Minor Rust/Paint Missing on Galvanized Parts

heyskipper · 02-23-2003, 05:14 PM

Hi Everyone

Sorry for the blitz on posts (three only, I will stop after this one). Our ’99 25 foot Safari has some minor dings and rust appearing on the tongue, and on the chrome wheel hubs, and we have chipped black paint on the galvanized rear bumper areas, etc.

What is the best method for proactively attacking the rust on the tongue and hubs from your perspective? Also, how should I attack the rather large missing chips of black paint from the galvanized bumper parts on the rear of the trailer?

Thanks in advance for your insights!

Carl & Cheryl Jackson
Montgomery, TX

John · 02-23-2003, 06:29 PM

Carl,

Since I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night, I'm not able to help you, but please never feel that you're asking too many questions. That's what this forums for, so please ask away!!

I'm sure one of the members who have had similar problems will answer shortly!!

John

thenewkid64 · 02-23-2003, 06:49 PM

The method of maintenance varies by owner.

Some would sandblast the entire tongue, POR 15 it and repaint with the matching paint available at your local AS dealer.

Others would spot treat the rust and also coat with the matching paint. IMHO that is the route I would take. If you are afraid of the over spray, spray some in a disposable cup and use a disposable brush.

As to the rear bumper, you will have a tough time getting any paint to stick to the galvanized metal. The only way I know how to make it stick is to sand the galvanized coating off and then prime. This would defeat the whole protective nature of the coating in the first place. So I say touch up, unless someone can recommend a primer that will bond to the galvanic coating.

nickcrowhurst · 03-03-2003, 05:59 PM

The standard primer for galvanized steel is one that contains zinc chromate. I used this on the galvanized bilge keels and rudder of a 6 ton sailboat I built over 25 years ago, and the surface is still good. (25 seasons in salt water!). If you try Google or your favorite search engine with "zinc chromate primer galvanized" or similar, you will find manufacturers and stockists. I just tried it. The only thing to remember is that freshly galvanized surfaces are best left to weather for a few months before priming. You won't have that problem, of course. Good luck. Nick.

**john hd** · 03-03-2003, 06:07 PM

regular household vinegar will etch gavanized steel in order to paint it.

i used this techique before painting radio tower steel. works well and is non toxic.

john

53flyingcloud · 03-03-2003, 06:29 PM

Nick Crowhurst
Wasn't there a Donald Crowhurst, who sailed the world once alone and, was lost at sea?
Just saw the name and, GAWD that just pop'd out..
ciao

nickcrowhurst · 03-03-2003, 08:30 PM

You're quite right. Donald lived about an hour from us, in Teignmoth, Devon, England, and sailed the trimaran "Teignmouth Electron" in the round the world sailing race. He disappeared from the vessel, which was found floating in the Atlantic. On board was his log-book, which indicated that he faked his position reporting and became mentally unbalanced. There is an excellent book entitled "The strange voyage of Donald Crowhurst" Highly recommended. " This ought to be about exterior restoration of Airstreams, but you did ask! To make amends, perhaps I could mention that I use the very finest 00 grade wire wool very carefully on small exterior panels when re-spraying with Airstream aerosol clearcote. I have done both endcaps that way, and the result is acceptable, if not perfect. I only do it if corrosion has already badly attacked the aluminum, making a perfect finish impossible. Nick.

53flyingcloud · 03-03-2003, 09:10 PM

Nick,
You're quite right and, I take the full blame for bring it up.
How wonderful for you that you're able to get out there and, keep up on your A/S.
I saw not to long ago, someone posted a picture of a rally in the UK..Did you by any chance get to go? As I recalled, there were maybe 6 or 7 units that, got it together.
Thanks for the brief detour. Always enjoy learning new things.
ciao

nickcrowhurst · 03-04-2003, 08:35 AM

Hi Flying Cloud, we keep our Excella on a friend's farm in North Florida, and spend the winters there, which takes me brings me neatly onto the subject of Exterior Restoration of Airstreams! The best thing I've done to preserve the exterior, after restoration (13 years with the previous owner in the Florida sun had wrought havoc with the exterior) was to build a shelter for the whole trailer. To do this cheaply I got 4 used surplus telegraph poles from the local power company, and cut them in half to make 8 poles about 13 feet long.I laid out a floor plan 32 feet long and 16 feet wide, dug holes for 4 corner poles, and for four side poles , spaced to avoid the awning arms when extended. Fitting the poles into the holes, single-handed, without damaging the far side of the holes is tough, but I used a piece of thin aluminium sheet, about 3 feet by one foot, rolled it into half a tube, and placed this down each hole in turn. As I tipped each pole in, it slid down the metal sheet to the bottom of the hole, and the sheet could then be withdrawn for use on the next hole. I connected the side poles together with 8" by 2" pressure treated timbers and galvanized bolts, fishplating two 16 foot planks with bolts, glue, and a 4 foot plate of 8 by 2. I attached 8 by 2 rafters to these with galvanised straps, topped these with a sheet steel zinc plated roof. The roof had a slight fall to run off rain, but further north you would doubtless need more pitch because of snow. At the top of the south side ( which is the side away from the trailer door) I added four sheets of 8' by 4' used plywood to keep low sun from damaging the trailer. Total cost was $600 and two long days work for one guy.(me!) I was lucky to get the holes dug for me by a post borer on the back of a truck. It's just great to keep it out of the sun and rain. Nick.