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Old 06-19-2012, 12:40 PM   #1
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POR15 quantities needed? Spartan

I'm working on a 25 foot Spartan Manor...
i'm restoring the springs and axle first, before i take the trailer to the sand blaster for the rest. I wanted to get the springs freshened up so they'll be able to slip. i've got everything ground down pretty good...some probably a little too clean. i'm going to bite the bullet and go with the por-15.

for the axle and springs can anyone guess how much i might need?
marine clean--metal ready--por15---chassis black gloss. do i need the chassis black gloss for the axle and springs or is the por15 alone enough? and since i want my visible chassis black...should i get a different contrasting color of por15 like silver to make the final coat of black chassis paint easier?

as i understand it i won't need to coat the unexposed undercarriage with black chassis topcoat as the por15 will suffice. let me know if i'm wrong.

and finally, since i'm taking the chassis to be blasted after i finish the axle and springs, will i need marine clean and metal ready for the blasted surfaces or are they ready for the por15?

i'm just trying to figure out what quantities i need to order. if i'm only using chassis black on the exposed tongue then maybe a pint? if i don't need extra prep on the blasted areas i may only need a small metal ready for the axle since i'm not blasting it...etc.

thanks for any help.
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Old 06-19-2012, 01:09 PM   #2
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I used two quarts to do my 28' frame. I sprayed it on and didn't use the metal ready or marine clean. I did however take the grinder with a wire brush to the whole thing. I Then took my pressure washer to it to clean everything off. I didn't have a problem spraying or any bubbling when the Por15 dried..

You don't need to coat the Por15 if it is not in the sun. They say if may discolor in the sun.

I did encounter one problem. Getting it off my skin. I still have it on my on my legs and hands a week later. Here is a thread I started on Por15 http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...5-a-91871.html
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Old 06-19-2012, 01:17 PM   #3
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POR15 is pretty forgiving as far as surface prep. It does not like grease but if the surface is rough enough it will still bond. I have even put it over areas that were not 100% clean like where mud dobbers made nests and I did not get it all off. The POR15 will bond with anything loose on the surface making it part of the paint sorta like a composite. If you are going to put the stuff where it will get any sun it will loose the gloss. You need a top coat to keep the gloss in sunlit areas.

You don't want to put this stuff on your springs because it will glue them together. You could do it but you would need to take the springs apart and put grease between them and then wipe the excess off.


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Old 06-19-2012, 03:10 PM   #4
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my springs are apart at the moment awaiting a finish. i was planning on adding slip plate lube between them when i reassemble.

i'm assuming you mean just painting over the assembled leafs.
will por15 be good for each individual leaf? or is there something better for springs?
should i topcoat the axle and springs for extra protection. not really in the sun, but not covered by the belly pan.
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Old 06-19-2012, 03:30 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spit View Post
my springs are apart at the moment awaiting a finish. i was planning on adding slip plate lube between them when i reassemble.

i'm assuming you mean just painting over the assembled leafs.
will por15 be good for each individual leaf? or is there something better for springs?
should i topcoat the axle and springs for extra protection. not really in the sun, but not covered by the belly pan.
It will work like that, and shouldn't wear off with the grease. The new axels come with paint but if they are old it wouldn't hurt them.
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Old 06-19-2012, 07:45 PM   #6
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did you do 2 coats? would you recommend different colors for each coat?
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Old 06-19-2012, 09:18 PM   #7
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Maybe this will help. We sandblasted, then used the marine clean and the prep spray, then sprayed on POR-15.
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Old 06-19-2012, 10:45 PM   #8
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I did 2 coats, and yes It might help to use 2 colors but when spraying I just went slow so I know it was covering. In the end I touched a few places up with a brush. But very few.
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Old 06-21-2012, 01:02 PM   #9
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Hi Andrew,

I really don't know how much metal you have to cover on your project so it is hard to give you quantities. 2 quarts of POR-15 is probably enough for the whole project but those leaf springs are the wildcard.

Anywhere you have oils, you need to use Marine Clean. If you are media blasting, you probably don't need the Marine Clean as long as it is clean when you get it home. Just get everything really clean and you'll be fine. My recommendation is to buy a gallon of Marine Clean.

When you have new or bare metal you need to use Prep & Ready (formerly called Metal Ready). In your case I would recommend it everywhere. Getting the proper bond is essential and it is fast and easy and not too expensive to do the P&R step. If you are sandblasting everything, get a gallon of P&R.

There are two reasons to topcoat POR-15: 1) it is not UV stable and will start to look dusty if not topcoated. The UV does not break down the POR-15 appreciably so the UV is not hurting the POR-15...just making it not look as good; and 2) you want to protect your POR-15 from scratches and nicks. Road debris can kick up and ding the coating and you can avoid that with a topcoat. Their Chassis Black and Stirling Silver topcoats are especially durable and bond well with the POR-15 paint so we recommend them. We generally recommend anywhere the sun sees the steel is where a topcoat should go. Any undercarriage steel parts not covered with belly pan should be topcoated.

Yes, two coats of POR-15 and two coats of top coat. Definitely two coats.

Let me know if you have additional questions or if I missed anything.
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Old 07-05-2012, 01:58 PM   #10
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for my first coat of Por-15 i was planning on getting gray to provide some contrast for the second coat. However i have some other hardware that needs painting...door hinges etc. so maybe i'll get the silver for the first coat and use what is left for the hardware.

will silver be a good first coat? will the 2nd and top coats bond as well to it as they would to the gray coat?
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Old 07-05-2012, 09:31 PM   #11
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also which Por 15 product for the tongue do you recommend?

chassis black
black cote
hard nose black
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Old 07-05-2012, 09:32 PM   #12
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Sorry to interrupt, but ya got any pictures of that Spartan to share???
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Old 07-05-2012, 11:37 PM   #13
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presently

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Old 07-06-2012, 07:11 AM   #14
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NICE! 1947? I have one that looks to be in about the same shape, can't wait to start in on her. Looks like yours is coming along nicely!
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