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Old 06-15-2018, 12:17 AM   #41
4 Rivet Member
 
1973 31' Sovereign
1978 Argosy 30
1985 31' Excella
Sacramento , California
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 323
Quote:
Originally Posted by joanbob27 View Post
What do you think about coating the screw and hole with silicone sealant before and after driving the screw in ? Moisture would be kept at bay, but I'm not sure how long that would last.
Watch out some silicone sealants have chemicals that will attack alu... they use urea in the mix... and it is deadly crossive for alu... their are other silicon sealants that are made for alu.. and don't have that urea smell... nor will attack alu... they are usually sold for aircraft repairs and sealants... by dow and other manufactures...

Check the products out on the web that are sold for general aircraft repair.. like aircraft spruce and other suppliers... if in doubt.. call them and get the technical specs... so to keep the corrosive effect of the alu sheet and material for as long as you can...

As to the steel screw.. yep that is what happens... the steel will give up and go away first... instead of the alu hole it came out of... but, remember the steel material that rusted.. is still in their... and can stain the alu metal...etc...

Keeping the moisture out of the joints has been a issue all along.. and one way to perserve the alu.. is to use a process called alodine treatment... here the liquid material will penatrate where moisture would also.. but it then does a cromatic conversion.. that protect the alu from corrosion for a period of time... and can be re-applied once it depleats...

I know of only one company that used it on their trailers.. and that was avion... as they never had to clear coat or do anything further to their metals... for years.. Airstream never got into doing it for theirs.. too cheap.. yet to converson coat or dip the hull in a bath... only cost pennies... and after it drys... like water... if you clear coat it... or paint it.. we used to say its like wearing a belt with suspenders... it last for 20 years or more...
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Old 06-15-2018, 02:37 AM   #42
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1999 30' Excella 1000
small town , Maryland
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 802
Thanks for the posts everyone. If I need a screw...I know where to look. I use to vacuum behind the walls before installing insulation. I must be weird... but always busy. I always treated everyone's house as if it were mine during remodel.
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Old 06-15-2018, 04:52 AM   #43
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Currently Looking...
Lebanon , Tennessee
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 250
GM Airstream, Thank you for very informative posts.

Also SS screws will gall and bind if screwed in too quickly. So slow and easy is best.
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Old 06-15-2018, 01:54 PM   #44
2 Rivet Member
 
2018 27' Globetrotter
Paradise Valley , Arizona
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 57
Cheap ss screws will stick to a magnet. Use the ones that don't. Ss is much stronger than aluminum but more brittle. Neither would be an issue given the loading the screw/sheeting interface sees. The thing about cad plated screws is that when driving them in all probability you will scratch the plating and render it ineffective. So go with the 18-8 or 316 ss screws and rest easy.
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Old 02-07-2019, 02:52 PM   #45
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2014 25' Flying Cloud
Hampton , Virginia
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by GMFL View Post
I think Airstream thinks like a CAT. Now let me explain...

Anything that Airstream can cover up does not exists... like a cat covering up its crap.....examples, all the trash, wire trimmings, rat nested wiring harnesses, aluminum trimmings, pop rivet stems, and unused screws, under all the cabinets and furnishings inside our trailers. Because you cannot see them Airstream thinks they do not exists.



If any of you followed my post on swapping my freshwater tank due to a leak you will recall that that was caused by a pop rivet in the fresh water pan which wore a hole in my tank. This problem was caused solely by Airstream‘s lack of cleaning up after their work. Had the pop rivet not been in the freshwater tank pan I would have not had the leak. This repair cost me $158 for a new tank because I did the work myself, for those who could not do the work themselves who knows what it would’ve cost.



My latest example comes today I recently purchased new chrome rub rail and beltline Tram to replace my peeling trai my latest example comes today I recently purchased new chrome rub rail and beltline trim to replace my peeling trim. upon removing the old trim I found Airstream used standard metal screws to attach the rub rail to the Airstream. My trailer is stored undercover unexposed to Rain except while camping, I do not live in Florida or close to the ocean but these screws where heavily rusted and should not have been used for this “outside” application.

Again Airstreams thought process is if it’s covered up it doesn’t matter. The part that boggles my mind the most is that not 12 inches away from where the screws are used in the ends of the wheel well trim there are stainless steel screws used,

The part that boggles my mind the most is that not 12 inches away from where the screws are used in the ends of the wheel well trim there are stainless steel screws used, “Because you can see them!” Dumb....



I removed the old screws one at a time cleaned the area with the stainless steel wire brush applied some Sika flex to the hole and screw tip and replaced the screws with matching 1” stainless steel pan head screws.

Total cost of the repair $4.40



Last thing. If anybody ever ask you why your Airstream is round you can tell them....

Because Airstream cut all the corners they could building it. [emoji38]



See pictures below.
While at the factory during the tour I pointed out that the screws were not as, they assured me that they were SS. Weres the quality we pay for, buyer be wary.

Chuck
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