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Old 04-12-2010, 09:03 PM   #1
More than one rivet loose
 
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My POR-15 is here! My POR-15 is here!

I have some frame rust up on the A-frame, the skid "plates" and the stabilization jacks.

I ordered a sampler 6 pack of 4 oz cans. 2 Satin Gloss Black, 2 Silver, 1 clear, 1 Gray. One their website the silver looks dark enough to pewter to be used on the A-frame.
A little power sanding and a wipe down and we coat away! no more rust!
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Old 04-12-2010, 09:10 PM   #2
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Get some really good, really long gloves. It's over a week later, and I still have partial leopard forearms- it doesn't come off like regular paint. Other than that, the stuff is wonderful.
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Old 04-12-2010, 10:11 PM   #3
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keep in mind the STANDARD p-15 is NOT UV tolerant.

it's meant to be used in DARK places or on stuff that will be COVERED with other stuff...

so IF used on the A frame, it needs to be COATED with something else...

1 of the TOPCOAT products from p-15 or the OEM a/s tongue paint or some other paint.

this might not matter on the skid plates or stab/jacks but for SURE it matters on the A frame.

cheers
2air'
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Old 04-12-2010, 10:55 PM   #4
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If you're looking for a good paint to cover steel that can handle exposure to UV, I like this stuff - Aluthane. It's a moisture cured polyurethane, and has a nice silver color,
and covers very well.

The website is a little... 1998, but the stuff works. I used it over our epoxied floor, and even scooting the fridge in this weekend didn't mar it.

It's about $30/quart or $85/gallon.

- Bart
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Old 04-13-2010, 01:09 AM   #5
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Just lost a long post to time-out, must;ve been at the stroke of midnight when the servers were counting the 1/2 cents Ad revenues....

Those little cans are claimed to cover 12 square feet - have 2nd and 3rd targets prepped and ready - differential cover, hitch receiver - brackets, hitch gooseneck, breakaway chains, etc...

The paint is thin and can cover a lot but beware of brushing over pits and having teeny bubble films that will pop as it dries leaving the unwetted pit..

The POR-15 is 30% naptha, once that is mostly evaporated is when the worst fumes come about so be upwind when going back for 2nd/3rd coats...

I used canned air, the PC dust blaster stuff, to drizzle into containers to displace humid air before and after pouring and it worked well to reseal but ya hafta use a fresh cantainer, jelly canning jars work nice but beware glass breaks; if the lid bulges a cure has started and it is pressurizing from CO2 release...

The exposed POR-15 has gone to a powdery perfectly flat black surface on my A-Frame, zero rust and seems self-limiting as that blocks further damage but I like the effect of military drab finish so far..

If I remember anything I missed I'll add-on...

GOOD LUCK and happy painting !
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Old 04-13-2010, 01:23 AM   #6
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I use propane from my torch, and seal the top of the can w/ a piece of saran wrap underneath the lid.... this works pretty well, as the propane is heavier than air and quite dry. Trick is not to pull the trigger on the torch and light off the Aluthane ...

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Old 04-13-2010, 07:10 AM   #7
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Just finished POR-15ing my frame, as 65Safari65 said, protective gloves and clothing are a must. If you get it on you it will not come off.
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Old 04-13-2010, 01:13 PM   #8
More than one rivet loose
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman View Post
keep in mind the STANDARD p-15 is NOT UV tolerant.

it's meant to be used in DARK places or on stuff that will be COVERED with other stuff...

so IF used on the A frame, it needs to be COATED with something else...

1 of the TOPCOAT products from p-15 or the OEM a/s tongue paint or some other paint.

this might not matter on the skid plates or stab/jacks but for SURE it matters on the A frame.

cheers
2air'
I have used POR-15 before on aircraft. We had one that would do whale surveys. Spent a lot of time in highly corrosive environment. It was all covered by fairings and inspection plates. I am planning on painting over the POR-15 with the can of Pewter Grey from Airstream. I am hoping to maintain the original look.
The silver will be for the stabilization jacks.
Thanks to all for the storage info. I bought the small cans because I expected them to be single use.
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Old 04-13-2010, 01:39 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thecatsandi View Post
...I am hoping to maintain the original look.
The silver will be for the stabilization jacks...
gotcha

the a/s cans are pricey, but the paint is surprisingly good. it's sorta self leveling so it's a pretty even finish and durable.

this project is on my 2do list as well and with the same 2 items...

cheers
2air'
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Old 04-13-2010, 03:15 PM   #10
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I did a hensley with POR15. Blasted it to bare metal, primered with their special witches brew surface prep stuff, then the POR15 followed by their whiz bag primer and finally a rattle can topcoat. So far the stuff is bullet proof.

Thinkin about doing the stabilizers now...wouldn't they look cool gloss black!
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Old 04-13-2010, 04:13 PM   #11
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Doesn't hold up well to welding . Otherwise good. I found the black alot thinner than the silver.
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