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Old 09-17-2016, 09:02 AM   #1
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1968 22' Safari
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Paint removal on name plate

Hi folks, new AS owner here. Of all the items needing to be addressed on this 'mature' gal, this isn't one of the big ones. The previous owner painted sloppily over the serial number area and then sloppily riveted the plate back on.

Any tip on how to remove the red/white/blue paint in the center so that I can read the #s?

Also do these plates polish up like the body? What are they made from?

Thanks so much in advance for any help.
Laurie
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Old 09-17-2016, 09:50 AM   #2
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I'd remove it from the trailer (drill out the rivets), use a mild stripper like Citri-Strip to get the paint off, then...start over with the painting.

Same process, different badge.

Shari
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Old 09-17-2016, 10:47 AM   #3
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1968 22' Safari
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Thanks Shari! Drill out the rivets you say??? (knees knocking) I've not tried drilling rivets yet though I have a rivet gun and some assorted rivets. I'm a little scared!

I've watched several University of YouTube videos on how to rivet and remove rivets but how to choose what size rivet to be the replacement hasn't sunk into the old grey matter yet.

I do like the idea of removing it to work on it. I hadn't even thought of that.
Thanks again!!
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Old 09-17-2016, 07:23 PM   #4
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It's a little strange...

Hi There,

If it were my problem, I'd drill it off (the rivets are soft, and it's easy), strip it, make sure the serial number matched my title, fill the rivet holes with JB Weld, re-finish and paint, then re-adhere with outdoor bonding tape.

Originally, the ID Plate is fastened on from from behind the outer skin, before the inner skin goes on.Your plate should not have any rivets in it. It has been removed and improperly re-mounted.

There's some variation, but generally, The letter/number on your plate should start with an I for International, then a 22 for the length, then 8 for year, there might be a T for twin, an S or J for location of manufacture, and then the last numbers tell its place in production. Sometimes instead of a T for twin, or a D for double, the twins are below 500 in production number, and the doubles start after 500.

Pardon my patina, but the image shows how it should appear in its original fashion. If you can read it, My Land Yacht trimmed (non-International trim is designated by letter O) 20 foot 1968 Double (Series starts with number 500) was the 37th built in Jackson Center
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Old 09-18-2016, 07:39 AM   #5
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1968 22' Safari
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Thank you! All great ideas.

You say 'make sure the serial number matched my title' - what if they don't - could that be a problem?

Also you mention to 're-finish' - what exactly does that mean. I've not seen one that has been taken back to original other than painting the letters.
Are these made of aluminum and should they be polished?

Sorry to sound 'dumb' - that's not my intent, I just am not that well versed yet.
Thanks again.
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Old 09-19-2016, 01:55 PM   #6
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1977 27' Overlander
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Rivets be gone! I agree with Aluminuminum these badges should not have rivets let alone pop rivets. You have to wonder if this badge was removed to re-finish only?????�� Check the serial number against the number at the frame on the hitch Right hand side. If the number stamped on the hitch matches your tittle then no worries. That's the number that matters. If your tittle and frames numbers don't match the badge then someone messed with the badge and you will have to re-stamp the serial number in the badge. Happy trails
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Old 09-19-2016, 01:57 PM   #7
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The answer to your question on the material that is used to make these badges, it is potted aluminum cast metal. Easy to restore.
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Old 09-19-2016, 01:59 PM   #8
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No dumb questions being asked. We all learn something new everyday. Regards
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Old 09-19-2016, 03:49 PM   #9
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Here's a thread I saved about repainting a VIN plate
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...tml#post419478

And here's one for a name plate
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f474...ler-33391.html

Hope that helps,
Cathy
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Old 09-21-2016, 05:48 AM   #10
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1968 22' Safari
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Thanks!! I haven't been able to find any numbers on the frame. Could be buried under several layers of grey paint. I'll look again, maybe I'm just missing them. I'm not sure how deeply they were incised.

I did find this image on Pinterest so I see that they do shine up with some elbow grease. My fear now (aside from removing my first rivet) is that it's been glued on with some industrial epoxy in addition to the rivets....

Thanks again!
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Old 09-21-2016, 05:48 AM   #11
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Thanks so much Cathy! Nice detail work there!
That is helpful!
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Old 09-21-2016, 10:18 AM   #12
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1968 22' Safari
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Found the serial #

It's mostly located under the curbside LP tank. I can see IO but nothing more until the tank comes off. Should be soon since we're having a hitch receiver welded to the frame.
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