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Old 11-19-2013, 05:11 PM   #43
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Best way to clean the polish pad after using the paint sealant?? I tried some dawn and warm water - not cutting it I think....
I was told by someone who does this for a living (detailing cars) to use a clean micro fiber cloth and hold it (folded up) against the pad as it spins. He recommended doing this after each section is polished. I use this technique and it works fine.

Good luck.

John S.
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Old 11-19-2013, 05:25 PM   #44
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I'll give it a....whirl....yeah I said that
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Old 11-20-2013, 08:49 AM   #45
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Best way to clean the polish pad after using the paint sealant?? I tried some dawn and warm water - not cutting it I think....
I'm lucky I guess, I inherited my own washer & dryer after the DW's upgrade.

I rinse the pad's in warm water, (full wash cycle), & wash MF cloths separately, Arm & Hammer soap, hang dry.
Prior, to the machines I just rinsed really well and stored in zip-lock bags after dry. Spray water on pad before next use.
Most important....never cross-use. If you try something new use a different color pad, or as I did, label with a magic marker on the white backing of a new red pad.
Seven years, still using my original red pads. (3 still unopened)


Do not seal a 'dirty' trailer....

I wouldn't 'clean' the pad until I was finished...the point of using a foam pad is how well it holds the product, cleaning while doing just wastes product IMO.
16 OZ of Griot's Sealant has done 3-4 applications on our 25....use sparingly.

Bob
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Old 11-20-2013, 10:13 AM   #46
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Best way to clean the polish pad after using the paint sealant?? I tried some dawn and warm water - not cutting it I think....
A way to give Griot's more money.
Griot's Garage Video: Micro Fiber & Foam Pad Cleaner
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Old 11-20-2013, 11:14 AM   #47
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It is my understanding sealants are a pure synthetic product, and the wax formulas contain natural wax. There is no point in applying wax over pure synthetic sealant, unless perhaps you feel it gives even more shine.

The problem may be once a wax formula is put on, it prevents a future application of synthetic sealant from "bonding" to the clear coat.

And sealant may be too good of a description for the synthetic products. Airstreams of the last 15 years are produced by taking pre-coated panels from Alcoa Aluminum, cutting them to shape the shell, then punching 1500 rivet holes to assembly them.

These cut or punched holes are not protected by clear coat paint. Wax or sealant is not formulated to protect them for long either, if at all.

Everyone will have their favorite product, and it will change from time to time. Airstream is presently recommending Glare synthetic sealant and we use it. They specifically state any other product must be completely removed before application, and other products may state the same, because of the need to "bond" to the clear coat paint.

One application of sealant (Glare) per year seems to do it, windows, plastics, window rock guard included. Microfiber cloths work great to apply and polish. We follow with a corrosion preventive, CorrosionX for us, on the unpolished edges and rivets, as well as fittings such as hinges and light assemblies and reapply corrosion protection at least quarterly, depending on what environment the Airstream has been exposed to.

Wax over sealant may be a waste of time, and may be counterproductive. That's fodder for debate, but not intended. I would recommend adding a corrosion preventive product for the unpainted edges to your protection plan.

Most good ($) products will do a good job, keep it simple and on a regular schedule to ensure good Airstream protection. Ours is now at 2 1/2 years with no corrosion anywhere. Our previous Airstream was two years old on dealers lot unprotected until we bought it, and it already had considerable corrosion.
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Old 11-20-2013, 11:34 AM   #48
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I only have plans for paint sealer - no wax - corrosion x to be applied soon- last to
E I tried to order from amazon they were out of stock

I cleaned the trailer - hand dried - then applied sealant
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Old 11-20-2013, 01:38 PM   #49
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Old 11-20-2013, 03:50 PM   #50
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Most paint sealants are silicon based products.(Yes doug silicon does displace water)But Corrosion X is still a good thing to apply regularly also.Silicon is considered a polymer so most companies advertise their products a polymer or micro polymer because it sounds cooler than silicon and sells more product.There are alot of decent products out there Mcguires,Griots Etc.
A good quality wax will last a couple of months paint sealant 6-8 mos.
You can wax over paint sealant.You can also use paint sealant over wax as long as its been 45-60 days since you waxed the last time.The big mistake that people make is washing their car or Airstream with dish washing soap.This will remove most of the wax or paint sealant that is on the surface because of the grease dissolving ingrediants.It is really to harsh for todays clear coated finishes.A good quality automobile liquid soap is the preference.A good grade of Carnuba will have a better shine then a paint sealant but does not last as long.How you put either on is up to you wipe on wipe off or wipe on buff off.The end result will be the same.If you are not experienced with buffer you should shy away from buffing.
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Old 11-20-2013, 04:31 PM   #51
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......snip...."The big mistake that people make is washing their car or Airstream with dish washing soap.This will remove most of the wax or paint sealant that is on the surface because of the grease dissolving ingredients."

.... whacked that rivet Mo....

This Spring is the odd year, it will be wash, clay bar, seal, touch-up.. with spray wax and or detail spray.
Even years, drop the clay bar.
The sealer I use is compatible with all wax made by the same mfg.

And NO dish soap...

Bob
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Old 11-20-2013, 05:23 PM   #52
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I just today finished - washed yesterday - finished half the sealant - applied with random orbital in setting 2 - did small areas by hand

Applied boeshield T9 on underbelly - corrosion x is on order

Oh and washed and lubed up the wheels with a griots product - took a tiny amount out of that 16 oz bottle
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Old 11-20-2013, 05:45 PM   #53
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I just today finished - washed yesterday - finished half the sealant - applied with random orbital in setting 2 - did small areas by hand

Applied boeshield T9 on underbelly - corrosion x is on order

Oh and washed and lubed up the wheels with a griots product - took a tiny amount out of that 16 oz bottle

Looks good! Dont forget to re-torque your lugnuts.
It is always a good idea on a new vehicle or trailer.
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Old 11-20-2013, 05:49 PM   #54
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Old 11-20-2013, 05:51 PM   #55
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When you do the T-9 what specifically are you applying it to on the bottom of the trailer?
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Old 11-20-2013, 07:50 PM   #56
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I actually do need to recheck torque - my dad just came through and gave me a torque wrench - remind me of the proper torque?

I applied the t9 liberally underneath - not so much on dead center regions of aluminum - but on seems - I put it on stabilizer jacks.

Is there something down there I should not apply it to?
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