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Old 04-05-2006, 12:05 AM   #15
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Remember that POR15 "likes" rusty surfaces, even better than smooth sanded ones, so you might not want to go overboard on super-cleaning it. Make sure they're smooth, but a little rust left on it, as long as it's not loose scales, makes the POR15 adhere better. This is my experience.

I also read elsewhere that olive oil gets POR15 off of your skin pretty nicely (but I can't quantify this advice!! I had to scrub skin off to get it off of me).

Have fun, it's messy but I like working with POR15. There's a lot of advice on the stuff at www.por15store.com it's not the company's website I don't think, but a lot of questions are answered there. I'm thinking of coating my garage floor with it this summer maybe.
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Old 04-05-2006, 06:36 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinkflamingoes
Remember that POR15 "likes" rusty surfaces, even better than smooth sanded ones, so you might not want to go overboard on super-cleaning it. Make sure they're smooth, but a little rust left on it, as long as it's not loose scales, makes the POR15 adhere better. This is my experience.
ok..so do you need to do the "Metal Ready" prep? This is a job I want to tackle soon and I need to get my order in...

Also, can I top coat after the POR15 with the "tool box grey" from Sears seeing how my tongue is the dark grey color and can I expect the same results down the road or would I be better off just going with the black POR15. Thanks
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Old 04-05-2006, 06:53 AM   #17
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I can answer a couple of the questions posed earlier.

Metal ready is designed to clean and "etch" the metal. What it does basically is give the POR-15 something to "grip" onto in order to hold on to the metal better. Does that sentence make sense? You don't have to use it, but it makes the job easier.

The directions on the can of POR-15 say to get rid of all the old paint and not to apply it over existing paint. I sandblasted nearly the entire frame, so applying the POR was a bit easier. But since I did a "shell on" floor replacement, there was still paint in a few areas that couldn't be sandblasted. I hand sanded these areas and put the POR right on top of the old paint. Only time will tell if that was a good decision.

There's a better explanation in my main thread here, if you want to read thru it: http://www.airforums.com/forum...e-15132-9.html

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Old 04-05-2006, 07:50 AM   #18
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I guess I will use the metal prep after a good going over with a drill with a metal brush attachment. Still not sure about the topcoat. Would like to hear any feedback from anybody that has used the Sears "tool box grey"...Has it held up is my main question (after how many years?) and did it apply nicely?

Thanks for the link to your thread Jim....Your Sovereign looks great!

It's snowing like crazzzzy here in CT
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Old 04-05-2006, 10:10 AM   #19
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You should use Metal Prep anywhere the metal is new and hasn't been rust pitted. I had a few sections of new steel where the POR-15 peeled off because I didn't do a good job with the Metal Prep.

The Metal Prep contains a phosphate that protects the metal from moisture and air prior to painting. That is why I recommend Metal Prep rather than just an acid etch. It leaves a fine white coating on the metal that you paint over.

Rusty areas need to be cleaned with a non-residue detergent like Marine Clean, especially if they have any oil or grease contamination. I didn't use Metal Prep where the steel was rusted.
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Old 04-05-2006, 12:10 PM   #20
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Re: the Tool Box Grey...I think most folks, once they put that pricey POR15 on, invest in a POR15 product to topcoat as well. If POR15 has a grey topcoat to use, you might as well use it. That way you don't have to worry about it not working or peeling-chipping off in the future.
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