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Old 06-03-2005, 02:56 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
Tinsel Loaf

There are only two types of plasticoat available from Airstream.

One is the spray cans.

The other is a two part mixture available in gallons only.

Unfortunately, all a person can do is use the spray can plasticoat material, and hope for the best.

Both, so we are told, are compatible with the new type coating.

Andy
Part numbers please!

As for the gallon size, what's to keep someone who has the proper equipment from buying the 2-part gallon size, mixing up what's needed, and spraying it themselves?
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Old 06-03-2005, 03:41 PM   #16
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2005, 22' CCD clearcoat pealing on door hinges and assist handle. Dealer polished hinges and re-clear coated them. They ignored the handle. It is still pealing and corroding. I think it is probably too difficult to remove the handle so they could polish it out. Typical dealer service; take it back and back again until the warranty runs out.
This is only one problem out of many. I just read another post where an owner of a 2004 model was thinking of trading it in because of poor quality, but voiced his his trepidation of getting "another problem unit. I think he refered to it as a " crap shoot". Ironic choice of words! Maybe this is Airstream's strategy to keep moving units. I notice a lot of folks have traded in 1 or 2 yr. old models ( in hopes of getting an acceptable one? ).
Dennis
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Old 06-03-2005, 05:44 PM   #17
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Problems with my 2003 were written up previously. It seems that the clear lifts where it has been disturbed near rivits, panel edges and curved segments. In addition rock hits and bug splats create small holes as entry points for water. This starts filiform corrosion (looks like worm tracks under the clear). The aluminum wheels have similar problems.

The factory might offer to replace a skin under warranty. However I believe it is likely that the problem will return. If you are particular enough to find the corrosion a problem, you will probably not be happy with the results of the fix - replacing a skin is major work and even the factory does a marginal job.

My suggestion is to Walbernize, avoid salt, store the trailer inside, and learn to live with it.
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Old 06-03-2005, 07:46 PM   #18
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The skin coating portects, looks good but is a necessary pain we must deal with. It could be worse, we could all have SOB's.
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Old 06-03-2005, 07:56 PM   #19
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corrosion control

Try using ACF-50 on the white cancer. Check out www.corrosion-control.com.
Much cheaper than replacing panels. It will stop the big C in it's tracks.

Jack
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Old 06-04-2005, 11:04 PM   #20
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I share your concern on the Bambi clearcoat problem. I've not had any evidence of peeling but plenty of corrosion sites since the unit was new. In 2002 I brought the Bambi to JC and they replaced, under warranty, four quarter panels and did a fine job. I was quite satisfied.

Since then, the corrosion has continued appearing in many locations, generally on the lower half of the trailer, showing up from under rivet heads, seam edges, under medallions, essentially it can appear anywhere there is a clearcoat break.

I suspect that living on the coast with constant salt air breezes, and the use of brine and salt in the winter where I travel are the biggest causes of my problems.

Last year I started an experiment at work to study the corrosion process, and used some scrap clearcoated aluminum with attached rivets that I got from an Airstream dealer. This was sprayed with seawater, rinsed with freshwater, and then exposed to salt air on a dock for six months.

The corrosion site spreads under the clearcoat and can progress fairly rapidly. The corrosion sites look like monochrome aerial photos of hilly regions, and the corrosion looks like the flooded river valleys... and one I observed on the test panel grew 1 cm in length in 4 months.

I've yet to decide how to stop and then remove the corrosion on my trailer. It is not a structural issue and will not likely be, but it is a serious cosmetic problem. On the test panel, I've carefully cut off the top clearcoat of one corroded area, scraped the corrosion off down to the clean metal, built up the area and then recoated the surface. That was three months ago and it has not failed yet, but a new corrosion site next to it has started and threatens the area I restored.

Based on that, I think flsafari's suggestion of ACF-50 is a good one. I've tried using that sprayed on a 6061-T4 aluminum frame which was clearcoated and intended for use on a buoy. The ACF-50 was applied after the structure was showing corrosion starting at corners and through-holes. Four months after application, the corrosion has not spread.

But I'm not sure how to apply ACF-50, which goes on as a fogged spray to all areas, on an Airstream. In my Bambi the ACF-50 may not easily get under the medallions and seams, but it could. It may be effective to intentionally break the clearcoat atop the corrosion site to allow the ACF-50 to enter, but I have not tried that.

Any experience with this product, or suggestions to other discussion sites where there is experience, would be appreciated.
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Old 06-05-2005, 12:21 AM   #21
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Aluminum Filiform corrosion on Airstream coated aluminum

The corrosion I see on my Bambi appears to be the form known as filiform corrosion. This happens when aluminum is exposed to chloride ions (water and chloride from road and seasalt) and a low oxygen environment (under the clearcoat).

