I am new to this forum and have been thinking seriously about buying an airstream. Looked at them and fell in love years ago. I have been reading up about the filoform corrosion problem and quite frankly would be sick if I spent in excess of $50k on a travel trailer and had this happen. I have a Jayco trailer that I have had for 18 years and no problems. So my question is: are people still having problems with filoform corrosion on the 2012, 2013 and 2014 models? I will be using it a lot in Idaho and Montana where I understand what they use on the roads in the winter causes a problem.
Effects vary with use. My personal experience is that solid castings (wheels, door handles) tend to be affected sooner than skins.
And yet I don't know how you ultimately attain 100% freedom from filiform given the countless skin/rivet cuts on an Airstream. My Safari was built 8 years ago this month and I've had few skin issues -- I store under cover (minimizing ultraviolet) and am rarely near salt air. Sun & salt are factors for more problems in my opinion.
Live it. Enjoy it for yourself. Worry less about what you are leaving your children. Did I say live in it? We did a 5K+ June road trip to Cape Breton and back home. Never looked back.
__________________
2012 30' International Serenity
1947 Spartan Manor
2005 28' Safari LS - traded
1977 31' International Sovereign - sold
2012 Ford F250 Superduty Crewcab
Consolation...it can be controlled with a consistant program of cleaning and sealing. Our 2003 has shown few new outbreaks for several years now....but it never goes away.
Note....door handles, hinges, bezels, battery door surrounds are not filiform, mostly peeling from poor clearcoat application.
Bob
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
We had a small amount around the clearance lights. It was caused by AS using the wrong bezels at the time of manufacture. That is the more curved bezels were installed on the flatter surfaces. It was fixed under warranty. The corrosion dealt with, and bezels installed properly. I'm going to watch it like a hawk, but I don't think it will come back. No other filiform found.
Like Robert, I do have a few spots on handles and hinges that need clear coat cleaning and repair, but that is not a big issue.
You don't have it on the '64 for the same reason I don't have it on my old aluminum canoe. They don't have the clear coat of the new ones.
It will definitely happen on newer Airstreams, worsened by road salt and salty coastal air. But with regular inspections, maintenance and repair as needed, and anti-corrosion treatments, it is manageable.
We don't pull our Airstream on salty winter roadways, not only because of filiform but also corrosion of underbody and frame steel parts, some you can't see or wash. That would apply to any RV, but some are more expendable.
1968 22' Safari
2019 27' Tommy Bahama
Downers Grove
, Illinois
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 17
What year did they go to the new aluminum and clear coat? Is this also the same time that delineates when an Airstream can be polished to a mirror shine as I understand you cannot do that with the newer ones.
What year did they go to the new aluminum and clear coat? Is this also the same time that delineates when an Airstream can be polished to a mirror shine as I understand you cannot do that with the newer ones.
I like the new shiny finish, not mirror but no polishing either. Our new Airstream is now two years old, not a trace of corrosion anywhere.
I don't tow on winter roads and haven't camped on the coastal beach (yet). I treat all exterior rivets, cut panel edges, and fittings with CorrosionX couple times a year and the underside steel liberally with Boeshield T9. I wax the exterior with Glare polish annually. My first treatment was the day after I brought it home, and it only sat on the dealer lot for a week. It's never been stored under cover, on the road 14 of the 24 months we owned it. I inspect for damage and corrosion quarterly, including an interior inspection for leaks by probing the floor with a moisture detection meter. Easy to do, a couple of hours for everything plus a couple hours to wash/wax..
They do need inspections, maintenance, and repairs which will keep them in great shape for a lifetime of use.
" I will be using it a lot in Idaho and Montana where I understand what they use on the roads in the winter causes a problem."
If you're asking about salt on these roads after winter has passed into spring/summer/fall, there is no problem. It's been worn/washed away for all practical purposes.
I like the new shiny finish, not mirror but no polishing either. Our new Airstream is now two years old, not a trace of corrosion anywhere.
I don't tow on winter roads and haven't camped on the coastal beach (yet). I treat all exterior rivets, cut panel edges, and fittings with CorrosionX couple times a year and the underside steel liberally with Boeshield T9. I wax the exterior with Glare polish annually. My first treatment was the day after I brought it home, and it only sat on the dealer lot for a week. It's never been stored under cover, on the road 14 of the 24 months we owned it. I inspect for damage and corrosion quarterly, including an interior inspection for leaks by probing the floor with a moisture detection meter. Easy to do, a couple of hours for everything plus a couple hours to wash/wax..
They do need inspections, maintenance, and repairs which will keep them in great shape for a lifetime of use.
doug
When you apply the CorrosionX on exterior rivets, cut panel edges, and fittings, do you spray it on, wipe it on/wipe off excess, use a tiny brush or what? I currently use CorrosionX but I use the aerosol spray can but maybe the non aerosol container might be better.
When you apply the CorrosionX on exterior rivets, cut panel edges, and fittings, do you spray it on, wipe it on/wipe off excess, use a tiny brush or what? I currently use CorrosionX but I use the aerosol spray can but maybe the non aerosol container might be better.
I spray some on a rag and wipe the areas I want to protect. Where there is filiform I spray directly on that spot and then wipe it off. I do that spring and fall and the little bit of filiform I have hasn't progressed.
When you apply the CorrosionX on exterior rivets, cut panel edges, and fittings, do you spray it on, wipe it on/wipe off excess, use a tiny brush or what? I currently use CorrosionX but I use the aerosol spray can but maybe the non aerosol container might be better.
The first time I sprayed CorrosionX on and wiped up the excess. You get a lot more than you need that way, so I spray some in the lid and dap it on liberally with a Q-Tip for the rivers and cut edges, let it soak in a few minutes and wipe off. Spray and wipe the fittings.
Boeshield T9 is another good product that leaves a paraffin wax coating. Good protection but is hell to get off the panels if it dries on. So I use it on the underbody steel parts and it works good.
Lots of good polishes, I like the Glare polish from Airstream Store. It is easy to use and supposed to have a glass component to shield ultraviolet light. Very durable finish. Bug splatters come off really easy with this on the trailer so I also put it on the front plastic rock guard (sunshade), shiny and easy to clean up.
Most of our filiform appeared within the first 3 seasons.
Not all rivets and cut edges will be effected.
I have cleaned and sealed the entire trailer at every Spring get-ready.
Thankfully new outbreaks have been restricted mostly to chips in the clear.
A close inspection during the frequent washing's will reveal any new outbreaks.
It's important to find them before they spread. Cleaning all the corrosion from the panel and sealing with clearcoat has worked well for me.
Currently using KBS Diamond Clear.
13 Seasons...SFSG.
Bob
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
I had planned to do the Boeshield T9 on the underbody this weekend. I have used it on boat trailers in the past and it worked great. I have used CorrosionX for some years now but this is my first time using it in the Airstream.
Thanks to all of you for the great tips and information!
I have a theory about what causes filiform: dry airborne particulate that is allowed to cling to the exterior for any length of time.
Why is this my theory?
Because the FaN has been parked outside for 6 1/2 years in one of the wettest climates in North America. I have just washed the FaN and am in the process of Walbernizing. (BTW, the trailer was only washed once last year and has not been Walbernized for over a year.) I have not noticed any filiform corrosion whatsoever. So, any particulate is washed away by the rain before it can inflict any invasive damage? (During any dry spells, I rinse the trailer 1X/week).
Living in the country may also help; less air pollution/particulate.
This is just a theory, but if it will help any new trailer owners, i.e. make sure your trailer gets wet at least once/week, especially if you live in a more polluted urban area, what the heck?
__________________ easily distracted by shiny objects
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