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Old 07-24-2015, 12:16 PM   #15
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Bob,
Thank you so much. I have contacted SealoFlex about their product. Asked a few questions of the flexibility, application and durability (Texas sun). I will try to post their replies on the forum.
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Old 07-24-2015, 12:45 PM   #16
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Turns out I just had to buy a gallon today....
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Old 07-24-2015, 01:00 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by aquinob View Post
I have no affiliation with the company, but am happy with their products. Here is pertinent info on the reflectowhite coating:

From the website:.....................

All about the same as the ceramiflex I used almost 3 years ago.
I suppose any white paint will reflect most of the sunlight away. Ceramiflex had micro ceramic particles which enhances reflection and heat reduction I don't know how much difference it makes but what is missing from the Reflectolite description is any mention of reflectivity, particularly when it comes to heat.
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Old 07-24-2015, 01:07 PM   #18
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Ginger,
The answers to your questions are highlighted in red below.

Sincerely,
Burt Roth



I have a vintage Airstream Travel Trailer. This is a aluminum body travel trailer.

1. Would this product adhere to the aluminum. Our Sealoflex Finish Coat will bond directly to aluminum without a primer, but I would recommend the area to be coated is pressure washed clean.
2. What is its life expectancy with such harsh elements here in the Texas sun. With two coats of Sealoflex Finish Coat applied at 100 sq ft per gallon per coat; this would be considered a 10 year coating.
3. Is it flexible enough to stand up to the constant motion of moving and traveling down the highways and back roads. Yes, this is an elastomeric coating and has been used on Airstreams in the past with great success.
4. what type of prep work to install & how do I apply this to aluminum? Simply but thoroughly pressure wash clean the area and apply in two coats by brush, roller or paint sprayer using a 525 size tip. I would recommend running a tape line so that you create a nice clean edge.


My goal is to paint the roof 8’ x 30’ to help reflect the suns heat and help control the temperatures inside. A 5 gallon bucket of Sealoflex Finish Coat will be enough to coat the roof.
Would it be okay for me to publish your answer on our Airstream Forum? Yes

Sincerely,
Ginger Zeringue
The Woodlands, TX.



Sent By:
Burt Roth

Sealoflex, Inc.
Technical Representative
2520 Oscar Johnson Drive
Charleston, SC 29405

843-266-8622 Direct
843-718-7177 Cell
800-770-6466 Office
843-554-6458 FAX
http://www.sealoflex.com
email: broth@sealoflex.com
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Old 07-24-2015, 01:17 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Air83 View Post
Ginger,
The answers to your questions are highlighted in red below.

Sincerely,
Burt Roth



I have a vintage Airstream Travel Trailer. This is a aluminum body travel trailer.

1. Would this product adhere to the aluminum. Our Sealoflex Finish Coat will bond directly to aluminum without a primer, but I would recommend the area to be coated is pressure washed clean.
2. What is its life expectancy with such harsh elements here in the Texas sun. With two coats of Sealoflex Finish Coat applied at 100 sq ft per gallon per coat; this would be considered a 10 year coating.
3. Is it flexible enough to stand up to the constant motion of moving and traveling down the highways and back roads. Yes, this is an elastomeric coating and has been used on Airstreams in the past with great success.
4. what type of prep work to install & how do I apply this to aluminum? Simply but thoroughly pressure wash clean the area and apply in two coats by brush, roller or paint sprayer using a 525 size tip. I would recommend running a tape line so that you create a nice clean edge.


My goal is to paint the roof 8’ x 30’ to help reflect the suns heat and help control the temperatures inside. A 5 gallon bucket of Sealoflex Finish Coat will be enough to coat the roof.
Would it be okay for me to publish your answer on our Airstream Forum? Yes

Sincerely,
Ginger Zeringue
The Woodlands, TX.



Sent By:
Burt Roth

Sealoflex, Inc.
Technical Representative
2520 Oscar Johnson Drive
Charleston, SC 29405

843-266-8622 Direct
843-718-7177 Cell
800-770-6466 Office
843-554-6458 FAX
http://www.sealoflex.com
email: broth@sealoflex.com
Ginger, based on my experience with Ceramiflex I did my roof on my Tradewind with less than a gallon. I would buy any extra finish coat you have if you can get it to me in New Mexico.
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Old 07-24-2015, 01:47 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lumatic View Post
I suppose any white paint will reflect most of the sunlight away. Ceramiflex had micro ceramic particles which enhances reflection and heat reduction I don't know how much difference it makes but what is missing from the Reflectolite description is any mention of reflectivity, particularly when it comes to heat.
According to what I read on their website, its supposed to be highly reflective if that helps out any. I think most of the benefit comes from the color and the fact it moves with the metal and is easy to apply. I'm sure there are other paints/coatings that work well too, but I've been happy with the ceramiflex so far. Its probably one of the best things you can do to improve livability in the summer if the roof isnt already painted.
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Old 07-24-2015, 09:03 PM   #21
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Has anyone used Kool Seal Roof Coating ? My local RV dealer is selling this product. He said it will work on the AS.
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Old 07-25-2015, 10:07 AM   #22
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As a person who deals with refurbishing old stuff, I am going to make light of a situation that may or may not pertain to some coatings.

