I have seen this area painted, which if done correctly looks good. Also you can re-stripe it fairly easily, depending on whether you can get the old stripe off. that seems to be the hardest part of the job.
I found striping on EBAY from automotive/boat suppliers, and got 150 foot roll for less than twenty dollars. High quality striping which in my case turned out to be the exact color I was looking for. You can email L Peterson (the stripeguy) bpeter7460@aol.com and see if he has what you want available. I was patient in looking as i wanted a certain style and color.
Other stuff is available, do a web search and you might find some great stripes.
By the way, I cleaned mine with mineral spirits, washed it down, dried, and striped over the old stuff. Been on for two plus years and looking good.
__________________
Rallys twice a year..Lots of fun, food, and aluminum.
I figured it would be just about the same amount of work
either way. I'll be on lookout for just the right stripe though.
While we are on the subject... My Excella from what I gather
has what is known as a "satin finish" and a clearcoat. What
are some of the options here for improving the finish?
I searched a lot of the threads here on polishing, but I mainly
see 60's and 70's and early 80's models being under the buffer.
What about the later 80's models?
I'm a little apprehensive about getting the five gallons of aircraft
stripper and a paint roller....
And I am sure this subject is a dead horse that has seen quite a
beating... so sorry for the repeat question here.
If your clearcoat is not peeling, you can use a good quality automotive sealant and polish to shine it up and it will look pretty darn good.
I would wash it well with a mild car wash, I like the Armor All brand, but any good stuff will work, dry it well and start polishing with a clearcoat safe, non abrasive polish. If you do a few coats you may be surprised at how nice it will look, all depending on the condition of the clear coat. Mine was filmy and not very shiny when I bought it, and many other Rvers have asked how I got it to shine so well.
I have used "Liquid Glass" polymer on mine for over a year now. I used waxes before, and it looked good but the shine did not last.
The LG has held a shine all the time it has been on. With a touch up wash it looks as good as it did the day I put it on.I also have used it on a stripped area, with no clearcoat, where I removed grey paint. It too has held a shine for a few months now, and water beads up quite well on it.
The stuff cost 18 bucks a bottle at Pep Boys but did three coats on my 28 footer, and a coat on my sports car. I had enough left to touch up the roof area where I have had some small clearcoat issues. They have not gotten any worse over this past year with this sealant on it.
Others here have used this stuff on boats and their AS with good results also.
__________________
Rallys twice a year..Lots of fun, food, and aluminum.
I searched a lot of the threads here on polishing, but I mainly
see 60's and 70's and early 80's models being under the buffer.
What about the later 80's models?
Excellaphant
Old or new, all can be polished.
Check this EXTERIOR FINISH thread
__________________ Rog
May you camp where wind won’t hit you, where snakes won’t bite and bears won’t git you.
I'd do what ever I could to NOT polish it. I'm way deep into polishing mine and I hate it. I hate every min. of it. I read the post, bought the right stuff, I'm young, healthy.... and I HATE POLISHING.
Can you see where this is going. People that see it love it, I like the finished look but not at what it takes to get there. I don't care what ANYONE say's.... it suck!!
Quick Links
Linear Mode
