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OpenHigher · 05-23-2006, 03:40 PM

Hi everyone: OK, so here is what happened. Gardner used weed eater and thru a rock on the back panel. Clearcoat came off in small circle, about the size of a fingernail. Bad choices to repair so far. Tried a bit of fingernail clear polish, but the distinction between the damaged section and rest of finish is too obvious. So, A/S dealer gave me a bottle of recreational vehicle acrylic clearcoat spray, saying just stand about a foot and half away from trailer, and spray awide area including the area damaged. Place blue painter tape in a large square outside the spray area. Done, and what happened is the finish is a matt dull clear coat, not glossy, and further, the damage area is still quick to be seen, especially with the dull matt finish now contrasting with the rest of the panel and trailer.

What would be wrong with getting some silver rustoleum that matches the color of the Airstream and mixing a bit in a cap on placing with a fingernail brush on damaged area, and then glossy clearcoating the whole panel with the 12 oz. bottle from Airstream, obviously not using the dull clear coat sold by the dealer.

Any ideas or help appreciated.

Robert

dmac · 05-23-2006, 03:59 PM

These fixes are progressively making the problem larger. I think that silver paint will make it even worse. If the area you already sprayed is a bit dull compared to the rest of the trailer, just try some polishing compound or a very mild rubbing compund to shine it up. I would give up on getting a perfect match... that quest will make it worse.

**jcanavera** · 05-23-2006, 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OpenHigher

Hi everyone:What would be wrong with getting some silver rustoleum that matches the color of the Airstream and mixing a bit in a cap on placing with a fingernail brush on damaged area, and then glossy clearcoating the whole panel with the 12 oz. bottle from Airstream, obviously not using the dull clear coat sold by the dealer.

Any ideas or help appreciated.

Robert

Robert, the paint might help but I personally would be hesitant about clear coating an entire panel. My concern is that that clear coat may make an appreciable difference in the appearance of that panel and now you've really got a problem on your hands. I brushed on a little auto clear coat on my small spot up high on my Classic. Most folks wouldn't even see it due to its height, but obviously its not the quality of the original finish. On the good side we made it through the winter with no further deterioration, and the clear coat patch is still holding.

Jack

Cracker · 05-23-2006, 05:26 PM

Just curious - is it possible that Alcoa has made some changes in the latest coatings scenario - without saying anything? It seems like the initial coated panels - from about late 1999 to 2002, or thereabouts - didn't seem to have many problems. Maybe it's just a fluke! My 2000 Excella has its' share of minor nicks and dings - but they seem to be just that. No obvious indication of any coating failure. On the other hand, I'm not real finicky about the finish as long as the overall rig looks good!

OpenHigher · 05-23-2006, 06:30 PM

Thanks all for your input. I must say, if I had done nothing I would have been better off. The worst choice was to take the advice of the dealer and use the acrylic clear coal (not gloss or even low gloss) which they gave me free as it shows a dull finish not able to be polished with Walbernizing. So..

I'll give A/S a call tomorrow for further input.

Thanks all.

Robert

OpenHigher · 05-24-2006, 04:42 PM

Hello all: OK, so I called A/S and they advised a rubbing compound to take off the RV clearcoat acrylic which should not have been placed on the panel in the first place. Didn't work. Got ahold of Dick McIntyre (phone number in 6 or 7 posts back same thread),and he was absolutely great. No go on acetone, but gave explicit advice where to go in So. Cal. and what to buy. Turns out what he advised had a bit of oil base in the clearner, and Sherwin Williams had a better product. Bought a galleon, rubbed like the dickens, and took off all the old acrylic with no consequence to the coating. It shines just like new (except for the small circle and rock ding where the original damage occured. Now, back to Jackson Center. They said nothing can be done, except replacing the panel if you want it to be uniform. Said use the clear fingernail polish, go slow, stay within the damage area, and live with it.

So that is where I am at. May post a photo tomorrow, if any of you have any further suggestions.

I am just really glad she shines all over that panel now, with one small circle, dead center of course.

