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Old 03-17-2007, 09:01 PM   #1
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Automotive paints; advice please

Is BLACK just BLACK? In other words, is Ford Black the same as Mini Cooper Black - or any other Black?


( I couldn't find a category for PAINTING)

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Old 03-17-2007, 09:17 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by SmokelessJoe
Is BLACK just BLACK? In other words, is Ford Black the same as Mini Cooper Black - or any other Black?


( I couldn't find a category for PAINTING)
I don't think all black paints are quite the same...and the reason I believe this is we had to have a Ford truck repainted after an accident and they ended up having to paint the entire truck to get one fender to match


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Old 03-17-2007, 09:30 PM   #3
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hi sergei...

black paints are as varied in colors as gray or white...

IF you want minicooper black you will need that specific mix.

my body shop guy says even with the exact color 'matching' black is harder than all colors

except metallics and pearlized colors.

so imagine metallic black...

all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.

we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
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Old 03-17-2007, 10:07 PM   #4
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My brother had his '06 Vette fender repair painted black and it didn't match when seen in the sun. They use code numbers to try to match as best as possible, and sometimes it works, but his didn't. They had to repaint with a different code #.
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Old 03-18-2007, 07:17 AM   #5
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Things to remember regarding paint.

1. All paint fades, especially BLACK!

2. Prep work is 3-4 times the amount of work that painting is. That is assuming no body work is required. The quality of the paint finish is directly proportional to the amount of prepwork you do.

3. Painting aluminum requires a different skill set. If you start with bare metal you have to etch in order to get tooth.

4. Proper care after you paint will insure a long lasting finish.
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Old 03-18-2007, 02:16 PM   #6
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Acid Etching

Acid etching an Airstream exterior, in preparation for a primer, "is not a good idea."

No amount of work, even steam cleaning the metal after etching, will completely remove all the acid.

That being the case, the acid in time, especially around the rivet heads, will "eat through" the paint. Takes a while to do it, but it will happen.

A much safer, far superior but tougher way to prep the surface, is to sand it with 120 to 150 grit sandpaper. Do not sand any of the rivet heads, until the rest of the trailer has been sanded. Then, and very carefully, lightly sand the rivet heads.

Deglossing, or scuffing won't get it. "Sanding where the original finish is absolutely gone," is the method that must be used.

This provides a surface that the primer will bond to extremely well.

When done properly, the paint will never chip, even from hail.

We have a motor home door that is absolutey crushed, yet the paint did not crack, chip or peel away.

Of course, the quality of the paint materials must be "first class."

Using this method, as we have for 40 years, totally and safely, avoids the acid issue.

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