I will likely be doing that in 1-2 years and then will plan on getting touch-ups every couple of years (they will do partial coats).
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Old 11-06-2008, 06:56 PM   #22
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I have coated everything but the roof of my trailer with Sharkhide. It has held off the oxidization so far. My comments about the product that are negative are:

l. The aluminum needs to be perfectly clean. This is done strictly with Lacquer thinner & Viva paper towels (other brands actually put scratches back on the aluminum). I used Mineral Spirits at first to clean up, but found out from the Sharkhide guy that was why I wasn't getting a clear finish.

2. You have to be really fast putting it on, or it gets sticky & leaves marks that you can see in the finish. Goes on better in cool weather rather than warm.

3. If you have too much on your rag, you can get drips around the rivets and lines in the finish where it went on thicker.

The good stuff:

1. Bird droppings wipe right off.

2. Rain spots wipe right off.

3. If you get a scratch in the finish, you just wipe it over the scratch.

4. You only have to do it every 2 years or so--after the 1st coat, the rest are easy. Just wipe it over after cleaning with a rag & water.

5. If you don't like the way the finish turned out, you can easily remove it by spraying it down with Lacquer thinner.

6. I hope I never have to wax again.

7. I'm still alive.(with possible brain damage)

I'll post some pictures of the finish when I can. Not a perfect product for application, but hopefully it will last. So far, so good.
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Old 11-06-2008, 11:26 PM   #23
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Is this product only recommended for the vintage trailers that can be polished or does it work with the new aluminum they are using now?
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Old 11-07-2008, 09:33 AM   #24
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I'm really hoping that SharkHide is the answer to what I want to do. I don't want to start a polishing regime that I can't keep up with. I don't want to invest the time it takes to do that; and considering all things, my wife and I prefer a more 'satin' finish. Our original finish is good, but rapidly loosing the clearcoat. I want to strip it and put something on that I won't have to deal with too often. SharkHide seems to be the only answer that will also protect the aluminum.

So, please continue to keep us posted about how it all works out.
I sure appreciate the hands-on, first hand experience that you folks are documenting.
Thank You, ckeysor and beckybillrae for taking the time to put it out there.
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Old 11-07-2008, 10:30 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beckybillrae View Post
I have coated everything but the roof of my trailer with Sharkhide. It has held off the oxidization so far. My comments about the product that are negative are:

l. The aluminum needs to be perfectly clean. This is done strictly with Lacquer thinner & Viva paper towels (other brands actually put scratches back on the aluminum). I used Mineral Spirits at first to clean up, but found out from the Sharkhide guy that was why I wasn't getting a clear finish.

2. You have to be really fast putting it on, or it gets sticky & leaves marks that you can see in the finish. Goes on better in cool weather rather than warm.

3. If you have too much on your rag, you can get drips around the rivets and lines in the finish where it went on thicker.

The good stuff:

4. You only have to do it every 2 years or so--
Hey there Becky,
First of all, my self and the others on this forum truly appriciate you taking the time to post your "hands on" opinion of Sharkhide Metal Protectant.
I just wanted to try to expand on some of the bad as well as good coments you've made on applying Sharkhide.

1) As far as the aluminum needing to be clean, I can't stress that enough. If you wipe Sharkhide over a film of some sort, it CAN'T hang on to the surface any better than the film it's applied over.

2) As far as it getting "sticky" and "leaving marks". I've not spoken to you on the methods you used, so I'm not saying these were the reasons for your findings, but after speaking with other folks with similar problems over the years they did one or more of the following that led to their problems.
a) They would pour Sharkhide into a pan of some sort and dip the cloth instead of pouring streight from the can on to the cloth. This lets the solvents evaporate so quickly, the Sharkhide will change in formulation and begin to thicken after just a few minutes of exposure.
b) They didn't put enough product on the cloth. Therefore the Sharkhide would go on too thin not giving it enough film thickness. Since it was too thin, it would dry almost instantly not giving it enough time to flow out and smooth before it dried.
c) Instead of applying in single swipe's and overlaping by just about an inch or so on the return swipes, they would go back and fourth over the area, or try to do touch ups too quickly after the first swipe. This leaves lines and streaks in the finish
d) Some streaks in the finish are made by not useing the correct cloth (white cotton baby diaper), or balling it up instead of neatly folding in a nice smooth thick pad.

3) As far as drips and lines go, most drips can normally be caught and wiped away on the return swipe, and most lines can be eliminated with a change in application methods.

4) Last but not least is how often you need to apply. Two years is the time span I give folks to be safe. But it not a must. Depending on a thousand different variables, you may see as little as two or three years of protection, or as much as ten years. The most important thing is to "watch your finish" for any signs of the Sharkhide wearing through. If you see a spot that is starting to darken due to exposure to the elements, that's your sign to get a new coat on in the next month or so.

If any one else has any questions, please post them and I'll do my (long winded) best to answer. And as always, feel free to give me a ring any time day or night (618-624-4091) and I'll be more than happy to go over your project with you.
Again, Becky I can't thank you enough for posting.
Clint
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Old 11-07-2008, 10:34 AM   #26
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Is this product only recommended for the vintage trailers that can be polished or does it work with the new aluminum they are using now?
Hey there,
Sharkhide will work (adhere) on any alloy or hardness aluminum made. Sheet, cast or billet realy doesn't matter. The ONLY thing you need to be sure of is that the surface is BARE aluminum, and that it not have any waxes, polishes, oils or films on it.
Hope this helps,
Clint
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Old 11-07-2008, 10:41 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timkim View Post
I'm really hoping that SharkHide is the answer to what I want to do. I don't want to start a polishing regime that I can't keep up with. I don't want to invest the time it takes to do that; and considering all things, my wife and I prefer a more 'satin' finish. Our original finish is good, but rapidly loosing the clearcoat. I want to strip it and put something on that I won't have to deal with too often. SharkHide seems to be the only answer that will also protect the aluminum.

So, please continue to keep us posted about how it all works out.
I sure appreciate the hands-on, first hand experience that you folks are documenting.
Thank You, ckeysor and beckybillrae for taking the time to put it out there.
Hi there,
You don't have to have a polished finish at all for Sharkhide to work. You'll find that it's a lot less touchy to apply to an acid wased or a mill (satin) finish because your little "blemish marks" are much harder to see than on a reflective surface.
As long as your trailer hasn't darkened and oxidized in the spots your current "clearcoat" is failing, and If the finish looks god to you and your wife, all you need to do is remove the bad coat that's on there now and wipe a couple coats of Sharkhide onto the clean aluminum and it will stay the way it looks now.
Clint
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Old 11-07-2008, 05:29 PM   #28
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Here are some before polishing, before sharkhide, & after sharkhide pictures I promised. By the way, I did take the polish directly from the bottle, and I did use a brand new cloth cotton baby diaper as recommended.
The 1st picture is after stripping
2nd to right is after light polishing on top section.
Final four are after light polish & sharhide applied.(accept front section on curbside of 4th picture)
Hope it lasts! My arms are tired!
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