CorrosionX vs. Boeshield T-9

[RFP]

So, I've read filiform corrosion threads 'till my eyes - and what's-left-of-my-brain - just glazed over. So, here I am, Airstream newbie looking for guidance.

I see that some swear by CorrosionX and others use Boeshield T-9 in their filiform fight.

Which is best? Why?

I really don't understand the rationale behind using either one. If filiform is corrosion between the aluminum and the clearcoat, how will a topical application of either of these products make any difference at all?

My 2014 has several (many?) squiggles, nothing too severe, but I would like very much for it not to progress.

I've got both products in my garage right now, but am in a quandary as to which to use... if either.

Thanks,

Rob

[SilverGate]

Filiform corrosion often starts where there is a break in the clear coat such as on the aluminum sheet edges, rivet holes, scratches, etc., where oxygen, salts, and water can penetrate. Boeshield T-9 and Corrosion X both have oil that penetrates this break and goes into the corrosion and cuts off the air contact with the corrosion and the corrosion turns from white to gray in color.

I like Boeshield T-9 because it also contains waxes and dries better while leaving a waxy, protective residue. I also have Corrosion X that I like to use in other areas where lubrication helps such as the stabilizers (and I don't mind it staying oily for a while).

Additional info: Filiform corrosion

[dkottum]

I like them both. I use CorrosionX on the shell panel edges, panel rivets (holes under them), and exterior fittings and wheels.. Boeshield T9 leaves a paraffin wax residue that can make a mess on the shell, but is more ideal for underbody steel such as axles, stabilizers, step and spare ire steel. Don't get it in your brake drums.

We apply it quarterly as part of an overall inspection of our Airstream. We also have taken a felt tip clear coat acrylic pen and run it along all the shell panel bare metal edges, several coats, to put a coating on the edges. Going on five years we have no corrosion anywhere on our Airstream.

Treatment frequency depends on location. Traveling only in the desert once a year is plenty. Near coastal or on northern road salt, much more often and before exposure. Wash the salt off as soon as possible.

We had some filiform on our previous Airstream, it was a two year old new unit sitting on a dealers lot near a northern winter-salted highway. Using these products did seem to halt the progression but we didn't have it long enough to be sure. Many have cleaned up the filiform carefully, applied the products, and painted the area. There are several methods in the forum.

I am not too concerned how they work, I believe they provide a barrier between the salt and the bare metal, and must be renewed from time to time. I do believe they work very well.

[dhroberts]

Originally Posted by dkottum

I like them both. I use CorrosionX on the shell panel edges, panel rivets (holes under them), and exterior fittings and wheels.. Boeshield T9 leaves a paraffin wax residue that can make a mess on the shell, but is more ideal for underbody steel such as axles, stabilizers, step and spare ire steel. Don't get it in your brake drums.

We apply it quarterly as part of an overall inspection of our Airstream. We also have taken a felt tip clear coat acrylic pen and run it along all the shell panel bare metal edges, several coats, to put a coating on the edges. Going on five years we have no corrosion anywhere on our Airstream.

Treatment frequency depends on location. Traveling only in the desert once a year is plenty. Near coastal or on northern road salt, much more often and before exposure. Wash the salt off as soon as possible.

We had some filiform on our previous Airstream, it was a two year old new unit sitting on a dealers lot near a northern winter-salted highway. Using these products did seem to halt the progression but we didn't have it long enough to be sure. Many have cleaned up the filiform carefully, applied the products, and painted the area. There are several methods in the forum.

I am not too concerned how they work, I believe they provide a barrier between the salt and the bare metal, and must be renewed from time to time. I do believe they work very well.

dkottum, thanks for your post re Corrosion-X vs Boeshield T-9. I'm going to follow your advice: Corrosion-X on the shell panel edges, panel rivets, exterior fittings and wheels; and Boeshield T9 for underbody steel. Question: How do you apply the Boeshield T-9 to the underside of the trailer? I assume that the aerosol cans would be difficult to use given spaying angles while under the coach. Do you buy Boeshield by the gallon? If 'yes', how do you spray it on? Will it flow through a normal sprayer? Thank you.

[beachbouy]

"If filiform is corrosion between the aluminum and the clearcoat, how will a topical application of either of these products make any difference at all?"

I have been researching the same... what I have learned would fill a shot glass (single malt scotch please).

I understand that rivet heads and seams are your entry points for moisture and those along with scratches are what should be coated... at least on the shell.

Am I correct?


Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

[lsbrodsky]

You can buy Boeshield Bicycle in little squeeze bottles.
Larry

[Barbieri]

I have noticed that filliform leaves a small channel in the aluminum. You have to clean that out before covering it up. Just paint over it won't help. I went to advanced auto parts and bought a small can of aircraft paint removal cleaner. In less than 5 minutes it bubbled the clear coat and I was able to wash it off. Be careful it's very toxic and the fumes will get you. You can probably use it on a complete AS to removed the clear coat. In my case the filliform was on the trailer side that receives no sun.