Aluminum requires a special primer so in order to recondition the "AIRSTREAM" signs on my '65 Caravel I will need to very carefully prime and then paint the blue background on two panels. Sounds very time consuming so I am looking for suggestions here. Probably one coat of Rustoleum would out last me. Thanks
I used Rustoleum Royal Blue on the AIRSTREAM over the front window and on the plaque by the entrance door. It never faded or peeled over the 4 years I had the '77.
__________________ Craig
AIR #0078
'01 2500hd ext. cab, 8.1 litre gas, 5 sp. Allison auto
3.73 rear end
Mag-Hytec rear diff cover
Amsoil Dual by-pass oil filtration system
Amsoil synthetics all around
265 watt AM Solar, Inc. system
I also just masked and sprayed with good hardware store spray paint. Has lasted for years. I think I did which saved time was use a liquid frisket to cover details. After spraying it comes right off. You can use rubber cement or a special frisket liquid from an art supply store.
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I have my own opinion. Don't confuse me with the facts.
Here's a before and after from this past weekend. Cleaned the letters with mineral spirits first and taped it with 3" painters tape. Rubbed the letter edges to seal it well then cut out the design with a razor knife. Hit it with 5 coats of Rustoleum Royal Blue.
Photos of some others also attached - they were painted using a different method obviously. Good luck....
I used Rustoleum Royal Blue on the AIRSTREAM over the front window and on the plaque by the entrance door. It never faded or peeled over the 4 years I had the '77.
Maybe someone else will chime in here but, I don't think that one was painted in the first place. If you want to paint it I'm sure we can figure out some way to do it.
My 'identification plate' looks just like Ganglin's, and I'm wondering if anyone else notices it oxidizes really quickly. I polished it, painted it, and put some rain-x on it just to see if a sealer would help. It has slowed the spots, but seems like I should try a wax. Anyone else notice this? (Same thing with the hinge)
Suggestions?
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Tanya
"If you want something done right, do it yourself!"
As promised, here is how I repainted my logos. Hopefully ya’ll can use this as a starting point and achieve even better results.
My logos were in pretty bad shape.
So I started by drilling out the original rivits
Only to discover the rivits weren’t factory original!
Why didn’t these honkin’ big holes leak? Wait a minute, what about all the other emblems?
Yup, all of my logos were repainted at some time in their history. And someone even got the colors reversed on one of them
I will be needing some Valkum
I guess the original removal method was a little rough based on the bends.
Here is what I started with
And it’s off to the Harbor Freight Bead Blaster.
Anded here is what I ended up with. I didn’t try to remove all of the old paint, simple get rid of the loose stuff.
Using Rustoleium and two different size brushes, I dabbed the paint into the proper areas trying for a very thick layer (of course using the box for color match purposes)
And then, the trick- I used to work for a guy that in a former life made enamuled logos. He said the trick is to dry the paint from the rear to the front by using a heated plate. So I grabbed the hot plate and – If you want to try this use some common sense, put the hot plate outside and away from anything you wouldn’t want toasted if things go wrong-
Set the temp to 150 deg F and lay the logo in the hot plate. The thick layer of paint drew up to the logo so much I wish I had put on a thicker layer!
Then the final product
__________________ Hi Ho Silver RV!
Vernon, Sarah, Mac the Border Collie and- 'Epiphany' the 29' Airstream
Nice work Hi Ho. I went the lazy route and did not remove mine - used spray paint to do the one shown in Post 4. above.
Taped off the emblem 6 inches out including the raised edge of the emblem. Then taped off the white area - leaving the red and blue both exposed. Taped a piece of newpaper lengthwise between the red and blue. Paint the red then taped the newspaper up to the trailer so it billowed out but covering the red. Then did the blue. Back and forth doing this until it had 5 coats.
Let the red and blue set 24 hours. Taped them off and exposed the white area and wording. Sprayed the entire white area including what got on the faces of the letters. Then quickly wiped the paint off the letter faces with a smooth rag soaked in mineral spirits. Five coats on that part also.
So the procedure for painting the little guy on the bicycle and the trailer behind him would be to spray the area and quickly wipe off the high parts that you want no paint on. I guess later you could carefully use some fine sandpaper on the high areas. Then on to the easy parts.
Been thinking about the guy on the bike. Is it raised enough that you could wipe the high areas? Thought a paper towel (thinner) might work better for that than even a smooth cloth - even wrapped over a popsicle stick tip. Make sure the wipe is just damp not real wet with mineral spirits.
I'd tape off the serial number plate and the Airstream letters - cutting out around the Airstream letters if it were me...
A note on the wording like the recessed Overlander - on that one I just taped the block off around the word and sprayed the whole thing. Then wiped the face with paint thinner leaving the paint only in the recesses. That was the easiest one to do.