Originally Posted by ijustlee
Hi folks, I'm new here and was hoping that somebody who has tried this will share their results. I need to paint the roof of my 1973 31' Soverign and touch up the sides. There large areas of the roof where the clearcoat is gone and I'm not sure what kind of coating it was. Will spray can lacquer or enamel work to cover the orignal coating, or will the factory coating wrinkle from one of them? Also what is the best calking product since the 10x that was on there isn't made anymore? I used grey silicone around a few windows and it seems to work well but is not good for rivets because it makes too much mess. I think I have a short time before the winter rains start here in California, if we get any! Leland
use silicone of any kind on the exterior.
The sun breaks it down, and it will then separate. When that happens, then the next thing you might try is to use the proper sealer. WRONG AGAIN.
In order to use the proper sealer, you MUST REMOVE
any and all traces of the silicone, because it created a chemical barrier that you cannot see, for the correct sealer.
Vulkem or the faster setting Sikaflex, or for very small seams Parbond must be used. If not, you will pay more penalties. Thousands upon thousands of owners on this Forums have used those sealers and will vouch for it's effectiveness and longevity.
You cannot paint the roof without first, completely removing the old clearcoat, which has an age limit of 5 to 6 years. Then, you must sand into the area that you will paint. NOT SCUFF, BUT SAND, with no smaller than 220 grit. Then apply a flexible primer. Let that age 1 to 2 days, then use a white paint of your choice, just so it's intended for out door use. Auto paints are the best.
Touching up the rest of the shell, is a waste of time and money, since the original has aged out decades ago. No matter what you may use, it will lift up and crinkle the original clear coat.
Your best bet, is to strip the entire trailer, then paint the roof white and use the current clearcoat for the rest of the shell. DO NOT
think of using automotive clear paint. Those paints are designed to be used "on top" of another paint and not directly on metal. Auto clears are not designed for a direct metal application.
Most of the above, is most likely not what you want to hear, but experience and time have thousands of times been proved.
If you have any other questions, please post them here, and I am sure that many will respond.