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mswartz · 06-04-2005, 11:21 PM

The corrosion I see on my Bambi appears to be the form known as filiform corrosion. This happens when aluminum is exposed to chloride ions (water and chloride from road and seasalt) and a low oxygen environment (under the clearcoat).

For anyone interested, here are some links that may be of interest on the subject: (If you're doing a search on Aluminum, remember in many parts of the world the metal is spelled "aluminium" with "nium" on the end, not "num".)

From the Aluminium Federation, on aluminum filiform corrosion:
http://www.alfed.org.uk/templates/al...asp?PageId=112

From Center for Electrochemical Science and Engineering, University of Virginia, an in depth discussion of filiform corrosion with photographs:
http://www2.umist.ac.uk/corrosion/JC...r36/v2p36.html

From the Journal of Electrochemical Society, a technical paper entitled: "Investigation on Filiform Corrosion on Coated Aluminum..." with highly detailed description of the processes and pictures of the filiform corrosion:
http://www.electrochem.org/publicati...JES-B403_1.pdf

From Skanaluminium, a course module on aluminum corrosion:
http://www.alu-info.dk/Html/alulib/modul/A00110.htm

A German site on filfform corrosion and remediation on structural aluminum:
http://www.window.de/pdf/al01e.pdf

flsafari · 06-05-2005, 06:22 AM

As far as applying the ACF-50, I just shoot some into the cap on the spray can then use a q-tip soaked in the stuff to apply. The fogging mentioned on the can and website is for large are applications like inside aircraft wings etc. Your thread was really a great one on the subject.....and this stuff really seems to work. I used to fly helicopters in the Gulf of mexico and we used it A LOT. Oh yeah, I have been using it on the Safari for over a year and I don't see any evidence that it affects intact clearcoat in any way. While it won't "repair" any spots and make then shinny/new, it does stop the big C cold.
Jack

dmac · 06-05-2005, 10:42 AM

I have heard some good reports on ACF-50, although my personal experience with aircraft has not been so good. I consider ACF-50 similar to WD-40... both provide very short term corrosion prevention.

**jcanavera** · 08-07-2005, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flsafari

As far as applying the ACF-50, I just shoot some into the cap on the spray can then use a q-tip soaked in the stuff to apply. The fogging mentioned on the can and website is for large are applications like inside aircraft wings etc. Your thread was really a great one on the subject.....and this stuff really seems to work. I used to fly helicopters in the Gulf of mexico and we used it A LOT. Oh yeah, I have been using it on the Safari for over a year and I don't see any evidence that it affects intact clearcoat in any way. While it won't "repair" any spots and make then shinny/new, it does stop the big C cold.
Jack

Jack, I found a small spot where the clear coat has peeled up high on the street side of my classic. The spot is about the size of an asprin. Not sure what happened here since there seems to be no impact. I found it while I was Walbernizing today. At first I though it might be some glue but has I rubbed on it and picked at it, I realized this was the clear coat which had separated from the finish.

I just bought a can of ACF-50 and will put some on the spot. After I do this would there be any benefit of attempting to seal over this spot with a brush in automotive clear coat finish that is sold in the small touch up bottles at the auto parts store? I hoping that I can stop this dead in its tracks.

Jack

dmac · 08-07-2005, 08:55 PM

ACF50 is a bit like WD40 - not paintable. Do one or the other.

Silvertwinkie · 08-07-2005, 11:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcanavera

Jack, I found a small spot where the clear coat has peeled up high on the street side of my classic.

Jack

Jack, please say it isn't so. I've had some corrosion type issues on our Safari and though there is a new spot on the door, Airstream took care of the other issues while I was at the factory. All I can say Jack is that I wouldn't mess with it at all. You still have some warranty left, take it in pronto and have it dealt with. You don't want anything to come back to something you did. I would not mess with it...take it to Bill Thomas and start a warranty claim on this before it's too late and it's on your dime.

**jcanavera** · 08-09-2005, 02:17 PM

I talked to the service manager of my local dealer and from what I'm gathering, his body guy seems to be hesitant in wanting to tackle this. I got the distinct impression that they probably want me to go to Jackson Center for repair.

Jackson Center's reply to me is below:

"As a temporary fix, so it doesn't get any worse, I would clean and apply a small amount of clear coat over the spot. Then I would get it into Bill Thomas so he could strip and recoat the panel or make the appropriate repair."

I've talked again to the dealer and once I get back from a planned trip I will go up with the trailer and we will make a determination on the best course of action. My gut feeling is that we will end up at JC since I don't think the environment my dealer has is condusive to refinishing. There is no doubt that he can replace a panel but the suggested strip and recoat is probably beyond his technical prowness.

The service manager suggested using clear finger nail polish to seal the spot. I'm thinking about buying a $5 bottle of automotive clear coat.

Jack

dmac · 08-09-2005, 02:31 PM

Look through my earlier thread on my clearcoat peeling problem. I had several panels replaced at JC under warranty for corrosion. My conclusion is that if the peeling is minor you should NOT have the panel replaced. The replacement process is NOT as good as new. I like your idea of trying a small bottle of clear to seal the spot.

mdahlager · 08-10-2005, 09:30 AM

Excellent discussion on using ACF-50. As a distributor of the product, we recommend the marine version called Corrosion Block. If you go to our website, you will see ACF-50 and Corrosion Block links on our index page. Click on the Corrosion Block link and scroll down until you see the link to using Corrosion Block on RVs. Lots of great suggestions to deal with corrosion on your vehicles. Website: http://www.corrosion-control.com

0557 · 08-10-2005, 12:42 PM

This is nothing new, plasticote is crap. I'm dealing with the same prob on my 92 limited. Its time to see what evershield will do for this problem.

rfield54 · 08-10-2005, 01:11 PM

The original theme of this thread was clearcoat failure on the newer units (the Alcoa finish...'99 and newer). The clearcoat failure on the 90's units is well covered in other threads.