Robert

Inland RV Center, In · 05-24-2006, 04:48 PM

Quote:

So that is where I am at. May post a photo tomorrow, if any of you have any further suggestions.

I am just really glad she shines all over that panel now, with one small circle, dead center of course.

Robert

Robert.

Perhaps you need to take the "easy fix" approach, and not fix it at all.

But, you can easily hide it, with a small reflector. Install a duplicate reflector on the other side, to match.

Only, you will know that Airstream didn't build the trailer that way.

Andy

nwclassic · 05-25-2006, 09:44 AM

We have an '02 Classic with a few such spots. Would recommend contacting Dick McIntyre (888 912-9572) out in Oregon. He was immensely helpful in repairing our skin problem, advising on future problems and providing material to remedy them. He's getting on in years. Haven't spoken with him in three years now, so don't know if hes still available...but if he is, he is THE guy to talk to. He knows Airstreams stem to stern from way back when to now. Very knowlegeable, pleasant and helpful -- just what we needed when we saw that first bubble on our new finish. Cheers.
Brian and Terri Davern

OpenHigher · 06-04-2006, 03:11 PM

NWClassic: Actually, I had already contacted Dick per the advice of someone else on this very thread. Dick in Oregon was "stunning" like he called me back a week later to see how I had made out, and as a matter of fact I just called him back today. Final status, went to Sherwin Williams per his advice and picked up Sem Solve Product number 38371 (he actually advised a slightly different product but very close). Anyway, SemSolve removed everything and left the clear coat in its original condition. All that was left was my thumbnail spot, and I promptly said ok, I am covering that little beauty mark with a silver turtle. Done, (with a few more turtles) and they are all out of wind flow.

Happy campers now.

Great forum, and thanks again to Mr. McIntyre in Oregon (and all of you for your help)

Robert and Sherry

nwclassic · 06-05-2006, 01:19 AM

OpenHigher -- Glad to hear that Dick McIntyre is well and still available (I knew he'd be good help if you could contact him). Further, very glad to hear that your 'skin' problems are cleared up. Yes, the forum has lots of knowlegeable and helpful folks. Happy camping this summer.
Brian and Terri Davern

Tim A. · 06-12-2006, 02:03 PM

To return for a moment to spot touchup, our 2002 Bambi has a small spot where the Alcoa coating has peeled and diligent touchup of the spot with a little automotive clearcoat has prevented any corrosion from starting. The spot is next to the door handle and the coating was probably damaged a little when the hole for the handle was cut. I think getting the unprotected aluminum sealed up as soon as possible is critical to stopping further peeling.

In another thread about Gord's Polish, I mentioned working on an old aluminum rowboat. An effort to understand the problems related to painting that aluminum boat has led to my great appreciation of Alcoa's and Airstream's efforts to have, for aluminum, a transparent coating that holds up to anything. Aluminum just does not like to retain any coating except its own oxidation.

dmac · 06-12-2006, 04:13 PM

I don't know if the problem is with the aluminum, or the idea of clear coating bare metal.

Aluminum does accept paint. Aircraft are normally painted and they last a few years. But they use a process of alumiprep which etches the surface, alodyne which reacts with the surface giving a corrosion resistant surface, primer (greenish or yellowish, used to be zinc chromate, this may have changed), then color coat. These steps would not work for clear over shiny aluminum.

LBC Safari · 08-14-2006, 10:04 AM

We washed our 2003 Safari 25SS for the first time yesterday. We've owned it for about 1 1/2 months now. Saw some peeling of the clear coat beginning on the back end, both street and curb sides, up on the top, at the panel edges.

From all the posts, seems like an auto clear coat spray or paint will work the best. I want to prevent water and our air contaminents (So. CA air!) from making the problem worse and visable. Right now it's only seen when standing on the ladder. Thanks for the advice. Any other feedback would sure be appreciated!

**jcanavera** · 08-14-2006, 10:51 AM

I bought some automotive clear coat at Walmart. It's in one of those touch up bottles with a small brush attached to the cap. I had a small spot on the side up high close to the refrigerator vent. So far so good, we are on season 2 and the clear coat is still holding and the spot I touched up hasn't spread.

Jack