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Old 08-26-2008, 02:41 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
Seriously, you cannot leave alclad aluminun bare. The elements in the air that we breathe, will attack it, usually in short order.

Andy
So if your clearplastireplastickoate is failing, and you do nothing...what will happen?
Once the skin has oxidized (protective layer of sorts) shouldn't that be the end of any "damage" to the skin?

(The above ASSumes you do maintain gaskets/seals/etc).

Bill
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Old 08-26-2008, 02:53 PM   #30
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Once the skin has oxidized (protective layer of sorts) shouldn't that be the end of any "damage" to the skin?

Bill
NO. It will continue, until stopped.

Andy
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Old 08-26-2008, 03:03 PM   #31
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...Once the skin has oxidized (protective layer of sorts) shouldn't that be the end of any "damage" to the skin?...
i don't think alum surface oxidation has exactly the same protective qualities as it does on iron.

but there are 1000s of units on the road that fit this description and they are doing fine AND look ok to me...

i've seen some with such a uniform light frost/patina, that it would be a sin to shine'em, because they ALREADY look great.

it's somewhat like removing the original finish and 400 years of crud from antique furniture,

old looking BETTER than new is weird (because they weren't shiny then either)

but just because it's oxidizing, doesn't mean the owner isn't continuing to assult the surface, with goofy washings, sprays or slopped on soups...

or that a old unit isn't getting a BEATING from road salts or the atmosphere beyond just surface film...

IF you like how it looks LEAVE it as is.

but i doubt u will get many vendors who vend surface treatments to give blessings to doing nothing...

and when panels get replaced and surface looks piecemeal, a buff and coating with paint or clear or polish is reasonable.

cheers
2air'
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Old 08-26-2008, 03:52 PM   #32
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We liked ours..

Sandy & I just loved the way ours looked...

Cleaned/waxed but never shined...but then again we've been dull all our lives.
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Old 08-26-2008, 04:07 PM   #33
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Okay, (if you do not have any immediate plans to polish it) is it better to leave the remaining clearcoat on along with the filiform corrosion or should you strip it and let the aluminum oxidize without a coating?

I keep thinking of the filiform as being some sort of cancer under the clearcoat. Is the filiform more or less invasive to the skin than simple oxidation or is it the same thing?
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Old 08-27-2008, 07:12 AM   #34
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Well, I will keep washing/waxing for now...as soon as I find $5k lying around we will do something. I am tempted to paint it (as noted above)...

Thanx, Bill
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Old 10-27-2008, 03:45 PM   #35
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Some of the members here need to talk to some vintage owners who have polished out their units. It takes hours and hours and hours to get a good luster. I have the top half of my 98 unit beginning to shed the coating and it is the 2nd coat that it has had. The original coat didn't last 3 years. For small spots like the small spot over the Airstream name I was told to use a clear acrylic spray by an A/S dealer (name not needed). I am taking the route of trying to buff the bare aluminum with 303 which can be bought at Camping World. (Sorry Andy). I do know if you try to use Turtle Wax on the aluminum that has lost it's clear coat it will turn black and then it is hell getting any luster back. Enjoy the work.
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Old 10-27-2008, 07:33 PM   #36
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I stripped, compounded and polished my 1990 using nuvite. I only use Nuvite compound. I use Turtle Wax "ICE" a polymer for polish. I first remove swirl marks with Nuvite F7 and cyclo polisher. I spray on the ICE and wipe with a micro towel. No effort, doesn't water spot. I read corn starch on a rag removes black marks from polish. I tried it with black from Nuvite and black dissapears. Just sprinkle some corn starch on a seperate micro fiber towel and wipe away the black.Don't know if it would work with other polish generate black. CharlieE
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