Jenturnr · 08-17-2005, 06:05 PM

I am sorry to be just tuning in to this problem again. Our 02 classic has a very serious problem of this filiform corrosion. Airstream gave me that term. When our unit was still under warranty, Airstream said it was a maintenance problem. Now they tell me to SAND THE AREA AND EITHER CLEAR COAT IT OR POLISH WITH CLEAR NAIL POLISH. Well, we tried sanding with the finest grit paper we could find, now we have a scratch in this area. I did cover it with nail polish. It doesn't look like the unit we bought, though. This is our second Airstream, and we have been Airstream fans for many, many years. We are considering other brands because we feel totally let down by Airstream. Airstream/Thor is not standing behind their product.

dmac · 08-18-2005, 10:53 AM

Jenturnr, It seems the slightest break in the clearcoat (ie: from a tiny rock chip) allows water and air to get underneath. Corrosion starts and makes "worm tracks" or filiform corrosion. It works its way across the aluminum. Since the corrosion is occuring underneath the clear it is difficult to fix. I think the best that you can do is to remove the overlying clear with sandpaper (or perhaps a q-tip of stripper?), clean off the corrosion with a little aluminum wool, and apply some clear on top. It will not look new, but you should be able to stop the progression. I hope someone else has a better answer!

**jcanavera** · 08-23-2005, 11:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmac

Look through my earlier thread on my clearcoat peeling problem. I had several panels replaced at JC under warranty for corrosion. My conclusion is that if the peeling is minor you should NOT have the panel replaced. The replacement process is NOT as good as new. I like your idea of trying a small bottle of clear to seal the spot.

Well I bought some automotive clear coat and applied a small amount over the spot and overlapped it so it adhears to the surrounding good clear coat. We just got back from a 9 day trip up to Wisconsin and all is well at this point. I'm going to wash the trailer this weekend and re-examine the spot. Then a trip up to the dealer for his opinion.

To be honest, if the automotive clear coat can deal with this small spot, I'd be happy. I really am in a muddle whether to allow this to be "fixed". As noted by dmac, the cure may be worse that the original problem.

I'll report back once my dealer gets a chance to look this over. The question from me is whether this drop of clearcoat can stay attached.

Jack

2airishuman · 08-23-2005, 11:43 PM

hi jack

so how were the crowds in door county? looks like the weather was good? if not warm?

as for touch up on the factory alcoa clearcoat, in a really small area (1-2mm) it may not matter what is used to cover and if getting it to adhere is anything like car paint, the defect would need to be enlarged, abraded, solvent cleaned and layered with paint over several days...i think clear fingernail polish may actually work better and can can be thinned easier for better fill and is more elastic when dry.

the factory does sell the clearcoat in a 12oz can, so one could mask around the defect, clean it with a solvent, pick away any loose edges and spray lightly with clearcoat and respray the next day. then remove the masking tape and when completely dry (one week) use a mild polish over the area to bring down the masked edges and follow this with wax or walbernize.

so for one defect this is 3 days of effort over a week total time one hour....but is less aggressive than a new panel and would use the makers clearcoat. i am going to try this approach on my 2-3 scratches.....

i purchased 2 cans last week.......turns out this spray clear coat is also what the factory uses as touch up finish on the oak or hickory woodwork! that's right they use the exterior clearcoat and not a wood specific product.....the clearcoat is a polyurethane that is much like wood varnish anyway....

cheers
2air'

**jcanavera** · 08-24-2005, 09:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2airishuman

hi jack

so how were the crowds in door county? looks like the weather was good? if not warm?

as for touch up on the factory alcoa clearcoat, in a really small area (1-2mm) it may not matter what is used to cover and if getting it to adhere is anything like car paint, the defect would need to be enlarged, abraded, solvent cleaned and layered with paint over several days...i think clear fingernail polish may actually work better and can can be thinned easier for better fill and is more elastic when dry.
2air'

Well Door County was cool and I mean temperature wise....just what we were looking for after a blistering summer in STL. Interesting to note that the campground was only 25% occupied. Fuel at $2.79-$2.84 a gallon probably kept some folks away.

My spot is extremely small and up high on the streetside. Can't really be seen if you don't know its there. I went to WalMart and bought some spray clear coat. No brush on was in stock. I bought a little foam brush and sprayed a small amount in the cap of the can. Brushed it on overlapping the edges. I probably brush some more on after we visit the dealer's.

Jack

wbrownrr · 10-28-2005, 08:23 PM

I'm interested in buying one spray can (full or partial) of ACF-50 to coat some minor pitting on the door of my CCD. Anyone know of a source for just one can? Thanks for the help!

nwclassic · 10-29-2005, 12:27 AM

rfield54 - Consider giving Dick McIntyre a call (888 912-9572). He repaired our 2002 Classic with similar problem (in 2003). He instructed me on the best repair technique and provided some material to use the next time (and there was a next time). He goes way back with the Airstream company and knows them inside and out.Good luck.
Brian

**jcanavera** · 10-30-2005, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wbrownrr

I'm interested in buying one spray can (full or partial) of ACF-50 to coat some minor pitting on the door of my CCD. Anyone know of a source for just one can? Thanks for the help!

I have one can unopened. I'd be glad to sell it to you.

Jack