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Old 03-11-2015, 03:18 PM   #1
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2007 28' Safari SE
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Filiform Corrosion: Repair Talk Only

First of all, my apologies to the contributing authors of the 153 page manifesto, but I find that it's "unreadable" for what I'm looking for: the best way to treat (or not) filiform corrosion in my 2007 Safari. If you have any input, please give me your 2 cents, with pictures. Before and after pictures, please. I don't need to see any more pictures of corrosion just for the sake of it - I can look at my trailer and see it

No offense, but I'm not interested in who has it, why it's caused, what Airstream should or shouldn't do, the science of aluminum, Alcoa's role, etc. Just looking to hear the experiences of those who have decided to take action.

For what it's worth, I'm planning on scraping the filiform off the belt line, wiping with Corrosion X, touching with nail polish and installing trim over the rivet line. On my taillight assembly, I'm stripping it and painting with powder coat aluminum and clear coat.

What I'm unsure about is what I'm going to do about the area around the marker lights (pictured).

Thanks for your input and practical advice!
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Old 03-11-2015, 03:58 PM   #2
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On my '07 Safari and our '14 FC, I wipe any diligent with Corrosion X. I do it in the spring when I get ready for the season and again when I winterized. The minimal corrosion on the '07 never progressed in the 7 years we owned it.

I don't see any on the '14, but they added a belt line trim that hides the place where it mostly occurred on the '07.

It's part of life and not a big deal to me.


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Old 03-11-2015, 04:24 PM   #3
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So you don't scrape into the clearcoat, you just wipe over it and that has contained it? I could live with that as long as it's not getting worse...
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Old 03-11-2015, 04:37 PM   #4
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Hey TowAir, you can search for a post by "HowardL". He describes how he treated his rig corrosion with a product called Nyalic. The facts, just the facts.


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Old 03-11-2015, 05:57 PM   #5
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Towair- yes that's all I do. I also keep the trailer waxed - I do that once a year.


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Old 03-11-2015, 06:17 PM   #6
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......you can read about it, talk about it or not about it.

Short-cuts didn't work for me, take the time, all the information is readily available.

It's not so much what you do, but that your doing it consistently.
Inspect, clean, seal.

It's not Rocket Science after all, well maybe it is...a little.

Bob
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Old 03-12-2015, 03:28 AM   #7
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Thanks, Robert. Can you advise how you personally do the inspect, clean, and seal process?
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Old 03-12-2015, 10:46 AM   #8
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The answers you seek are found in the thread referenced above by CannonBall. If you found if unreadable due to length, then you can start reading around post# 2107 for specific cleaning and re-seal methods:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f142...ml#post1500831
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Old 03-12-2015, 11:20 AM   #9
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Recently went to a seminar put on by nuvite. They explained the main reason filliform occurs is because the edges of the aluminum panels are not treated. Anywhere a cut is made in the panels exposes an untreated edge.
Come to find out the panels are pretreated with the clear coat before being installed so any cuts result in a raw edge.
You are doing exactly what nuvite recommends. Painting edges with nail polish. They say every year.
Wash with mild dish soap only.
Keep AS under cover.
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Old 03-12-2015, 09:38 PM   #10
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Have you found that the nail polish or the Nyalic or the pen from the AS store leave a noticeable film thickness on the face of the panels next to the edge you "paint"? I was trying some test pieces and usually saw a line of film on the face plate.
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Old 03-13-2015, 09:02 AM   #11
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"Painting" ALL the cut edges is not necessary...think rivets.

Filiform will not attack every cut edge.

Some owners treat with BEOSHIELD and CORROSION X.

A quality wax or PAINT SEALER on the entire trailer once a year has worked well for me.

The actual areas of corrosion I remove & seal

Bob
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Old 03-14-2015, 08:35 AM   #12
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On my 2007 I have more problems with the exposed edges than the rivets. Where the top panels overlap the lower panels is where the filliform is starting. I think the newer trailers have molding to cover this area.
Also the taillight housing and grab bar by the front door.

Can those be removed and polished?
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Old 03-14-2015, 09:22 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by printman View Post
On my 2007 I have more problems with the exposed edges than the rivets. Where the top panels overlap the lower panels is where the filliform is starting. I think the newer trailers have molding to cover this area.
Also the taillight housing and grab bar by the front door.

Can those be removed and polished?
Yes...

