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Old 06-04-2011, 05:49 PM   #15
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aluMATTER*|*Aluminium*|*Forms of Corrosion*|*Forms of Corrosion: Introduction
aluMATTER*|*Aluminium*|*Forms of Corrosion*|*Galvanic Corrosion

I don't believe the the filiform corrosion is caused by galvanic action, I believe it only turns up on a coated surface. If the coating is damaged during assembly, usually on a panel edge or rivet hole, there is a good chance it will start.

I do know it's very difficult to make disappear completely, Good luck to all who are trying.

On the upside...the first few years we had our trailer it seemed to be popping up everywhere, not really severe in our case, but a real PITA.

I did what I could at the time, and it HAS slowed drastically the last few years.
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Old 06-18-2011, 10:15 AM   #16
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Maybe there is hope for a more corrosion resistant alloy.....
Wonder how thin they can make it?


Mikhail Voevodin, General Director, VSMPO-AVISMA Corporation said: "I am confident that cooperation between VSMPO-AVISMA and Alcoa will result in significant accomplishments, yielding new solutions in the commercial transportation industry."

One result of the MoU may be the development of wide (up to 700 mm or 27.5 inches) and long (up to 26 meters or 85 feet) extrusions made of advanced aluminum alloys designed for passenger and freight cars, including next- generation high-speed rail for the Russian market. These aluminium products will increase the energy efficiency and reduce the carbon footprint of rail cars through light-weighting and the infinite recyclability of aluminum.

Alcoa and VSMPO-AVISMA will form working teams to coordinate the execution of projects resulting from this MoU. The MoU does not signal the establishment of a joint venture, partnership or any other formal business entity between the parties.
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Old 07-16-2011, 04:34 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87MH View Post
No "fix" to it that I know of other than to buff it out.



I have plans to install a couple of pounds of very active zinc as a sacrificial anode (like an anode designed to be installed on a big outboard motor) on the '78. I will probably put the anode(s) on the frame towards the rear.

It would not take much time to see the detriment of the sacrificial anode if it is really working - the amount of aluminum oxidation on your unit indicates that something bad is going on.

Is there anything else indicating that you may have a voltage leak to ground or any other stray currents eating at the battery, skin, or charging system?

What about the famous "rear end leak" any chance of moisture staying where it should not and creating a "lydon jar" (simple battery) effect using the aluminum skin as an anode?
Have you tried this yet? Sounds like an awesome preventative thing to do! I run commercial aluminum boats in salt water and the anodes help a great deal. I'm tempted to slap a small one on the steel frame and one on the outer skin just to do what they are named for... be sacrificial!
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Old 07-16-2011, 05:32 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by captmatt View Post
Have you tried this yet? Sounds like an awesome preventative thing to do! I run commercial aluminum boats in salt water and the anodes help a great deal. I'm tempted to slap a small one on the steel frame and one on the outer skin just to do what they are named for... be sacrificial!

I do believe this will only work if you plan to float or bury your Airstream.

Hard to camp then!!!

Galvanic anode - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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Old 08-07-2011, 01:19 AM   #19
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I had asked how to remove water spots off the skin of a 2008 Safari. It had sat by sprinklers for a couple of years in Nevada heat. I tried various compounds and rubbing but nothing worked. Finally I used distilled white vinegar. With modest rubbing, all of the spots came off. Thanks for the hint.
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Old 10-12-2011, 07:25 PM   #20
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yes

They do this in tidal locks, i've seen Mike Rowe down there replacing plates, but i'm geussing it aint gonna work on an Airstream as i'm geussing it all is localised, I must say i am suprised to find 6 year old trailers with this problem i would have thought sfter so long in the business Airtream would have found a fix of sorts!, thank god for airstream their trailers look cool eh!!!



Quote:
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Have you tried this yet? Sounds like an awesome preventative thing to do! I run commercial aluminum boats in salt water and the anodes help a great deal. I'm tempted to slap a small one on the steel frame and one on the outer skin just to do what they are named for... be sacrificial!
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Old 10-13-2011, 05:20 AM   #21
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Wink

I realize that AS's leak, but we don't usually submerge or bury them on purpose.

Bob
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Old 09-19-2013, 03:11 PM   #22
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When dealing with 2 or 3 dissimiliar metals you're always going to experience electolysis, the key word here is prevention. Don't wait until the surface pitting has started or the bolts under your airstream have started to rust. The process has already started. If after the manufacturer's preventive lacquer starts to dull, that is the time to start the prevention. Once pitting and bubbling occurs, nothing will bring it back. However, if you can catch it while its still an electrolysis as in a white powder or residue prior to the pitting process, INOX MX3- if sprayed on and allowed to penetrate of a minimum of 6-8 hours/longer if possible, WILL NEUTRALIZE THE OXIDIZATION and prevent it from returning with periodic re-applications (between 6-12 months). Apply and allow 6-8 hours of penetration and then wipe off excess and buff to an original finish. The INOX MX3 is a high grade, mineral oil based anti-corrosive/penetrant/lubricant/water displacement that also has the ability to STOP ELECTROLYSIS BETWEEN DISSIMILIAR METALS/NEUTRALIZE IT AT AN EARLY ENOUGH PHASE AND PREVENT IT FROM RETURNING. INOX also has a product MX4 that has a high grade LANOLIN suspended in the mixture that is ideal for the undercarriage to prevent corrosion or compromisation of the metals underneath.
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Old 09-19-2013, 03:27 PM   #23
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Filiform corrosion is not caused from the contact of dissimilar metals.

Bob
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Old 09-19-2013, 04:38 PM   #24
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I'm looking for advice on using stainless steel with aluminum.

I received a Fiamma Bike Rack from Airstream yesterday. Airstream says to use eight #10 stainless steel screws to attach the rack to the trailer body structure. There is no mention of what precautions to take to prevent a reaction between the stainless steel and the aluminum.
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Old 09-19-2013, 05:16 PM   #25
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I'm looking for advice on using stainless steel with aluminum.

I received a Fiamma Bike Rack from Airstream yesterday. Airstream says to use eight #10 stainless steel screws to attach the rack to the trailer body structure. There is no mention of what precautions to take to prevent a reaction between the stainless steel and the aluminum.
I would seal the screws with a quality polyurethane sealant.
You won't get much reaction both metals are pretty close to each other on the "chart"


I have used these with good results....

Bob
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Old 04-10-2014, 10:28 AM   #26
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Here is a paint that matches the Alcoa surface of the newer trailers pretty good. As mentioned above, don't tape off an area to paint, it will cause a hard edge. Cut out a template, I used poster board, slightly larger than your repair area. Place shims underneath to hold that template off the surface, say 1/8 to 1/4 the inch, then spray. It will allow paint to feather. Lightly (2000 grit) sand the spray job and then re clear coat spray. I use Nyalic polymer clear coat. It adheres to paint, original clear coat and is only ever slightly more shinny. You will not see the difference. It's not a perfect match, but closer than anything I've found.
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Old 04-13-2014, 11:09 PM   #27
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Thanks for the info @howard. You job looks great. Nice work.
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