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Details of painting Argosy with a roller.
Hello Argosy Owners;
Some of you have shown interest in following my project of roller painting my Argosy. The reason for another post is that during the process I have experimented a lot with technique and products used. While the roller and tipping of with brush did a great job, the tipping off was very time consuming. In the end, I have tried a SHUR-LINE Painter pad with unbelievable results, and this is what compels me to revise the last post.
When I have purchased my Argosy, I knew it had many issues which needed to be addressed. Galvanized end caps were badly pitted under the marker lights and some of the overlapped joints were showing some rust. Those areas were [spot sand blasted] using ducted hand held blaster with 110 PSI of compressed air. All rust was removed to the bare metal. Some small pits in the caps were sandblasted out as well. Bare spots were wiped with metal prep solution and coated with Marine Interlux # 353 Vinyl-Lux Primewash Base, which is an excellent two part Self Etching Metal Primer. Within an hour, Grey Marine Tex epoxy putty was applied to fill the low spots. The reason for the one hour timing of application is that you do not have to sand the primer before applying the putty. Since the primer is very thin, the sanding would remove the primer back to bare steel. Next day the putty was sanded smooth and flat with orbital sander.
Using an orbital DA with very light touch the entire end caps were sanded with a 220 grit sandpaper. Most of the primer on my unit was good, so I did not take it down to the bare metal. The roof area had some paint that was pitted and needed substantial sanding. Large, rivet free areas were sanded with 6” DA. Smaller spots were done with 3” DA. Area’s around the rivets were scuffed with Scotch Brite. All bare metal was coated with etching primer with a spray gun. One hour later first coat of Pettit # 3108 Off White Easypoxy was applied with a roller. In order to eliminate dry overlaps, the top section of the roof was tapped off just below the lap joints with blue 2” wide painters tape.
The first coat was thinned with 120/T10 Pettit thinner and I did not like the results. Entire painted surface was wet sanded before applying the second coat with 320 grit sandpaper. For the second paint coat I have used Penetrol. [Be sure it is for oil base paint not acrylic] Paint was cut by 15% and what a difference in ease of application and finish. Because of the heat factor to which the roof is exposed to, I have applied a third coat on the roof section after sanding the second coat.
The application procedure was as follows. Paint was applied with a Linzer Synthetic Lambskin ¼” nap roller. Covering about 4’ long area, on one half of the roof at the time, and re-rolling it dry once, ten minutes later. To smooth out the paint I have tipped it off immediately with a SHUR-LINE Painters Pad in one direction only. What a finish! The trick in smooth finish is the Penetrol which thins the paint and helps the paint to flow into a very smooth surface, and painters pad to level the paint. Altering from side to side every 4 feet, so that the paint does not dry up at any joints and make overlapping difficult. The next day, I have tapped of the end caps and followed the same procedure. Three coats were applied on end caps as well. Because of the roundness in end caps a smaller painter’s pad was used.
All glass was cleaned and tapped off leaving about 1/32 of exposed glass to provide a paint seal between the glass and glazing. Window and door gaskets were tapped off to prevent paint from sticking to gaskets. End caps were taped off on top joints but on newly painted side of the joints [be sure the paint has cured first]. Area above the beltline was tapped off on vertical overlaps into sections of each panel following clockwise direction. Beltline was also taped off. I have started in the rear panel applying paint in approximately 4 feet sections. I have re-rolled them dry and followed with the painters pad. Be sure to use a moderate and equal pressure on Painters Pad to spread the paint evenly. For large flat surfaces I have used a 7” Pad. Be sure to purchase couple of very small Painters Pads because you will need them around window frames and access doors.
Below the beltline I have used Pettit #3520 Grand Banks Beige cut with 15% Penetrol.
My beltline insert will be made from Formica cut into 1-1/16” strips. The rough backside will be painted with three coats of Pettit #3626 Burgundy Easypoxy as the Aluminum nameplates front and back of the trailer. Nameplates were glass beaded and recessed areas were painted burgundy color. The high outlines were sanded with a 600 grit paper and polished. The belly pan and trim will be burgundy as well.
The quantities of paint used were as follows. Because I did not stripped down to bare metal I have used two quarts of Primewash. Above beltline three coats on top plate and two coats on the sides took 1.5 gallons and 1.5 quarts of Penetrol. Sides below the beltline used up 3 quarts and 1 quart of Penetrol for two coats. My belly pan is last on the list to do, and I estimate that two quarts will do the job with less than a pint of Penetrol. So far I have used eight rollers and six Painters Pads not including three small detailing pads.
Retail pricing of paint is as follows;
2qts. of Primewash $ 65.98
1.5 gallon Pettit #3108 $170.08
3qts. Pettit #3520 $ 135.24
2qts. Pettit # 3626 $ 99.98
2qts of Penetrol $ 21.98
Total retail cost $ 493.26
My dealer cost was $295.95
Above does not include sandpaper tape rollers and other supplies and omitting enormous amount of time and sore aching arms. Despite it all I am pleased with the outcome knowing that my thorough job along with Marine epoxy finishes will provide me with many years of worry free service. Thanks, "Boatdoc"
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