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Old 11-20-2013, 08:04 PM   #57
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I do mine 60 then 110...

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Old 11-20-2013, 08:14 PM   #58
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Your lug nuts should still have the red marks from the factory to see if they have backed off- unless you have already scrubbed them off...
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Old 11-20-2013, 08:50 PM   #59
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Nice discussion, folks. Since our '73 lives outside and the clearcoat is having issues on the top and back, I'm going to have try this stuff and see if I can clean it up some.

After all, the shiniest trailers get all the attention at the campground.

Thanks again everybody.

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Old 11-20-2013, 09:24 PM   #60
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Geek I don't know that's why I asked as I get closer to purchase. Read about T-9 and CorrosionX on the forums. But never exactly where folks are using T-9 on the bottom? Coating the axles, the entire bottom, jacks, anything not to coat???
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Old 11-20-2013, 09:51 PM   #61
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I use T-9 on the underbody steel because it leaves a paraffin wax coating. Am careful to keep it away from the inside of the brakes, but spray the axles and their mounting equipment well. The stabilizers need it mostly where they mount to the frame because that is an area prone to damaging rust, and it acts as a lube for the jacks. Spray the step hardware and the spare tire support brackets. Anything steel under there (except brakes), spray it.

If there is a downside to this treatment, it can collect dust. I think dusty steel is better than rusty steel.
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Old 11-20-2013, 10:05 PM   #62
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Thanks Doug
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Old 11-21-2013, 12:02 AM   #63
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yes, I avoided spraying the brakes....but on the whole...most everything down there can get nailed by the spray I think with no deleterious outcomes...I think...I did not spray in toward the wheels for that reason...but I did spray those support thingie madgiggies - anything that had a bond, a seam, etc etc...its all coated...I sprayed the PP hitch too...it will make it a tad messy - I got a pair of gloves...

The spray pattern of that stuff made it hard to apply for me...wish it sprayed wider...

I still missed some of the very center - probably only a fraction of another can...I will finish it off....
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Old 11-21-2013, 12:04 AM   #64
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yeah, I sprayed the steps too..but not the surfaces where you walk or the front edge or middle edge where you grab...the parts where they articulate I most certainly did

Sprayed the crap out of the stabilizer jacks....(well, that is to say I evenly or uniformly coated all of their surfaces)
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Old 11-21-2013, 12:14 AM   #65
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Spraying the crap out of the stabilizers will ensure there's enough, kind of my approach.

Just read a thread on a rusted/cracked A frame. On my Airstream, under the hitch coupler the A frame is open to the inside of the steel channel. Tomorrow I'm going to spray the crap out of the inside of the A frame as well.
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Old 11-21-2013, 12:26 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moflash View Post
Most paint sealants are silicon based products.(Yes doug silicon does displace water)But Corrosion X is still a good thing to apply regularly also.Silicon is considered a polymer so most companies advertise their products a polymer or micro polymer because it sounds cooler than silicon and sells more product.There are alot of decent products out there Mcguires,Griots Etc.
A good quality wax will last a couple of months paint sealant 6-8 mos.
You can wax over paint sealant.You can also use paint sealant over wax as long as its been 45-60 days since you waxed the last time.The big mistake that people make is washing their car or Airstream with dish washing soap.This will remove most of the wax or paint sealant that is on the surface because of the grease dissolving ingrediants.It is really to harsh for todays clear coated finishes.A good quality automobile liquid soap is the preference.A good grade of Carnuba will have a better shine then a paint sealant but does not last as long.How you put either on is up to you wipe on wipe off or wipe on buff off.The end result will be the same.If you are not experienced with buffer you should shy away from buffing.
Not all sealants contain silicon or teflon. Glare doesn't, nor do they sell natural waxes. They specifically state not to apply wax (or any other product) over or under their polish (sealant, synthetic wax, whatever), may even dull the polish.

Check your favorite wax, sealant, polish, whatever to ensure compatibility with other products.

Each company seems to sell their own wash soap. I would certainly agree to use them rather than dish/laundry soap, detergent, whatever.
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Old 11-21-2013, 08:27 AM   #67
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I used the griot's car wash...I had in the past bought really cheap car wash for the times I would wash my previous vehicles....

One thing I noticed right off the bat with this stuff was that it produced nice suds - but when I went to rinse, it rinsed very easily...I recall with my previous soaps that around say windows or trim, you would just keeps spraying and spraying and spraying...stuff just floated right off with a single pass of the hose..

I want to try the one step sealant on my TV and cars perhaps soon.
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Old 11-21-2013, 09:29 AM   #68
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Glare contains glass plexin (silicon)

Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
Not all sealants contain silicon or teflon. Glare doesn't, nor do they sell natural waxes. They specifically state not to apply wax (or any other product) over or under their polish (sealant, synthetic wax, whatever), may even dull the polish.

Check your favorite wax, sealant, polish, whatever to ensure compatibility with other products.

Each company seems to sell their own wash soap. I would certainly agree to use them rather than dish/laundry soap, detergent, whatever.
doug read closely
e have carried out research into the most popular paint protection systems in Australia including the paint protection containing PTFE and a paint protection containing silicate, also called glass plexin. What we found is, they guarantee for up to 5 or 7 years against UV rays, bird droppings, insects etc.

But do they really?
Click on the picture to see how effective paint protection from a well known car dealer in Brisbane is. We just wiped the part of the bonnet with diluted “all purpose cleaner” and as you can see where the cleaner was applied (front of the bonnet) no paint protection remains in place. The main disadvantage of PTFE and silicate (glass plexin) based paint protection systems is that they contain silicone. The silicone’s weakness is to degrade upon exposure to UV rays, alkaline road grime, bird droppings, aggressive washing detergents and industrial pollutants like heavy deposits of acid rain.


What does this mean for your car?

Both types of paint protection systems are not truly able to protect your car against bird droppings and insects. Without regular “top ups” of the active protective coat using a specific car wash shampoo like Glare carwash shampoo (contains so called glass-plexin about $100 a litre) or waterless car wash their paint protection will wear off in less than a year.
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Old 11-21-2013, 09:58 AM   #69
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Moflash, I can search the internet and find the same crap about any product offered for anything. I am not pushing any product, but using what works extremely well for me.

Use what you want, someone will always trash it. It's part of the internet culture.
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Old 11-21-2013, 10:03 AM   #70
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Y'all quit arguing and let's get 'Geek over here to detail my trailer!
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