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Old 09-30-2003, 09:20 PM   #1
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POR-15 GLISTEN clearcoat- anyone used it?

POR-15 Glisten PC
Apparently this product was discussed about 8 months ago (can't find the thread) and appears to be the ultimate answer to sealing and maintaining a polish job. It is a 2 part system used
mostly on aluminum wheels. Has anyone tested this product?
Here's the info on it:

http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=246
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Old 09-30-2003, 10:20 PM   #2
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wow

this stuff is really inexpensive. i really want to know if any one has used this stuff.
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Old 10-01-2003, 04:43 AM   #3
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Por 15

I have not used this specific paint you are refering to but have just done the tongue and underside of my Airstream with Por 15. It is so incredibly hard it is almost like metal. When painted on with a brush, it gets smooth, like it was done with a gun. I was so impressed, I did the wheels on another trailer with the silver. They look like mag wheels. I think their paints are worth the extra price. They are excellent to get on the phone if you need more technical info.
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Old 10-01-2003, 09:43 AM   #4
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Based on the manufacturer's cover rates it would take about 1 gal/coat for a 22' trailer.they recommend 2 coat coverage minimum- so that calcs. out to approx.
$400 ($155/gal. x2, + wash + shipping).
I am considering calling POR to ask if they will front me the material to do a product test report on vintage Airstreams.
Just wanted to see if anyone else has used it first.
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Old 10-01-2003, 09:53 AM   #5
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If what I've heard about the black POR-15 is right, you'd better make sure the skin is perfect before you put this on, because you will NEVER get it off.

If you got someone to spray it, that would be pretty cool. The black stuff is used extensively by the classic auto restoration folks, and they swear by it.

-Don
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Old 10-01-2003, 10:26 AM   #6
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I don't know about the Glisten...but if it's anything like the silver POR-15, I wouldn't do it on the whole trailer! POR-15 is a resin-like paint, it dries super hard with a glass or metal-like finish. I used it on our bumper, step and tongue, it thickens and cures like resin as it's drying. I can't imagine how you would cover a large surface (like your whole trailer) before the consistency starts to thicken...even if it is sprayed. I could see it for a small item like a wheel, tongue, bumper, etc...but the whole trailer?

Even though it is a super-tough finish, it does still chip if hit or abraded. The catch that holds our step in place has already damaged it.

And if you don't like it after it's done or after it starts to chip, how do you remove it? And we all thought the original clearcoat was a b*%@# to remove!?

Shari
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Old 10-07-2003, 02:18 PM   #7
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I called POR and spoke to their tech. rep. who really believes Glisten PC will work well on AS's . I was happy to find out the coverage rates are more generous than their rust products - 3 coat coverage would take about 1 1/2 gals.
He emphasized that it was all about preparation and getting any oxidation or compounds off the skin.
If I decide to try the product I will report on the results, but I am still at least a few weeks away from getting the polish complete.
.
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Old 10-07-2003, 03:08 PM   #8
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Clear Coat

I'm dying to find out your results with this stuff. My 22' Safari is getting ready for another polish, and I will use this stuff if it works. Thanks for the thread.
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Old 10-28-2003, 10:43 AM   #9
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Lightbulb Why don't we....

Why don't we, as a group, get on A/S case about using something like this if it solves all of our problems..
Let them know that "COST' be damn'd...it the long term results that "we want"..`!~
What do you say?

ciao
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Old 11-02-2003, 01:58 PM   #10
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I have talked to my local POR-15 dealer who told me that he wouldn't use this stuff on the trailer. He said he rarely even recommends it for wood. I've also been told that POR-15 suggests that you heat the metal to guarantee that there is no moisture on the metal. My dealer said that if I did decide to use it, not to bitch to him about it if I wasn't happy... because he said I'll really be unhappy if I try to take it off. I use POR-15 religiously on frame and inside body panels on vehicles I've restored.

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Old 11-02-2003, 02:18 PM   #11
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Let's just say..

