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Old 05-25-2005, 10:44 PM   #1
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POR-15 Question

There's lots of information on the forums about POR-15. I've found the web site for the product thanks to a link on Balrgn's personal web page. I've read about various other places to purchase the product and many suggestions on proper use/application/etc.

The question for forum members is this. Can y'all point me to a few prior threads that you might consider "all encompassing" or "knowledge base" type of references that you feel would be helpful? There's a lot of good information in the threads, it's just overwhelming sometimes because there is so much information. As always, thanks in advance.

Jim
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Old 05-25-2005, 10:47 PM   #2
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Try using the 'search' tool to narrow your reading material to topics you might be interested in.

Shari
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Old 05-25-2005, 10:58 PM   #3
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I have used the black and silver. The silver "fills" better and gives a glossy almost glassy surface. The Black seem to "soak in " better.

It's really rather less complicated than it seems.

Assuming the metal is structurally OK.

Steel bush off flaky rust ( don't kill yourself just bush off what's loose) , clean the metal, let dry, treatment solid heavy rust with metal ready, dry well, then por. OR.... just por it. New metal must be cleaned well and treated with the metal ready for the por to stick. Surface rust helps it work. After my frame was sandblasted I let it develope surface rust before painting with the por per the por guy. All have their directions. It is real important to read them. Call the Por 15 number they are very helpful. My 26 foot frame used two quarts. Do Not let any water including sweat, beer ect get into the por can. Do not put the lid back on the por can without a freezer bag between the lid and the can.
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Old 05-26-2005, 05:38 AM   #4
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Thanks for lookin at the page. I need to put some more detail there I think. What we found with the White Coat was it dries VERY fast in the humid weather. Make absolutely certain you have removed any and all silicone sealant. Any residue left the product will not adhere in that area. We cleaned the surface with lacquer thinner prior to application.

Mix no more than you can apply in hour, it sets up rapidly.

The more humid the faster it will set up, which is bad, due to shrinkage.

Tried 2 size nozzles, a 1.2 does not cut it, it atomizes and dries almost upon application. 1.6 to 2.0 (primer nozzle) work great. DO NOT try to use heat or heat lamps to assist in the curing, again it causes shrinkage. (tried it) They are not kidding about a 24 hour cure. After 72 hours mine was ROCK hard. (dropped the portable drill with a bit in it, no mark whew!)
We will be doing the Argosy with a paint brush as there is no need to remove anything. We did a test, the product lays out great no brush marks, but that was a small area...
Hope this helps, good luck!
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Old 05-26-2005, 08:36 AM   #5
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Also Consider Eastwood's Rust Encapsulating Paint...

In the just for what it's worth column, I recently tried Eastwood's rust encapsulating paint after getting rave reviews from three different guys I know who fix up old cars.

Its formulation appears to be relatively similar (just like POR,-15, any specks won't wash off the skin). I liked it for three reasons--the paint does not need UV protection in any color, the paint is also available in spray cans (Balgryn, I never want to clean this out of a sprayer, you are brave! ), and finally, even with regular shipping, I got supplies from them the day after ordering (nb they are somewhere in PA, I am in the DC area).

Prep is the same--brush off loose rust, a hose down is probably also good if there's lots of loose stuff. Then just paint away.

I think that both are very good paints, I just find the Eastwood product a tiny bit better. I wouldn't throw out any POR-15, but you may want to check it out see if it might be more suited to your use if you haven't already started buying paint.

Mary
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Old 05-26-2005, 10:31 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fireflyinva
(Balgryn, I never want to clean this out of a sprayer, you are brave! )

Mary
No worry, don't let that thought slow you down. This stuff cleans 100% and easy with enamal reducer. However I am the lucky one, I have a brother in the autobody bidness. He is my go to guy for paints...
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Old 10-26-2005, 06:15 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fireflyinva
In the just for what it's worth column, I recently tried Eastwood's rust encapsulating paint after getting rave reviews from three different guys I know who fix up old cars.

Mary
Firefly, i've decided to try this on my frame. That link is pretty convincing. And it's a bit cheaper and appears a bit easier to use. Let me know if you think it holds up well. I'll post some pic's as it goes along.

Jim
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