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Old 08-10-2005, 10:30 AM   #29
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Acf-50

Excellent discussion on using ACF-50. As a distributor of the product, we recommend the marine version called Corrosion Block. If you go to our website, you will see ACF-50 and Corrosion Block links on our index page. Click on the Corrosion Block link and scroll down until you see the link to using Corrosion Block on RVs. Lots of great suggestions to deal with corrosion on your vehicles. Website: http://www.corrosion-control.com
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Old 08-10-2005, 01:42 PM   #30
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This is nothing new, plasticote is crap. I'm dealing with the same prob on my 92 limited. Its time to see what evershield will do for this problem.
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Old 08-10-2005, 02:11 PM   #31
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The original theme of this thread was clearcoat failure on the newer units (the Alcoa finish...'99 and newer). The clearcoat failure on the 90's units is well covered in other threads.
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Old 08-17-2005, 07:05 PM   #32
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I am sorry to be just tuning in to this problem again. Our 02 classic has a very serious problem of this filiform corrosion. Airstream gave me that term. When our unit was still under warranty, Airstream said it was a maintenance problem. Now they tell me to SAND THE AREA AND EITHER CLEAR COAT IT OR POLISH WITH CLEAR NAIL POLISH. Well, we tried sanding with the finest grit paper we could find, now we have a scratch in this area. I did cover it with nail polish. It doesn't look like the unit we bought, though. This is our second Airstream, and we have been Airstream fans for many, many years. We are considering other brands because we feel totally let down by Airstream. Airstream/Thor is not standing behind their product.
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Old 08-18-2005, 11:53 AM   #33
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Jenturnr, It seems the slightest break in the clearcoat (ie: from a tiny rock chip) allows water and air to get underneath. Corrosion starts and makes "worm tracks" or filiform corrosion. It works its way across the aluminum. Since the corrosion is occuring underneath the clear it is difficult to fix. I think the best that you can do is to remove the overlying clear with sandpaper (or perhaps a q-tip of stripper?), clean off the corrosion with a little aluminum wool, and apply some clear on top. It will not look new, but you should be able to stop the progression. I hope someone else has a better answer!
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Old 08-24-2005, 12:03 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmac
Look through my earlier thread on my clearcoat peeling problem. I had several panels replaced at JC under warranty for corrosion. My conclusion is that if the peeling is minor you should NOT have the panel replaced. The replacement process is NOT as good as new. I like your idea of trying a small bottle of clear to seal the spot.
Well I bought some automotive clear coat and applied a small amount over the spot and overlapped it so it adhears to the surrounding good clear coat. We just got back from a 9 day trip up to Wisconsin and all is well at this point. I'm going to wash the trailer this weekend and re-examine the spot. Then a trip up to the dealer for his opinion.

To be honest, if the automotive clear coat can deal with this small spot, I'd be happy. I really am in a muddle whether to allow this to be "fixed". As noted by dmac, the cure may be worse that the original problem.

I'll report back once my dealer gets a chance to look this over. The question from me is whether this drop of clearcoat can stay attached.

Jack
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Old 08-24-2005, 12:43 AM   #35
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hi jack

so how were the crowds in door county? looks like the weather was good? if not warm?

as for touch up on the factory alcoa clearcoat, in a really small area (1-2mm) it may not matter what is used to cover and if getting it to adhere is anything like car paint, the defect would need to be enlarged, abraded, solvent cleaned and layered with paint over several days...i think clear fingernail polish may actually work better and can can be thinned easier for better fill and is more elastic when dry.

the factory does sell the clearcoat in a 12oz can, so one could mask around the defect, clean it with a solvent, pick away any loose edges and spray lightly with clearcoat and respray the next day. then remove the masking tape and when completely dry (one week) use a mild polish over the area to bring down the masked edges and follow this with wax or walbernize.

so for one defect this is 3 days of effort over a week total time one hour....but is less aggressive than a new panel and would use the makers clearcoat. i am going to try this approach on my 2-3 scratches.....

i purchased 2 cans last week.......turns out this spray clear coat is also what the factory uses as touch up finish on the oak or hickory woodwork! that's right they use the exterior clearcoat and not a wood specific product.....the clearcoat is a polyurethane that is much like wood varnish anyway....


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Old 08-24-2005, 10:30 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman
hi jack

so how were the crowds in door county? looks like the weather was good? if not warm?

as for touch up on the factory alcoa clearcoat, in a really small area (1-2mm) it may not matter what is used to cover and if getting it to adhere is anything like car paint, the defect would need to be enlarged, abraded, solvent cleaned and layered with paint over several days...i think clear fingernail polish may actually work better and can can be thinned easier for better fill and is more elastic when dry.
2air'
Well Door County was cool and I mean temperature wise....just what we were looking for after a blistering summer in STL. Interesting to note that the campground was only 25% occupied. Fuel at $2.79-$2.84 a gallon probably kept some folks away.

My spot is extremely small and up high on the streetside. Can't really be seen if you don't know its there. I went to WalMart and bought some spray clear coat. No brush on was in stock. I bought a little foam brush and sprayed a small amount in the cap of the can. Brushed it on overlapping the edges. I probably brush some more on after we visit the dealer's.

Jack
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Old 10-28-2005, 09:23 PM   #37
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I'm interested in buying one spray can (full or partial) of ACF-50 to coat some minor pitting on the door of my CCD. Anyone know of a source for just one can? Thanks for the help!
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Old 10-29-2005, 01:27 AM   #38
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rfield54 - Consider giving Dick McIntyre a call (888 912-9572). He repaired our 2002 Classic with similar problem (in 2003). He instructed me on the best repair technique and provided some material to use the next time (and there was a next time). He goes way back with the Airstream company and knows them inside and out.Good luck.
Brian
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Old 10-30-2005, 08:58 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbrownrr
I'm interested in buying one spray can (full or partial) of ACF-50 to coat some minor pitting on the door of my CCD. Anyone know of a source for just one can? Thanks for the help!
I have one can unopened. I'd be glad to sell it to you.

Jack
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Old 10-30-2005, 09:09 PM   #40
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Thanks Jack! I'll contact you so that we can settle up. Thanks again!
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Old 05-23-2006, 04:40 PM   #41
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Hi everyone: OK, so here is what happened. Gardner used weed eater and thru a rock on the back panel. Clearcoat came off in small circle, about the size of a fingernail. Bad choices to repair so far. Tried a bit of fingernail clear polish, but the distinction between the damaged section and rest of finish is too obvious. So, A/S dealer gave me a bottle of recreational vehicle acrylic clearcoat spray, saying just stand about a foot and half away from trailer, and spray awide area including the area damaged. Place blue painter tape in a large square outside the spray area. Done, and what happened is the finish is a matt dull clear coat, not glossy, and further, the damage area is still quick to be seen, especially with the dull matt finish now contrasting with the rest of the panel and trailer.

What would be wrong with getting some silver rustoleum that matches the color of the Airstream and mixing a bit in a cap on placing with a fingernail brush on damaged area, and then glossy clearcoating the whole panel with the 12 oz. bottle from Airstream, obviously not using the dull clear coat sold by the dealer.

Any ideas or help appreciated.

Robert
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Old 05-23-2006, 04:59 PM   #42
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These fixes are progressively making the problem larger. I think that silver paint will make it even worse. If the area you already sprayed is a bit dull compared to the rest of the trailer, just try some polishing compound or a very mild rubbing compund to shine it up. I would give up on getting a perfect match... that quest will make it worse.
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