LeeA
Quote:
I've also been told that POR-15 suggests that you heat the metal to guarantee that there is no moisture on the metal.
The statement about moisture is true..But, I take issue with you about the statement of heating the metal
Note this:
Quote:
AP120 - GLISTEN PC Prep
Quote:
Designed exclusively for use with our great GLISTEN PCTM clearcoat, AP-120 prep guarantees perfect adhesion of GLISTEN PC to any metal surface, especially chrome or polished aluminum, where good adhesion is often difficult to achieve. AP-120 is non-flammable with no noxious fumes. Wear rubber or latex gloves when using.
Further more, they go on to state:

(You may need Adobe Reader for this:
Application guide

Nowhere does it say a word about Heating the surface If you can prove otherwise, I'd like to see it in print from the manufacture. "Not from a friend who says, a friend told him that someone said"..

ciao
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Old 11-02-2003, 02:29 PM   #12
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Just going by the recommendation of a guy who has sold their products for years. Go ahead and try it, because I'm not.

Lee
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Old 11-02-2003, 02:45 PM   #13
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Lightbulb I'll stand by my

Original statement.."Concerning the use of heat"

I take no issue with it's use..That's an individual choice.

ciao
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Old 11-02-2003, 02:45 PM   #14
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I have had a conversation earlier with the head office tech rep. from POR and he says they are re-writing the application spec. sheet on Glisten. No release date yet.
He has had alot of experience with the product in Australia, where the U.V. levels are higher and sun exposure is 320-340 days /year. He thinks it would work well on A/S's. If you read the description on their website, it states that it draws moisture from the atmosphere during the curing stage to achieve it's hardness. I did not see anywhere, nor did he mention heating the metal prior to application.
Unless someone finds something better soon, I still intend to test the product - hopefully with POR 's support so we can answre this question once and for all.
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Old 11-02-2003, 03:11 PM   #15
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Re: Por 15

I'm confused. Is this discussion about a chrome like paint, or a clear coat to protect a polished trailer?

Quote:
Originally posted by Richard Vroom
I have not used this specific paint you are refering to but have just done the tongue and underside of my Airstream with Por 15.
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Old 11-02-2003, 07:18 PM   #16
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It's a clear coat. It's supposed to have the famous POR15 'tough as nails' finish, but in a perfectly clear product. As soon as I find some I'm going to test it out on the polished parts of our 'vette, to see if it protects them and saves me from the constant polishing. I don't think I'd want to try it on my trailer though.
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Old 11-02-2003, 07:21 PM   #17
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The only problem I see with any "permanent" clearcoat finish. I have yet to find anything that will adhere to a highly polished mirror finish for any length of time. If you get a bubble, what's to keep you from peeling off the whole finish?
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Old 11-02-2003, 07:42 PM   #18
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I used the black POR15 on my mustang's floorboards, and it really adhered well, even though the floors weren't perfectly prepped. My concern with the Glisten product would be that if you got a bubble in it, you WOULDN'T be able to peel it off and do it over. That's why I want to try it out on the vette. I've got a lot of polished parts on the undercarriage that never get seen (the previous owner went WAY overboard) and I hate to waste my time polishing them - but I don't want them to get all nasty either because I want it to hold it's value. So I'm hoping the Glisten will do a good enough job to protect the shine so I don't have to crawl under there and polish anymore.

That's mainly why I wouldn't use it on the trailer. There's a lot of prep work involved, and then you'd have to apply the Glisten in a very clean area so you wouldn' get dust, bugs, or debris stuck in it before it dried. I think it would be a pretty tough job to do perfectly.
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Old 11-02-2003, 09:50 PM   #19
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The flow-out capabilities of the product would make it very difficult to get bubbles.
The drying time is about 15-20 mins. to the touch and then you can re-coat.They claim even brushing it on you will not get brush strokes.
ON THE HEATING ISSUE : I did find mention of 'warming small items' if the ambient temperature was less than 64 degrees.
The tech told me that because of the hardness ,stone chips/briuses can occur but as long as they are touched up no problems of peeling will result. If water is allowed to get under the chip/bruise it will result in growth of the problem.
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Old 11-02-2003, 10:13 PM   #20
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Exclamation

Quote:
If water is allowed to get under the chip/bruise it will result in growth of the problem.
Has anybody asked what would be involved if you (or the next owner) want to remove the Glisten once applied...either because your unhappy with the results or areas of unrepaired damage spreading? I can see dirt (with the water) getting in chipped areas then someone touching-up over it....scary!

Shari

BTW, Maxwell will stay naked...
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