The only thing worse than having to deal with a peeling finish at repaint time, is dealing with a peeling finish that is thick or otherwise difficult to sand....

I want to say that ceramic and/or "rubberized" coatings will be difficult to deal with indeed.

Just food for thought.
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Old 07-25-2015, 12:25 PM   #23
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I did it and it works!

White Aluminum Kool Seal is recommended by the Avion group for sealing the main seam that runs longitudinally down the length of the coach's roof. It is good stuff for sealing joints. It is not, however, a paint.

It sounds to me like these new "Wonder Coatings" are just what the Doctor ordered. I did my roof the "Old School" way.

Aluminum doesn't like paint. So you used to have to etch it first. Then prime it. Only then could you paint it and hope that the paint would hold.

On my own coach (Avion 34X which is actually 35'-11" long), I got tired of the single a/c unit (13,000 BTU Coleman) not being able to keep it cool in the hot FL sun. So I did some research into painting the roof white. Bear in mind that the Avion trailers were shaped like the current Airstreams....a bit more square than my '77 Excella was. So you can get a little more percentage of the roof painted white and not see it from the road than you can with the older Airstreams. Ok, all that being said....

I washed the trailer off very thoroughly and then masked off about 24" down from the top rectangle to be painted. I hosed the sides of the trailer down very "wetly" leaving the top dry, after the original cleansing. I then applied an etching chemical that I got from "Aircraft Spruce and Specialty" which etched the aluminum so that a primer would adhere to it. You let the chemical eat the aluminum (eat, er I mean etch...) for 15 minutes. Then you hose it all off, whereby I also hosed the sides down doubley well to make sure that there were not etcher streaks. Then, you apply the special primer. I used a Zinc Chromate primer that I got from U.S. Air (came out the back door of their maintenance hangar). I put it on with a hand roller, just like painting our living room wall. It might have actually been the more modern epoxy primer that they use on aircraft as Zinc Chromate is considered nasty enviromentally.....but it's good stuff for preservation of aluminum. I wore a real two element paint shop respirator when I put this stuff on. So I rolled the roof twice; still masked off, applying this primer. It was done by 8:00pm that night. I let it dry over night. The next morning, the roof was a solid dried yellow green of Zinc Chromate/Epoxy and hard as a brick. Now that it's etched and primed, I could paint it with any good paint. I used Rustoleum Bright White oil paint and put on two coats. After it was dry, I removed all of the masking tape and paper.

It made a stupendous job! I was super happy with it. But even better, it cut the inside temperature by a full ten degrees F. No kidding! It really works! I'd have thought that silver would reflect heat well, but the white does it so much better. My 34' triple axle would stay decent now in the hot FL sun with the old Coleman 13k btu a/c. But when she finally gave up the ghost, I replaced it with a new 15k btu a/c and it will freeze you out now.

Anyway, whichever process you choose, do it by the book and do it right, paint your roof bright reflective white, and be happy that you can now stay cool

See ya on the road,
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Old 07-25-2015, 08:08 PM   #24
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I have painted a lot of aluminum, I have seldom used an etch primer, and now I seldom even prime.

If the surface is clean and sanded to a nice 80 to 220 grit scratch, and painted with a quality coating, it will stick.

It is true that paint manufactures recommend a lot of different products to put down before paint,,,, and they sell all of em..

#JustSayin...
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Old 07-25-2015, 09:46 PM   #25
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If the surface is clean and sanded to a nice 80 to 220 grit scratch, and painted with a quality coating, it will stick.
Do you sand the whole surface first with 80 and then 220? Do you use anything in between like 120/150?
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Old 07-26-2015, 01:34 PM   #26
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Painting the roof

I cant remember which paper I used on my roof. It was likely 80 grit. Either will work (and anything in between) to get enough "tooth" to promote adhesion. It goes a lot faster with 80, I will say I likely used this on my DA because I am lazy that way...
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Old 07-26-2015, 04:43 PM   #27
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Good one!

t is true that paint manufactures recommend a lot of different products to put down before paint,,,, and they sell all of em..

J. Morgan, a very good point! And probably more true than we'd care to admit!

When I think about it, all etching does is slightly roughen the surface. Which is exactly what you did with your DA sander.

The only caveat I'd say is that you have to be careful what type of sand paper you use. Some is aluminum oxide, some is silica carbide, some is garnet, and then you get into ceramics. You don't want to use silica carbide on aluminum. It can react with it and cause corrosion. I'd probably stick with aluminum oxide.

I was just following the procedure for airplanes. But, the FAA won't let you sand the paint off an airplane because you "might" sand through the rivet heads. If you sand that much, you've got other problems...but I guess they regulate to the lowest common denominator. On the next trailer I get, I may just use your procedure and call it good.

Cheers!
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Old 07-26-2015, 05:04 PM   #28
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And... Yep, you can sand the tops off of rivets real quick!

I know.

It doesn't take long to learn to be careful around the rivets.

I used to follow most of the recommended steps for painting aluminum, but I let a step go here and there on a trailer that didn't matter, and five or ten, or twenty years later it did not make a difference.

What did make a difference is when I allowed sanding to get sloppy.

A lot of these steps in painting aluminum I think has to do with factory production where sanding is too labor intensive, so they use chemicals.
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