For anyone interested, here are some links that may be of interest on the subject: (If you're doing a search on Aluminum, remember in many parts of the world the metal is spelled "aluminium" with "nium" on the end, not "num".)

From the Aluminium Federation, on aluminum filiform corrosion:
http://www.alfed.org.uk/templates/al...asp?PageId=112

From Center for Electrochemical Science and Engineering, University of Virginia, an in depth discussion of filiform corrosion with photographs:
http://www2.umist.ac.uk/corrosion/JC...r36/v2p36.html

From the Journal of Electrochemical Society, a technical paper entitled: "Investigation on Filiform Corrosion on Coated Aluminum..." with highly detailed description of the processes and pictures of the filiform corrosion:
http://www.electrochem.org/publicati...JES-B403_1.pdf

From Skanaluminium, a course module on aluminum corrosion:
http://www.alu-info.dk/Html/alulib/modul/A00110.htm

A German site on filfform corrosion and remediation on structural aluminum:
http://www.window.de/pdf/al01e.pdf
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Old 06-05-2005, 07:22 AM   #22
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ACF-50 application

As far as applying the ACF-50, I just shoot some into the cap on the spray can then use a q-tip soaked in the stuff to apply. The fogging mentioned on the can and website is for large are applications like inside aircraft wings etc. Your thread was really a great one on the subject.....and this stuff really seems to work. I used to fly helicopters in the Gulf of mexico and we used it A LOT. Oh yeah, I have been using it on the Safari for over a year and I don't see any evidence that it affects intact clearcoat in any way. While it won't "repair" any spots and make then shinny/new, it does stop the big C cold.
Jack
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Old 06-05-2005, 11:42 AM   #23
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I have heard some good reports on ACF-50, although my personal experience with aircraft has not been so good. I consider ACF-50 similar to WD-40... both provide very short term corrosion prevention.
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Old 08-07-2005, 09:09 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flsafari
As far as applying the ACF-50, I just shoot some into the cap on the spray can then use a q-tip soaked in the stuff to apply. The fogging mentioned on the can and website is for large are applications like inside aircraft wings etc. Your thread was really a great one on the subject.....and this stuff really seems to work. I used to fly helicopters in the Gulf of mexico and we used it A LOT. Oh yeah, I have been using it on the Safari for over a year and I don't see any evidence that it affects intact clearcoat in any way. While it won't "repair" any spots and make then shinny/new, it does stop the big C cold.
Jack
Jack, I found a small spot where the clear coat has peeled up high on the street side of my classic. The spot is about the size of an asprin. Not sure what happened here since there seems to be no impact. I found it while I was Walbernizing today. At first I though it might be some glue but has I rubbed on it and picked at it, I realized this was the clear coat which had separated from the finish.

I just bought a can of ACF-50 and will put some on the spot. After I do this would there be any benefit of attempting to seal over this spot with a brush in automotive clear coat finish that is sold in the small touch up bottles at the auto parts store? I hoping that I can stop this dead in its tracks.

Jack
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Old 08-07-2005, 09:55 PM   #25
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ACF50 is a bit like WD40 - not paintable. Do one or the other.
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Old 08-08-2005, 12:12 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcanavera
Jack, I found a small spot where the clear coat has peeled up high on the street side of my classic.

Jack
Jack, please say it isn't so. I've had some corrosion type issues on our Safari and though there is a new spot on the door, Airstream took care of the other issues while I was at the factory. All I can say Jack is that I wouldn't mess with it at all. You still have some warranty left, take it in pronto and have it dealt with. You don't want anything to come back to something you did. I would not mess with it...take it to Bill Thomas and start a warranty claim on this before it's too late and it's on your dime.
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Old 08-09-2005, 03:17 PM   #27
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I talked to the service manager of my local dealer and from what I'm gathering, his body guy seems to be hesitant in wanting to tackle this. I got the distinct impression that they probably want me to go to Jackson Center for repair.


Jackson Center's reply to me is below:

"As a temporary fix, so it doesn't get any worse, I would clean and apply a small amount of clear coat over the spot. Then I would get it into Bill Thomas so he could strip and recoat the panel or make the appropriate repair."


I've talked again to the dealer and once I get back from a planned trip I will go up with the trailer and we will make a determination on the best course of action. My gut feeling is that we will end up at JC since I don't think the environment my dealer has is condusive to refinishing. There is no doubt that he can replace a panel but the suggested strip and recoat is probably beyond his technical prowness.


The service manager suggested using clear finger nail polish to seal the spot. I'm thinking about buying a $5 bottle of automotive clear coat.


Jack
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Old 08-09-2005, 03:31 PM   #28
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Look through my earlier thread on my clearcoat peeling problem. I had several panels replaced at JC under warranty for corrosion. My conclusion is that if the peeling is minor you should NOT have the panel replaced. The replacement process is NOT as good as new. I like your idea of trying a small bottle of clear to seal the spot.
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