I used THIS METHOD on the Classic's battery door surrounds, (did not remove). I didn't 'high polish' as I wanted the brushed look to match the panels. Should work on the T-light bezels.

I also did the door handle, used a green Scotch pad and Griot's metal polish. Keep it waxed, no clear.


I painted the PEELING DOOR HINGES. (Did not remove)

Bob
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Old 03-14-2015, 06:25 PM   #14
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Looks nice Bob. I'll give it a try. Thanks
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Old 03-22-2015, 11:17 AM   #15
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TowAir and Printman, the posts below might be of some help. It's basically what I did/do. Once you have the numerous filiform areas in the open panels themselves however, I would not try to repair, just get the corrosion stopped with corrosion X and then reseal with a clear coat touch up. Wax as often as you can--at least once a year.

The sanding/re-spray painting with silver/and then re-sealing with clear coat is work. It does not match exactly either--but is very close and much better than large areas of filiform (photos pretty much show what you will have with repair). If you are going to get into the skin corrosion to that extent, and want more info on exactly the method, I'll be happy to give you more details.

Printman, you are correct on panel edges. I used Nyalic to reseal the cut panels. Once is good, then corrosion X and polish each year. Keep an eye out there and the rivets from now on.

On the cast pieces: tail light housings, door hinges, boarding handle, wheel well trim pieces, they are all coated with some inferior clear coat. You can sand them clean of the old and apply new clear with little effort. If you tape off your cast pieces well, you could sand them in place (that is what you will have to do with the hinges and handle). Use a good clear coat since you don't want to revisit this again. Product of choice, I use Nyalic, a clear polymer.

See post 1917 and 1918 below:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f142...31743-137.html

See post 1825 below:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f142...31743-131.html

The CORROSION manifesto is where all your answers are TowAir. Just have to pick through to find the helpful posts.

Good Luck
Howard
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Old 03-22-2015, 12:54 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Howard L. View Post
TowAir and Printman, the posts below might be of some help. It's basically what I did/do. Once you have the numerous filiform areas in the open panels themselves however, I would not try to repair, just get the corrosion stopped with corrosion X and then reseal with a clear coat touch up. Wax as often as you can--at least once a year.

The sanding/re-spray painting with silver/and then re-sealing with clear coat is work. It does not match exactly either--but is very close and much better than large areas of filiform (photos pretty much show what you will have with repair). If you are going to get into the skin corrosion to that extent, and want more info on exactly the method, I'll be happy to give you more details.

Printman, you are correct on panel edges. I used Nyalic to reseal the cut panels. Once is good, then corrosion X and polish each year. Keep an eye out there and the rivets from now on.

On the cast pieces: tail light housings, door hinges, boarding handle, wheel well trim pieces, they are all coated with some inferior clear coat. You can sand them clean of the old and apply new clear with little effort. If you tape off your cast pieces well, you could sand them in place (that is what you will have to do with the hinges and handle). Use a good clear coat since you don't want to revisit this again. Product of choice, I use Nyalic, a clear polymer.

See post 1917 and 1918 below:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f142...31743-137.html

See post 1825 below:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f142...31743-131.html

The CORROSION manifesto is where all your answers are TowAir. Just have to pick through to find the helpful posts.

Good Luck
Howard
Howard,

Here is a real world example of what I was trying to explain in my PM.

I just went to post 1917, clicked on the blue post number top right corner, then Click 'copy link, proceed as usual, and that takes you right to the post you want.


See it works just like this

Bob
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Old 03-22-2015, 04:59 PM   #17
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""" clicked on the blue post number top right corner, then Click 'copy link, proceed as usual, and that takes you right to the post you want."""

Ah, that's how you do it. Thanks.
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Old 03-25-2015, 06:51 PM   #18
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Here, I'll try again. Hopefully Robert has me on the right track for reposting. Post 1917, 1918, 1825 and 1831 (corrosion on new Airstreams):

http://www.airforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1450708

http://www.airforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1450718

http://www.airforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1411051

http://www.airforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1411311

Heavy corrosion on the cast pieces is going to be more difficult to sand, re-polish, re-clear coat and then come out looking OK. The silver paint shown above should be a good match for the cast pieces just as it is for the skin. With deep pits, you would either have to do a lot of sanding or, prime paint the craters, sand, then silver paint to get a smooth looking surface again.
Howard


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